Andrews 26 cams. Worth the $$??
#21
Going gears on an '07 makes no sense to me, but it's your money. I hope your crank holds up and you get a good ride with the gears.
#23
When you change to the Andrews 26H on a stock 96" (except of exaust and A\C) what additional parts are required? Also is it best to go to adjustable push rods? Is it a job that one with reasonable mechanical abilities should take on themselves? Getting ready to get a fuel management system (directlink or sest) and a dyno so now would be a good time for the cam upgrade..me thinks!
#24
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Port Orchard, Washington
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Andrews 26 cams. Worth the $$??
The Andrews 26 cams are relatively close to stock. I started with a Stock TC88 and went with Headquarters 034G Hurricane cams, S&S gear drive, K&N air cleaner and a Power Commander III usb. Total parts & labor at an indy was just under $2,000. These cams use stock valve springs & we installed adjustable push rods so the top end didn't have to come off. Dyno tuned @ 78 hp & 88 ft/lb torque. Great sound & lots of gitty-up above 2800 rpm. Imagine what reworking the heads would do with this arrangement.
Gregm
Gregm
#25
When you change to the Andrews 26H on a stock 96" (except of exaust and A\C) what additional parts are required? Also is it best to go to adjustable push rods? Is it a job that one with reasonable mechanical abilities should take on themselves? Getting ready to get a fuel management system (directlink or sest) and a dyno so now would be a good time for the cam upgrade..me thinks!
the only additional parts needed was new lifters because I had almost 16k on the bike, i didn't have to but I choose to, and the cam install kit,
Winter special (Ended Feb) at HD dealer was install cam, parts & labor with dyno tune was $828.oo +tax out the door... I thought it was to good to pass up...
#26
The Andrews 26 cams are relatively close to stock. I started with a Stock TC88 and went with Headquarters 034G Hurricane cams, S&S gear drive, K&N air cleaner and a Power Commander III usb. Total parts & labor at an indy was just under $2,000. These cams use stock valve springs & we installed adjustable push rods so the top end didn't have to come off. Dyno tuned @ 78 hp & 88 ft/lb torque. Great sound & lots of gitty-up above 2800 rpm. Imagine what reworking the heads would do with this arrangement.
Gregm
Gregm
With the taller gearing in our 07 bikes VS pre 07's we need more TQ down low.
Your 05 bike is about 300-350 rpm's higher at the same speed (MPH) than the 07's. So At 2800 rpm's I'm running 74 mph, compared to yours at 67 mph
Therefore if we both were riding at 67, you in 5th and turning 2800 rpm;s and I in 6th at 2450 rpm's I would have to downshift to get the rpm's up to 2800 just to get on the cam.
So what works great in the pre 07 bikes will not give a good as performance in the 07-08's because of the gearing difference.
In my study of bolt in cams for a 07, 96" with stage 1, no other engine work, IMO the grind of the 26's give the best overall numbers for my style of riding . Mostly between 2200-3500 rpm's 80% of the time....and also hangs in long enough for the once in a while Wind Her Out when Grandma isn't on the back.......
Regardless what bolt in cam one picks it will give be better than the EPA stock cam that comes in it!!!
#27
Trying to understand the hydraulic cam tensioner issue for my bike ??
Which is a 2000 FLHT TC 88 which had the dreaded needle bearings so in 2001 I had a indy( gone now) change out the needles to roller add a Andrews bagger cam T 26 or something and new adjustable pushrods.I,m on 33,000 miles now so I,m concern about the hdy cam tensioners.My question is would he have installed upgraded tensioners at that time (2001) or wasn't widely known they were a wear/problem part? I know pull the cover off and check the but I,m 3 months out from left hip surgery and getting down and up is a problem.My oil pressure is 30 psi running down the road.The good news I can ride this summer.
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