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daytona twin-tec install

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  #11  
Old 08-14-2007, 09:21 PM
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Default RE: daytona twin-tec install

ORIGINAL: Harley Rulz

ORIGINAL: 77Tulsa

Tough crowd today! So I will ask this question with thick skin.Does the 113" use the stroker crank which is about 1000 bucks? And if I didn't stroke it would that make it 105" motor?
ORIGINAL: PhilM

ORIGINAL: Harley Rulz

Of course,I (smoked) cracked (while I installed)mine but it still worked.
[8D]
If You bore it it will be a 95" and if you stroke it,it will be a 103"

I used the Screaming Eagle crank and pistons to stroke mine.I don't remember exactly what it cost for parts (around $1300.00 I think).


You country boys crack me up.....your math skillz leave a little to be desired......you got your decimal in the wrong place....if I stroke it, I usually get 10.5" and if I bore it.......it's usually alot smaller than 9.5"


It don't cost me nuthin but a little time!!!!!
 
  #12  
Old 08-14-2007, 09:30 PM
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Default RE: daytona twin-tec install

I can tell ya you wont be disappointed with the DTT. More than enough guys now on the forum running the DTT that can help you through the initial tuning.
 
  #13  
Old 08-14-2007, 09:38 PM
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Default RE: daytona twin-tec install

I happen to know that there is yet another resident expert in the works too.....

hint: Rinehart, Supertrapp, FatCat.....



We'll get ya going Tim! I saw that Doug said he had some heads in stock for ya.... I saw your post indicating that tou'll be trying to get it all together quickly... Be sure to find out what year heads he's shipping (pre-06 or 06 & later). As long has your ride is in the same range (05 or older / 06 or newer) you'll be fine w/o any changes. If they are not in the same range, you'll need to pick up a set of intake flanges that match the HEADS. Otherwise there is no difference, after he's done with them... HTe only difference is the flange bolt holes were slightly relocated in 06.

 
  #14  
Old 08-15-2007, 05:22 AM
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Default RE: daytona twin-tec install

ORIGINAL: PhilM

I happen to know that there is yet another resident expert in the works too.....

hint: Rinehart, Supertrapp, FatCat.....

LOL...........who could that be

I have to say THANKS to Phil for spending 90 minutes on the phone with me tonight doing the initial setup, without him I would still be out in the garage trying to get it all setup. On my last adjustment, I hit it dead on......at 115 degrees it's right at 30. Now it's time to take it out for it's first ride, that will have to wait for tonight after work.

THANKS Phil!!

Steve
 
  #15  
Old 08-15-2007, 06:13 AM
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Default RE: daytona twin-tec install

You're welcome Steve!

I knew it was getting really close and had a sneaky suspecion that we might have nailed it on the last adjuatment.

Just a few things....
1) Get those small flat washers and install them on the TPS screws and use a drop of loctite on each screw.
2) LOCK that IAC (idle stop) set screw BEFORE you go out & ride it. If wither of those two are not safely locked in place, they will work themselves loose and (as you saw) it only takes a tiny bit to screw that pairing all up.
3) When ya go out to ride..... start the bike and let it idle for a couple minutes before you head out. Ideally, you want it to come out of "cold" state before ya go riding.

Good work Dude!
 
  #16  
Old 08-15-2007, 06:24 AM
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Default RE: daytona twin-tec install

They are using the 113" kit that requires the cases to be bored for the 4.062" pistons.

Quote from Harleyrulz
If You bore it it will be a 95" and if you stroke it,it will be a 103"

I used the Screaming Eagle crank and pistons to stroke mine.I don't remember exactly what it cost for parts (around $1300.00 I think).
[/quote]
 
  #17  
Old 08-15-2007, 11:30 AM
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Default RE: daytona twin-tec install

Phil, thanks for the tips, I'll have to check with Doug on the heads, but I think he said these were fairly new heads, so I will probably need the new flanges. How is the best way to lock the idle adj. screw? You guys have been very helpful. Thanks again! Tim
 
  #18  
Old 08-15-2007, 02:20 PM
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Default RE: daytona twin-tec install

ORIGINAL: TBJOSEY
How is the best way to lock the idle adj. screw?
I prefer to use a 2nd set screw on top of the existing one, as a "jam nut".To do this, more than likely, you will have to grind close to 50% of the additional set screw off due to space limitations. Another option is to use some sort of locking compound on theexposed threads of the set screw and tapped area of the the TB. Loctite is not a viable option here because you need to be about to adjust on theIAC (throttle stop) set screw during the tuning process. Once it is "right", you need to LOCK IT in thatexact position. I could probably explain it better over the phone, so if it doesn'tmake sesne, shoot me a PM and we can chat on the phone.

The reason I mentioned the flanges is that not all dealerships stock them, so you may have to locate them if you need some.....
 
  #19  
Old 08-15-2007, 03:09 PM
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Default RE: daytona twin-tec install

OR....like me, once i put the stock 06 TB back on it had some lockin compound from the factory combined with a special torx head so gettin it out was impossible....i just took metal off the screw on the back side til it gave me the correct clearance
 
  #20  
Old 08-15-2007, 03:48 PM
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Default RE: daytona twin-tec install

Picked up the little washers today, going to loc-tite those screws and put the washers in tonight. Going to try to lock the other screw in place, maybe some nail polish will do the trick[8D].

Can't wait to take it out for it's maiden voyage tonight, hopefully I make it home and don't have to call for a trailer.

Steve
 


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