You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join HDForums.com community today!
My 99 Road King has an interesting idle characteristic, and it annoys me. I'm hoping some of you on this board can diagnose or explain what's happening:
1.) When I start the engine, it starts immediately and idles pretty fast (not sure of exact RPMs, because my tach is not yet installed).
2.) It runs pretty high for a good 5 minutes
3.) When it starts to warm up, the idle drops and the engine sounds wonderful for about 10-20 minutes.
4.) After 20 minutes, when the engine is fully warmed up, the idle starts increasing again and runs a little high. Sometimes it sounds like it's running above 1200RPMs.
First, I'm wondering if I should just have the idle adjusted, or if the problem is that the engine needs to be tuned using SERT or Power Commander? In other words, maybe the bike is running lean at idle due to the SE Slip-ons? I bought the bike with the slip-ons and maybe the PO didn't have the computer re-configured? I thought the FI computer would be able to read the exhaust change and alter the fuel/air ratio?
Anyway, I'm not interested in having a bike idle below the Harley-recommend speed. I'm just pretty sure that it's idling too fast and needs to come down.
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on HD Forums!
__________________
1999 Road King Classic - Chicago, IL
"Pure horsepower means a lot less to me than personality, soul and charisma of the engine."
Check the connection to the temp sensor in the head and temp sensor itself. I think if this is faulty it tricks the ecm to the cold engine statis raising the rpms.Could also be a tps problem. Air leaks are generally stable with temp but spray around all the joints. If there is a leak the engine will slow down when you find it. If you test with propane it will speed up at the leak.
__________________ 07 Softail Custom, HQ 113, TTS, SE Heavy Breather, SE Comp, 49 Tooth Evo Sprocket, Rivera Pro Clutch, Supertrapp Supermeg, Jagg Oil Cooler. Crank rebuilt by Hoban/Darkhorse.
Check the connection to the temp sensor in the head and temp sensor itself. I think if this is faulty it tricks the ecm to the cold engine statis raising the rpms.Could also be a tps problem. Air leaks are generally stable with temp but spray around all the joints. If there is a leak the engine will slow down when you find it. If you test with propane it will speed up at the leak.
My 2000 RKC (FLHRCI) has now been in the repair shop for almost 4 weeks. Cause? Put it in for correctionofwhat I thought was a high idle speed when the motor was at normal running temperature.Once at operating temperature, it would idle like crazy at the lights (I also don't have a tacho so don't know what revs, but obviously way too high) and the bike would sometimes actually run at legal speed around town in fourth gear with no throttle!!
Firstly the dealer's diagnostics said Engine Temp Sensor was reading all over the place, which indicated that a richer mixture was often needed to maintain proper idle speed - when in fact it wasn't. Second diagnosics said the Throttle Position Sensor was also out as itwould only read full throttle as 75%. Replaced the ETS and the TPS, only to be told that the engine temperature sensing was OK but this did not correct the problem and would need a new ECM.
I'm in the middle of a 10 working day wait for delivery of the ECM from the States as there were none in Australia.
Hope you have better luck than me and a shorter waiting time to get you bike back!! This is probably going to end up costing meabout a grand to fix that fast idle.
__________________
Klinger from Oz
2000 Road King Classic FLHRCI
SE Stage II 95" Big Bore Kit - SE Slip Ons - High flow air intake - Power Commander - S&S 510 Gear Driven Cams - HD Touring Oil Cooler - HD Thunderstar Mag wheels - Inch and a quarter Burleigh Westerns - Mustang Solo Seat
2003 Buell XB9S (with a big loud thing underneath that looks like a muffler)
1982 BMW R65LS (Commuter and restoration project with only 45,000miles)
Forgot to mention that my bike displayed all the same characteristics i.e. runs fast when started (which is normal), gradual reduction in rpm asmotor heats up (which is also normal), then runs OK for a while, then, after a while,does whateverit likes at idle but mostly, and very obviously,too fast!!
Also was told that if you have EFI, the manual idle adjustment is only a fine adjustment and will only give you +/- about 100rpm variation. You need to start the diagnostic trail that I have endured.I hope your problem is simpler and cheaper than mine.
__________________
Klinger from Oz
2000 Road King Classic FLHRCI
SE Stage II 95" Big Bore Kit - SE Slip Ons - High flow air intake - Power Commander - S&S 510 Gear Driven Cams - HD Touring Oil Cooler - HD Thunderstar Mag wheels - Inch and a quarter Burleigh Westerns - Mustang Solo Seat
2003 Buell XB9S (with a big loud thing underneath that looks like a muffler)
1982 BMW R65LS (Commuter and restoration project with only 45,000miles)
Forgot to mention that my bike displayed all the same characteristics i.e. runs fast when started (which is normal), gradual reduction in rpm asmotor heats up (which is also normal), then runs OK for a while, then, after a while,does whateverit likes at idle but mostly, and very obviously,too fast!!
Also was told that if you have EFI, the manual idle adjustment is only a fine adjustment and will only give you +/- about 100rpm variation. You need to start the diagnostic trail that I have endured.I hope your problem is simpler and cheaper than mine.
You know, I feel bad for what you are going through. You describe it exactly like my bike. From a logistical perspective, it sounds like a head temp sensor issue. It could be that the comptuter is doing exactly what it is supposed to be doing (raising and lowering RPM based on what it is being told from the sensor). I might look into the cost to replace that item and do it myself.
Thanks for the info on the fine adjustment, good heads up for me. Please let us know the update on your bike and what you did to fix it.
__________________
1999 Road King Classic - Chicago, IL
"Pure horsepower means a lot less to me than personality, soul and charisma of the engine."
Check the connection to the temp sensor in the head and temp sensor itself. I think if this is faulty it tricks the ecm to the cold engine statis raising the rpms.Could also be a tps problem. Air leaks are generally stable with temp but spray around all the joints. If there is a leak the engine will slow down when you find it. If you test with propane it will speed up at the leak.
PROPANE ??? [sm=badidea.gif]
Actually it works great and leaves no mess. I use a rubber hose attached to the regulator on a 5 gallan tank. Direct the hose at the intake manifold at each head and see if you have any leaks, rpm's will increase if leaking. This method has worked wonderfully for years for me.
update: I installed a tachometer on my bike and tested it out.
1.) When I first start the bike, the engine fires right up and idles between 1600-1750 RPM.
2.) The engine continues to run that fast for quite a few moments, up to about 5 minutes.
3.) The engine slowly starts to come down to around 1100-1200 rpm.
4.) When it appears fully warm, the engine will idle between 1050-1200 rpm.
Since the twin cam is supposed to idle between 950-1050 rpm, my RPM is set too high. I will perform the cold idle adjustment as the Bentley Manual recommends, and also the hot idle adjustment as well. I will report back.
__________________
1999 Road King Classic - Chicago, IL
"Pure horsepower means a lot less to me than personality, soul and charisma of the engine."
Twin Cam Road King in Chicago - needs SERT?
07 Softail Custom, HQ 113, TTS, SE Heavy Breather, SE Comp, 49 Tooth Evo Sprocket, Rivera Pro Clutch, Supertrapp Supermeg, Jagg Oil Cooler. Crank rebuilt by Hoban/Darkhorse.
2005 Electra Glide Standard
