Wish me luck..... 11 Seconds Club
#81
You are getting there! You are lucky to have a track so close by.
Maybe this can help, I'm not saying you don't know how to launch because obviously you've been doing this. But I was taught the way to get a consistent launch is like this:
Front brake on hard
Clutch about halfway engaged
Throttle up to 3/4 of redline RPMs
Time to go: Twist throttle and feather clutch keeping RPMs about the same until clutch is all the way out.
It sounds like clutch abuse but clutches are tough.
Good luck, stay out of the water and don't overheat your tire...
Maybe this can help, I'm not saying you don't know how to launch because obviously you've been doing this. But I was taught the way to get a consistent launch is like this:
Front brake on hard
Clutch about halfway engaged
Throttle up to 3/4 of redline RPMs
Time to go: Twist throttle and feather clutch keeping RPMs about the same until clutch is all the way out.
It sounds like clutch abuse but clutches are tough.
Good luck, stay out of the water and don't overheat your tire...
Last edited by Joe12RK; 01-30-2017 at 01:54 PM.
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C.H.L. (01-30-2017)
#83
Great thread. I'm betting you will hit that 11 second mark before long. Years ago when I used to do some bracket racing on street tires ( cars and bikes) I learned to not do big burn outs. Too much heat on harder compound street tires makes them greasy. I would think it would be the same on the average bike tire as well, unless they are a soft compound. I just spun the tires enough to clean them off and staged. On the bike I did the same as Joe12Rk mentioned slipping the clutch on launch. It worked for me. Those days were a blast.
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C.H.L. (01-31-2017)
#85
#86
I think the optimal shift point is just a few hundred rpm beyond your max hp, depending on your rpm drop between gears. have a look at your dyno sheet, it will give you a good idea where you should be grabbing gears. might have to bump your rev limiter up a bit if it's set at 6K. would be pretty cool for a bike with apes to break into the 11's, get er done man!
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C.H.L. (02-08-2017)
#87
No need to cut a good light. The OP's main objective here is to claim an 11 sec. time slip. He could care less about who is in the opposite lane. The clock does not start when the light turns green, it starts when he trips the light beam. But you are right, the OP could benefit from a good tach and light. I would also mess with tire pressure and weight.
Maybe buy an extra rear wheel with a race tire on it and just swap it out for track night. I am almost positive a sticky race tire with low pressure will get you down into the 11's. Just my $.02
Keep at it OP! you will get it.
Last edited by R.Canales; 02-07-2017 at 09:11 PM.
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C.H.L. (02-08-2017)
#89
No need to cut a good light. The OP's main objective here is to claim an 11 sec. time slip. He could care less about who is in the opposite lane. The clock does not start when the light turns green, it starts when he trips the light beam. But you are right, the OP could benefit from a good tach and light. I would also mess with tire pressure and weight.
Maybe buy an extra rear wheel with a race tire on it and just swap it out for track night. I am almost positive a sticky race tire with low pressure will get you down into the 11's. Just my $.02
Keep at it OP! you will get it.
Maybe buy an extra rear wheel with a race tire on it and just swap it out for track night. I am almost positive a sticky race tire with low pressure will get you down into the 11's. Just my $.02
Keep at it OP! you will get it.
#90