OK, I realize that this subject has been beat to death and I apologize up front.

I've hunted everywhere I can think of on this subject and I can't seem to find the answer, so, I beseech the knowledge of the gurus here.

After all this work I have done to my primary drive, I still feel like my clutch is not adjusted correctly. I went through the steps, loosened the jam nut, backed off the adjuster so there was a ton of slack in the clutch cable, loosened the adjuster nut on the clutch and screwed the adjuster out and seated it lightly, then backed it off a little more than half a turn and tightened the adjuster nut. I squeezed the clutch lever about three times and readjusted the clutch cable and buttoned everything back up.

Here's what I found strange....

I had the bike up on a jack and started the bike up in neutral. The back wheel spins just a little. I can stop it with my hand, but the minute I let go, it spins even if I pull in the clutch lever. I assume that means the clutch is engaged a little and is dragging.

Am I worried over nothing or is this normal?

 

Completely normal.

 

OK, that makes me feel a hell of a lot better. I thought the clutch was still engaged even in neutral. I was worried about premature wear on the clutch plates.

I feel like I finally have my clutch lever set exactly to how I want it and I didn't want to have to adjust it again for the millionth time this week. I realize I have to adjust it from time to time, just not every time I go to ride!

Thanks again hdbob2006! You da man!

 

Normal. The clutch is full of oil (as is proper) and the oil between the plates is dragging from one plate to the next. Kinda like an some automatic transmissions in a way.

 

If the clutch was engaged, even a little bit you wouldn't be able to stop the tire with your hand.





+1

 

+1 with the oil in the clutch plates (stiction). Sometimes on cool mornings and first starts, first shift, the loud clank is caused by incomplete plate separation and the cold oil syndrome, when the oil is hot the stiction tends to disappear.

 

With the bike in neutral, the engine running and the clutch engaged the oil in the primary is not involved. All the gear pairs in the transmission are permanently engaged and 'windage' in the transmission oil, caused by the input shaft carrying the clutch, turns over the other gears and the rear wheel. When stopping the wheel with your hand you are simply stopping the oil, there is no mechanical link that can cause you any harm.

 

I beg to ask the question, how DO you adjust the clutch? Mine engages way too late in my opinion.

 

Jack up the bike, remove inspection cover. On the clutch cable, loosen the jam nut and back off the adjuster to create slack in the clutch cable. At the clutch hub, loosen the clutch nut and back out the adjuster screw. Move the adjuster in and out a couple times and then screw it in and seat it very lightly and then back it out about 1/2 to one turn. Retighten the clutch nut and reinstall the inspection cover. Move the clutch lever about three times to ensure the ball and ramp assembly is properly seating. Then, start moving the clutch adjuster on the clutch cable out until the clutch lever has about the space of a nickel between the lever and the grip. Tighten the jam nut. Done!

EDIT: You should also buy a field service manual for your bike. Best money you'll ever spend if you wrench on your own bike.

 

It should be noted that the above adjustments must be done on a stone cold engine.

Get an FSM for these instructions and much, much more.