Not the first thread on this subject, but previously I was focused on the engine side of things. I'm still weighing the whole equation out! One of the biggest struggles I have with upgrading though, is that unlike most other powersports (cars, sport bikes, snowmobiles, ETC,) the differences between a great condition 2011 and a new 2022 aren't super obvious, so I wanted to start this thread to make sure I was considering the whole equation.

What I have right now is a 2011 Street Glide with 20k miles. The previous owner had put a Daymaker in, powder coated a fair amount of the bike including the fork, and I've replaced the majority of the remaining chrome with black, as I much prefer the look. The bike currently has a SG 110 in it, if kept I'll have a 124" crate motor installed over the winter however. I'm still struggling with the decision of whether or not it is worth it to spend a fair chunk of change to start fresh with a new bike- it's round about 20k difference between what I'd expect my bike to sell for and what I'd expect to buy a new bike for. If I did buy a new bike, I would have a big build done over the winter. So, please help me understand the differences!

1- M8 vs TC- obviously a large difference in power, especially when considering the apparent large difference between what a well Power Vision tuned, cam'd bike with an exhaust will do to a stock 114 M8 vs the same level of mods on a TC 103. However, this equation is a bit different- either way I'm looking at a motor build that'll push the envelope of how far you'd want to go before converting to a chain drive. That said, from my research it does look like a 150/150 build on an M8 can be achieved for similar money to an S&S crate motor that should make around 140/140. Right? So slight advantage M8 if so. The other side of the coin is that I believe I appreciate the character of the TC a bit more- the vibration and the idle are more raw. I plan on spending some time on an M8 before making a final decision in either case.

2- I believe the chassis was changed to Rushmore in 2014, right? I'm looking at probably upgrading the suspension either way, so once we are comparing upgraded suspension to upgraded suspension, is there much difference?

3- One major difference easily observed is the infotainment system. My 2011 doesn't have a touch screen or nav, and I have to believe that the new bike sounds far superior, though I haven't spent any real seat time on one. I also assume that if I were to upgrade the speakers and amp, the only major difference at that point is the infotainment system. Am I correct?

From there, the details get a bit more muddy to me, and I'm hoping with the knowledge base here that you can help correct me or confirm on the above three points, as well as outline any other differences I may be missing. I don't believe there were any significant transmission upgrades making the new bike more apt to handle the power than the old bike, right?

Again, the main thing I'm struggling with is "how much sense does it make to spend $20k to start with a fresh bike, only to pull out the majority of the components I just paid for and replace them?" Also, the warranty is a bit of a non factor based on the prior point as well.

Thanks,

Bob

 

I have no input, but I do want to follow along.

 

Since the SGS for 2022 starts at around $27.5k, it makes perfect sense. If you can get one for $20k you're $7.5k ahead right out of the gate.

 

I don't believe the chassis was upgraded with the Rushmore makeover in 2014. They changed the chassis in 2009 and I think it's still the same frame.
They may have upgraded the suspension but from what I've seen it's not much better than the stock air shocks on the Pre-Rushmore models.
I personally don't like the looks of the Rushmore Street Glides. Don't like the air vent in the fairing but the saddle bags are better with one handed operation.
The Infotainment Center doesn't mean much to me. I upgraded my head unit to an Aquatic AV and put new speakers in the fairing and saddle bags. Sounds great to me and I can hear it just fine at all speeds.
If I need GPS I just use my phone mounted to the handlebar.
I think you will be better off keeping the 2011 and using that $20,000 to help upgrade your current ride.

 

Night and day difference, Motor, front shocks, To many to list!

 

The big thing that made me change to a 2016 Rushmore bike, from a 2012 bagger, was the 49mm front end....

I was planning to do a bigger displacement engine build, with a significant increase in power, and decided I wanted the beefier forks in front of my big engine.....

The 41mm front end on my 2012, was developed for smaller engines with significantly less power...

Just food for thought......

 

There were a lot of changes between the years. The forks went from 41mm to 49mm. The infotainment system was changed to the touch screen now. The fairing has the vent which is supposed to reduce buffeting. Moving back, the saddlebag latches changes and the suspension is different now too. The engine is obviously different.

My thought is this: When I bought my 2020 I was only in the market for a bagger because my other bike is a 2011 Cross Bones. If my 2011 were a Street Glide, I would not have purchased the 2020. I only bought it because I didn't have a touring bike and I desperately wanted one. For me, the answer was obvious. There are upgrades, sure, but not enough for me to justify the new bike considering you already have one.

For you, my opinion, keep what you have.

 

I was referring to the rough estimated difference between what I could reasonably expect to pay for mine vs what I would reasonably expect to pay for a new one.

 

OK, front end upgraded from 41mm to 49mm. I'm assuming that the net result is greater rigidity?

 

With all of the motor work you have planned, maybe a used 2020 or 2021 might be a better buy. As mentioned, the chassis hasn't changed much from your 2011 other than the forks, and maybe a brace here and there for the M8. Someone can confirm, but for what you have planned, will H-D retain the warranty on a 2022?