Well, I don't have a plethora of pictures but I thought I'd share my experience with changing out the stock bars on my '08 RKC with a set of Wild1 518's. May be helpful / give folks who are considering the job an idea of what's involved. Here's all I'm tackling:

Wild 1 518 Chubby Bars
Internally running wires
8" extention on wires, using a kit from Namz
Chrome switch housings
Chrome switches

Here's how things have gone so far.

1) Removed the Maxi-fuse from the bike. Simple, by the book. Pulled the left saddlebag, popped the left fuse box cover, pulled the fuse.

2) Removed the left and right switches and the right grip. Nothing doing here. Simply use the right torque wrenches to remove the upper and lower clamps, pull off the switches, and lay them down on the fender which has been covered with a towel for protection. Pull off the right grip.

3) Removed the headlight Nacelle: Easy again, by the book. Remove a few sets of screws here and there, split the halves of the nacelle, exposing the wiring harnesses. Before removing the nacelle, disconnect the auxiliary switches. Again, use the shop manual for all these steps and it's cake.

4) Removed the twist grip sensor. This was a bit trickier than earlier steps. First I disconnected the TGS wiring from the front, which simply involved unplugging it near the risers. Next, you have to ease the TGS out of the bar to access the plug that connects the TGS. Here's where I got confused, as I was reading the manual and I misunderstood it to think I needed to pull the plug near the risers. However, you are going to pull the TGS out roughly 10 inches until you see the plug on the grip side of the bar. There is a small plug that connects it to the wiring bundle that goes through and out the hole near the risers. It may take some easy pulling back and forth to get the TGS out far enough, but eventually it came out. Once I saw the plug on the TGS side, I disconnected it and the TGS was free. Next, I tied some 45lb fishing line around the wiring next to the plug I had just disconnected from the TGS (the wiring that's now going through the bar). Again, with some easy back and forth working, I pulled the wiring out through the riser side of the bars - pulling the small TGS plug all the way through the bars. The fishing line was used in case it got stuck, and I needed to back it out.

5) With all the wiring out, I simply removed the top clamp and the bars were free. The results are in the pic below (if I can get it to upload).

Next, it's on to the extending of the wires.

6) I took the switch housings inside, trailing the wires with them. First, I needed to remove the black backings for the molex plug sockets so I could pull the wires out of the plugs. Now, I believe I'm doing this right, but it differs from posts I've seen here. At the riser end of the switch wire bundles are PIN end plugs, not SOCKET end plugs. All the pics I've seen on other posts looked like sockets, but logically on this setup the place to do the extention is on the riser side with the PIN ends. So...that's what I'm doing. I took the black backings off of the plugs, on the side that points up the wire towards the switches. I must have done it wrong though because I managed to break the tiny little tabs that lock it in place in the plug. Going to have to hit the stealer today to see if they have a replacement. Also, when I removed these, a few white stick looking things fell out. Didn't see these in the shop manual, but they look like they are simply plugs for a couple of excess unused holes in my wiring setup. Again, will check with stealer to see if they have more.

7) With the backings off the plugs, I need to remove the wires now. To do this, you use a pair of needle nose pliers on the front of the molex plugs. If you look into the front of the plug (the side away from the switches) you see a bunch of pins and two larger holes in the middle of the plug. Push a needle nose pliers into these holes (they barely fit), squeeze lightly, and pull. They won't come all the way out...you just want to unlock the pins by pulling the plastic plate out until it stops. This unlockes the pins.

8) Next comes the removal of the now unlocked pins. To so this, the shop manual calls for a "pin removal tool." I'm sure it would be easier, but I didn't have one. I instead used a bent out paper clip and sang the McGyver song as I worked. What you need to do is look again into the front of the plug, where you will see a number of small holes next to each pin. A small paper clip fits just right into these holes. Push the paper clip into the hole until you feel it stop, and feel a tiny little "pop" at the same time. If you push, stop, and it goes way farther in then you've gone to far. If you push and it simply stops, you likely missed the golden spot. It's hard to describe, but know that when you get it right, you should easily be able to pull the corresponding wire out the opposite side. This was a pain in the ***, and required my GF to help by pulling wires. I would fish on the front side, feel that little click, then she'd pull it out the other side. It takes 2 sets of hands.

SO!

That's where I'm at so far. I'll update the post once I get more done!
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(Hey look! The post went through! Sweet)
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[IMG]local://upfiles/36775/CB04CA39EC5941E582192C1E7654B78C.jpg[/IMG]

 

Wow, yo stuff be to' up from the flo' up!&nbsp\\; Keep us posted!

m.a.c.

 

Hey Andy,
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&nbsp\\;Not sure how much it will help on an '08 bar swap but you never know. This site and the HD repair manual helped me put 518's on my '06 RKC.
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