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Primary chain replacement

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  #1  
Old 08-10-2008, 07:08 PM
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Default Primary chain replacement

I have a 2001 Electra Glide Standard FLHT with 22,000 mi. on the odometer. During my last trip, I noticed a lot of chattering from the primary case so I figured it must be time to change the primary oil. I use Harley Formula+ in the tranny & primary. I run Mobile 1 V-Twin synthetic in the crankcase. When I opened the primary inspection cover, I noticed that the chain was very loose and the chain tensioner was missing the top bolt that holds it to the inner primary wall. After discussion with a local bike shop, I was able to fish the bolt out of the bottom of the primary case with a magnet. It was pretty chewed up to say the least. The local shop pulled the primary cover, cleaned out the metal shavings, replaced the bolt, looked it all over for further damage, adjusted the chain tension, replaced the gaskets and filled the primary. I rode it home in the rain so I didn't check it out all that well. On my next ride I noticed a different chattering, usually during deceleration, which sounded like someone was shaking a bunch of nuts and bolts in a tin pie pan. I thought maybe it was clutch chatter so I adjusted the clutch. Now my clutch feels better however, no change in the chattering. I also noticed that the local shop adjusted the primary chain with zero play in the chain tension. I loosened it up to 5/8" as described in the shop manual. Again, no change in the chattering. The bike shifts gears just fine and I haven't noticed any loss of power or performance, just the annoying chattering during slow speed deceleration. Is it possible that the primary chain is damaged even though it looks ok according to my local shop?
 
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Old 09-10-2008, 12:43 PM
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Default Update on Primary Chain

Just an update if anyone is interested. The chattering I heard after the primary chain tensioner issue was fixed turned out to be worn cams, bearings, lifters and cam chains. The cam chain tensioners were worn down quite a bit, but not completely. I was hoping to simply replace the tensioners, however, this has turned out to be a much bigger job with a much bigger price tag!
 
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Old 09-10-2008, 01:40 PM
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That is unusual at your mileage...I've heard most have issues around 40,000 miles...
 
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Old 09-10-2008, 02:06 PM
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might consider gear drive cams if you are replacing all the worn parts. more $ but no more issues with worn chains and tensioners
 
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Old 09-10-2008, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by blueflht
might consider gear drive cams if you are replacing all the worn parts. more $ but no more issues with worn chains and tensioners
Yep! If you plan on keeping it for a while, gear drive cams are the way to go.
 
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Old 09-10-2008, 10:53 PM
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While youre at it put in an automatic primary chain tensioner from HD along with a new chain. Do check your stator for damage from the bolt though.
 
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Old 09-13-2008, 04:54 PM
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Default Primary chain replacement

Thanks for all the advice. It's too late to consider gear drive cams this time around, but I am following other posts on the subject in case I keep this bike long term. I'm hoping to get more than 22,000 miles out of all my new parts. No one seems to know the history of this bike, except it appears that the previous owner spent more time acquiring "zombie" covers and other shiny bits than on routine maintenance.

Bagman1 -- how do you check the stator, other than a basic visual inspection?
 
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Old 09-14-2008, 11:29 AM
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Roadhog,
Aside from the visual inspection which you would be looking for wire damage to the coiled wires like from the bolt hitting the coil and breaking one ofthe wires which would create an open and your charging system wont work. If you had no charging issues before you took the primary apart you more than likely are ok.
To check the stator you would unplug the voltage regulator where in goes in by the oil filter. Using a digital ohm meter take a reading across the three pin connectors in the case. A manual is a must have, it explains it in greater detail. This is just the cliff notes.

The procedure is to check continuity across the 3 stator contacts and a GOOD ground. A good stator will show infinate ohms between stator socket and gnd, a bad one will show continuity between socket and gnd.
My 07 FL book specs are;
Open stator=With ign off check across pins 1+2, 2+3, 1+3 resistance should be less than 1 ohm (typically 0.1-0.3
If more than 1 ohm stator is open= replace

AC Output= Disconnect V/R connect a/c voltmeter across any 2 stator connector wires, run the engine at 2000 rpms. A?C VOLTAGE should be between 30-40 VOLTS A.C.
Repeat the ac voltage test across the other two stator wires in the same manner.
If below specs could be a faulty rotor or stator.
Recheck again after replacement.

Im sure youre ok as I said if the charging was ok when you last drove it, you just need to check for damaged coil, visually look for copper showing the insulation.
I quoted the book for you, if you want to print it, you can keep it for reference.
 
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Old 09-21-2008, 08:33 PM
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Default Primary chain replacement

Thanks for the stator test procedures Bagman1. I haven't noticed any change in battery charge or electrical drain, however, that's just from general observation. I will use your testing methods if I start having problems. I've put about 200 miles on my bike since I rescued it from my local independent shop. My new Andrews TW26A cams, Jim's lifters and adjustable pushrods seem to be working just fine with a noticeable increase in torque. I still have a slight chatter from the forward area of the bike during slow deceleration, but it may just be my imagination. I will spend some time tightening bolts to see if I can isolate the cause.

I was hoping my gas mileage would improve after having this work done, however, I am still averaging only 36 miles per gallon. Doesn't seem to matter whether riding solo, 2 up, fully loaded, highway or normal driving. 36 mpg seems to be about the best I can get. From what I am reading on other posts, my bike should be averaging somewhere between 40 to 46 mpg. I bought the bike with after-market pipes that I can't identify, which my local shop described as "moderately" less restrictive. It also has a screamin' eagle air filter which I believe is also less restrictive than stock, however, I think that's about the extent of any mods from stock. I don't believe my bike would set any horsepower records and I wouldn't even say that I have loads of torque, so I am guessing that either my bike runs great but is sadly out of tune, or the few mods that have been done to the bike are grossly mismatched, resulting in poor mpg. Can you guys give me some guidance on where to start looking for better mileage?
 
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Old 10-02-2009, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bagman1
While youre at it put in an automatic primary chain tensioner from HD along with a new chain. Do check your stator for damage from the bolt though.
bagman1 -
A while back you advised me to check my stator for possible damage from a loose primary tensioner bolt. You were so right! I recently had to replace my stator, and although I can't rule out regular wear and tear, I suspect you were right about the damage all along. Good call! It's really nice to have a fully-functioning charging system again!
 


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