DIY--Wheel Removal and Install--Completed
#1
DIY--Wheel Removal and Install--Completed
I recently did a front and rear wheel swap on my '04 EG police model. Nothing dramatic; just replaced the black nine-spoke wheels with silver nine-spoke wheels--purchased from HDFer Bobzilla--thanks Bob. I hadn't removed either wheel before, except fortire replacements done by the dealer.
The HD Service Manual was great and again paid for itself since my local HD store wanted 150 bucks to do this project. The directions in the SM are fine, butdon't provide a list of tools to use. Here's what I found necessary:
Tools:
T40 Torx drive head/socket (front brake rotor bolts);
10mm 12pt socket (to remove front calipers from forks);[/align]3/4" socket (to remove front axle nut);[/align]1/2" socket (to loosen, not remove, front axle holder nuts);[/align]Soft mallet (to drive front and rear axles out);[/align]36mm axle socket (to remove rear axle cone nut);[/align]T45 Torx drive head/socket (rear brake rotor bolts);[/align]5/8" socket (pulley bolts);[/align]ft./lb Torque wrenches; 3/8" and 1/2" (for cone nut)drives;[/align]in./lb Torque wrench (front axle holder nuts);[/align]Large adjustable wrench (to hold left side weld nut on rear axle); and,[/align]Belt Deflection Gauge (HD-35381A).[/align][/align]Chemicals:[/align][/align]Anti-seize lube (for the axles)[/align]Red loctite (pulley bolts)[/align]Mother's Polish[/align][/align]I used a Sears yellow jack to lift the bike, and the scissor jack from my Suburban to support the wheel/tire I wasn't working on. The jack under the tire isn't mentioned in the SM, but seemed like a good idea since the bike's balance changes when a wheel/tire is removed. The bike was very stable and secured with tie downs at three points.[/align][/align]Also, the SM doesn't suggest that the fasteners be loosened, particularly the rear axle cone nut, BEFORE the bike is lifted. I didn't do this either, but in hindsight, that would be a good idea--kind of like loosening thelug nuts when changing a flat on a car before raising the car. The rear cone nut should have an installed torque of about 100 ft-lbs, and that's a lot of force to be applied to a bike that's on a bike lift. So, hindsight being 20/20, I would loosen the cone nut before putting the bike in the air, and the front caliper bolts, axle nut, and axle retention nuts.[/align][/align]Before purchasing the wheels, I checked the HD parts books to see if the RG wheels from an '05 RG would fit without any mods my '04 EG. Fortunately, everything is exactly the same: wheels, tires, spacers, etc.[/align][/align]I like pics so here's a few of the bike:[/align][/align]Front wheel off:[/align][/align][/align][/align]The HD fender protector is good insurance against fender damage, especially since I drop things at exactly the wrong moment, occasionally. There isn't a lot of room to remove the front calipers--the edge of the front fender is close and did get touched; but no damage. Also, the SM says to let the calipers hang loose--I didn't like that since they are pretty hefty and put strain on the manifold; next time I'd have some bungee cord or otherwise supportthem using the engine guard.[/align][/align]I was able to do the front wheel R and R by myself. And I could havedone the rear wheel by myself by raising and lowering the bike to remove the belt from the pulley, remove the rear caliper, etc. But since I was doing this at Kevin's (Pirateeye's) garage, he pitched in for the rear wheelR and R and I'm glad he did.[/align][/align][/align][/align]The Mother's polish is included in the list of chemicals 'cause it did an excellent job cleaning up the wheel hubs, and hardware that, f
The HD Service Manual was great and again paid for itself since my local HD store wanted 150 bucks to do this project. The directions in the SM are fine, butdon't provide a list of tools to use. Here's what I found necessary:
Tools:
T40 Torx drive head/socket (front brake rotor bolts);
10mm 12pt socket (to remove front calipers from forks);[/align]3/4" socket (to remove front axle nut);[/align]1/2" socket (to loosen, not remove, front axle holder nuts);[/align]Soft mallet (to drive front and rear axles out);[/align]36mm axle socket (to remove rear axle cone nut);[/align]T45 Torx drive head/socket (rear brake rotor bolts);[/align]5/8" socket (pulley bolts);[/align]ft./lb Torque wrenches; 3/8" and 1/2" (for cone nut)drives;[/align]in./lb Torque wrench (front axle holder nuts);[/align]Large adjustable wrench (to hold left side weld nut on rear axle); and,[/align]Belt Deflection Gauge (HD-35381A).[/align][/align]Chemicals:[/align][/align]Anti-seize lube (for the axles)[/align]Red loctite (pulley bolts)[/align]Mother's Polish[/align][/align]I used a Sears yellow jack to lift the bike, and the scissor jack from my Suburban to support the wheel/tire I wasn't working on. The jack under the tire isn't mentioned in the SM, but seemed like a good idea since the bike's balance changes when a wheel/tire is removed. The bike was very stable and secured with tie downs at three points.[/align][/align]Also, the SM doesn't suggest that the fasteners be loosened, particularly the rear axle cone nut, BEFORE the bike is lifted. I didn't do this either, but in hindsight, that would be a good idea--kind of like loosening thelug nuts when changing a flat on a car before raising the car. The rear cone nut should have an installed torque of about 100 ft-lbs, and that's a lot of force to be applied to a bike that's on a bike lift. So, hindsight being 20/20, I would loosen the cone nut before putting the bike in the air, and the front caliper bolts, axle nut, and axle retention nuts.[/align][/align]Before purchasing the wheels, I checked the HD parts books to see if the RG wheels from an '05 RG would fit without any mods my '04 EG. Fortunately, everything is exactly the same: wheels, tires, spacers, etc.[/align][/align]I like pics so here's a few of the bike:[/align][/align]Front wheel off:[/align][/align][/align][/align]The HD fender protector is good insurance against fender damage, especially since I drop things at exactly the wrong moment, occasionally. There isn't a lot of room to remove the front calipers--the edge of the front fender is close and did get touched; but no damage. Also, the SM says to let the calipers hang loose--I didn't like that since they are pretty hefty and put strain on the manifold; next time I'd have some bungee cord or otherwise supportthem using the engine guard.[/align][/align]I was able to do the front wheel R and R by myself. And I could havedone the rear wheel by myself by raising and lowering the bike to remove the belt from the pulley, remove the rear caliper, etc. But since I was doing this at Kevin's (Pirateeye's) garage, he pitched in for the rear wheelR and R and I'm glad he did.[/align][/align][/align][/align]The Mother's polish is included in the list of chemicals 'cause it did an excellent job cleaning up the wheel hubs, and hardware that, f
#2
#5
#6
RE: Wheel Removal and Install--Completed
ORIGINAL: Harleypingman
Dawg, have you posted a pic with Puzzled's product installed? Frankly, I missed this product--looks very nice.
Dawg, have you posted a pic with Puzzled's product installed? Frankly, I missed this product--looks very nice.
[IMG]local://upfiles/13641/E17285488316472E85E5BEEFF6C274EE.jpg[/IMG]
#7
Trending Topics
#10
RE: DIY--Wheel Removal and Install--Completed
xmeter:My take-offs were sold, shipped, and delivered to another HDFer last week. If you would like a set, a buddy did the same swap I did and has a set of black nine-spoke wheels/tires etc. off his '03 Ultra that he may want to sell. I'll call him and get back to you via PM.