On my 06RG the spring container came apart and the spring would come out of the side of the can and smack on the primary cover.





Didn't have to pull the clutch, chain or comp sprocket.
Just installed a new spring assembly and all was good.

 

Flux capacitor on order, should be here tomorrow.

Guess I'll know tomorrow. Gonna pull it apart again and have a look see. If I don't see anything on the jack shaft or ring gear, I'll pull the comp and see what it looks like.

 

Ok, here is where I'm at.

Jack shaft and ring gear looks fine. No chips or worn edges that I see. (sorry for the crappy pics)




Took the outer part of the comp off. It looks fine to, no signs of grinding at all.







HOWEVER, The comp nut came off very easy, no where near the 160lbs torque that it is supposed to be. I was able to get it off with a standard 1/2" drive ratchet. I suppose this could have been the issue but, wouldn't I see wear marks on the comp? Thoughts

 

Not sure where you would be looking for wear marks, The problem with that comp was that the spring was too weak for the beefier engines, the factory 96 was right at the threshold. Some comps could handle the forces generated, other "identical" comps couldn't. My theory is there were minor variations in spring strength. With a weak spring forcing the pieces together, actual wear was at a minimum. A few have pulled their comps and found that the splined drive piece in the hub had the splines damaged, actually shifted a few degrees from the repeated slamming against the limit of compensator movement. You will see very little wear on the cam interface area, wear was not the problem, it was just too weak for the job and would slam against the stops making all that noise.

 

If you see no damage/excessive wear, the sound started recently, and the comp nut came off that easily.... I'd get a new comp nut, torque it up and see what happens. Like people have mentioned, the pre-'07ish comps were trouble free. There were issues with the compensating nut coming loose. The bulk of compensator problems you hear about are from the redesign which was around '07-'09...

Also, I hope you are aware of Service Bulletin M-1170, dated May 27,2005. It mentions the new compensating sprocket torque sequence. It is different than the torque spec mentioned in the service manuals.

The old spec was 150-165 ft-lbs. Basically the new spec is to torque the sprocket nut to 75 ft-lbs, then tighten the nut an additional 45° to 50° (50° MAXIMUM)

I hate to confuse the issue, but information is power. According to TT122, 10/29/2003, there CAN BE a clamp load issue. Apparently in '03, when they switched from the tapered Timken bearing to the roller bearing on the sprocket side of the crank, it could lead to less than full clamping force on the compensator stack. This would cause noise from the primary.... Per TT122, it is fixed by adding a shim. Because of this pending issue, some techs just trim the base of a new compensator bolt .030", to avoid any clamping issues.... Again, this is just for your information...

Here is the main portion of TT122:

October 29, 2003 - TT122

Engine Noise and Vibration Complaints

Vibration complaints? Engine noise? Are you sure that it is the engine?

Some of the noises found on roller test, defined as either Top or Bottom End related, were eliminated by adjusting primary chain correctly. Please check the primary chain's adjustment before attempting to diagnose engine noise.

Field complaints of engine noise or vibration are often traced back to a loose compensating nut in the primary drive. Use a stethoscope to isolate the source, and eliminate obvious external culprits. If it appears to be in the primary housing, first check for a loose compensating nut.
.
• If loose, disassemble the parts and look for worn surfaces indicating poor clamp load and a diminished stack height. Replace any damaged components. When reassembling, clean the threads on both the shaft and nut, prime the threads, loctite parts with 262 threadlocker and torque to 150- 165 ft-lbs. NOTE: this is the old torque spec.

• If the nut seems tight there may be a stack up issue preventing it from achieving full clamp load. Try adding a 24033-70 shim under the head of the compensating nut (p/n 40392-91) and re-assemble as described above.

Good luck with the fix......

 

New comp nut installed, torqued to specs, all put back together, NO LOVE. I guess it is the jack shaft. I'll get another and throw that at it and see what happens.

 

Did you check the rotor for wear?

Did you check to see if the new nut was bottoming out on the crank before applying full torque to the comp assembly?

 

Ok, stupid question. Should I maybe be looking at the starter solenoid? Maybe it's not kicking the jack shaft out enough when its hot? I just don't understand why I'm not seeing and wear on the teeth.

 

you have to understand that unless there is a problem you will seldom hear about it.
so I will post up that my SE original comp is still going strong. I did have to install a shim spring somewhere in the midway of 40,000 km.

 

In some cases it was the loose nut/bolt. after a re torque the bang went away for a while.
In the past few years it was determined that the spring stack did not apply enough load on the ramps. The ramps have play, you get the bang when hot as the springs are weaker when hot, adds more slack on ramps. a shim was found to solve that.
HTT had a thread showing what the spring stack height new should be and that not all new springs were equal.