HQ 107 or 113 Sport Touring Build
#1
11-23-2008, 08:26 AM
HQ 107 or 113 Sport Touring Build
HQ 107 or 113 Sport Touring Build
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Well, I've come to that point again. I've had my 08 for a year and 13000 miles with the SE Stage II 103 and I'm feeling the pull for more power. I've done this with every bike, but have always ended up doing some form of SE build with SE Heads, Woods cams etc. This time I really want to get it right
and will be calling Doug or Kevin Monday. In the meantime I just have a couple of quiestions:
-With the 107 or 113 Sport Performance kit, how necessary is it to replace the stock throttle body or injectors? How necessary is it to replace the stock crank, or anything else for that matter that doesn't come in the kit? (clutches etc)
-Would anyone reccomend the lower compression 107" 10-1 CR version in the 107" to the 10:5-1? Any less need for additional parts outside of the kit with the lower CR build?
-If money isn't an issue, is there any reason why I would go with the 107" vs the 113"?
Thanks in advance!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well, I've come to that point again. I've had my 08 for a year and 13000 miles with the SE Stage II 103 and I'm feeling the pull for more power. I've done this with every bike, but have always ended up doing some form of SE build with SE Heads, Woods cams etc. This time I really want to get it right
and will be calling Doug or Kevin Monday. In the meantime I just have a couple of quiestions:
-With the 107 or 113 Sport Performance kit, how necessary is it to replace the stock throttle body or injectors? How necessary is it to replace the stock crank, or anything else for that matter that doesn't come in the kit? (clutches etc)
-Would anyone reccomend the lower compression 107" 10-1 CR version in the 107" to the 10:5-1? Any less need for additional parts outside of the kit with the lower CR build?
-If money isn't an issue, is there any reason why I would go with the 107" vs the 113"?
Thanks in advance!
#2
11-23-2008, 09:06 AM
this my second HQs motor -- had 103 on my 07 SG now have 107 on my 08 RG, I was with Kevin yesterday at Stn Mtn HD -- he will disuss what you want out of your build and dirrect in the way you need to go; he may even recommend going with someone else. Both are at 10.5/1 compression--i would go with the higher compression. Easy start no problems with either runs all day strong -- both will get sideways http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tduqULzye_k in a hurry -- clutch induced wheelies no problem (you can do this with the 113 without the clutch)
He and Doug are straight up honest guys and will not steer you wrong.
having said the above you may or may not need crank work for 107 or less--if the crank is within acceptable tolerance you won't need it--it is a must to get the crank run out checked.
Anything above 107 will need crank work -- most stock cranks cannot handle the additional torque.
If you go above the 107 might as well get the 120 (difference in cost is minimal)-- there is a 120 RG up Stn Mtn HD it is a docile as kitten -- hit the gas all hell breaks lose.
Post this over in the engine section; you will get a head full (or more) of info.
you may also want to talk to Dalton and PhilM both have HQs 120.
Anything above 107 will cost a lot more due to the crank work involved.
HQs is known for the torque their motors put out -- I have not dyno'ed my bike it was not
necessary due to me having the HQs pro tuner. My 103 was 105 hp 115 tq--this was with a so so tune
Darkhorse can do the entire set up for the crank and holban (?)
He and Doug are straight up honest guys and will not steer you wrong.
having said the above you may or may not need crank work for 107 or less--if the crank is within acceptable tolerance you won't need it--it is a must to get the crank run out checked.
Anything above 107 will need crank work -- most stock cranks cannot handle the additional torque.
If you go above the 107 might as well get the 120 (difference in cost is minimal)-- there is a 120 RG up Stn Mtn HD it is a docile as kitten -- hit the gas all hell breaks lose.
Post this over in the engine section; you will get a head full (or more) of info.
you may also want to talk to Dalton and PhilM both have HQs 120.
Anything above 107 will cost a lot more due to the crank work involved.
HQs is known for the torque their motors put out -- I have not dyno'ed my bike it was not
necessary due to me having the HQs pro tuner. My 103 was 105 hp 115 tq--this was with a so so tune
Darkhorse can do the entire set up for the crank and holban (?)
HQ 107 or 113 Sport Touring Build
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well, I've come to that point again. I've had my 08 for a year and 13000 miles with the SE Stage II 103 and I'm feeling the pull for more power. I've done this with every bike, but have always ended up doing some form of SE build with SE Heads, Woods cams etc. This time I really want to get it right
and will be calling Doug or Kevin Monday. In the meantime I just have a couple of quiestions:
-With the 107 or 113 Sport Performance kit, how necessary is it to replace the stock throttle body or injectors? How necessary is it to replace the stock crank, or anything else for that matter that doesn't come in the kit? (clutches etc)
-Would anyone reccomend the lower compression 107" 10-1 CR version in the 107" to the 10:5-1? Any less need for additional parts outside of the kit with the lower CR build?
-If money isn't an issue, is there any reason why I would go with the 107" vs the 113"?
Thanks in advance!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well, I've come to that point again. I've had my 08 for a year and 13000 miles with the SE Stage II 103 and I'm feeling the pull for more power. I've done this with every bike, but have always ended up doing some form of SE build with SE Heads, Woods cams etc. This time I really want to get it right
and will be calling Doug or Kevin Monday. In the meantime I just have a couple of quiestions:
-With the 107 or 113 Sport Performance kit, how necessary is it to replace the stock throttle body or injectors? How necessary is it to replace the stock crank, or anything else for that matter that doesn't come in the kit? (clutches etc)
-Would anyone reccomend the lower compression 107" 10-1 CR version in the 107" to the 10:5-1? Any less need for additional parts outside of the kit with the lower CR build?
-If money isn't an issue, is there any reason why I would go with the 107" vs the 113"?
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by lkr0; 11-23-2008 at 09:08 AM.
#3
11-23-2008, 09:11 AM
F Y I -- i had 24,500 + miles when I traded it in -- never a problem with the motor
this my second HQs motor -- had 103 on my 07 SG now have 107 on my 08 RG, I was with Kevin yesterday at Stn Mtn HD -- he will disuss what you want out of your build and dirrect in the way you need to go; he may even recommend going with someone else. Both are at 10.5/1 compression--i would go with the higher compression. Easy start no problems with either runs all day strong -- both will get sideways http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tduqULzye_k in a hurry -- clutch induced wheelies no problem (you can do this with the 113 without the clutch)
He and Doug are straight up honest guys and will not steer you wrong.
having said the above you may or may not need crank work for 107 or less--if the crank is within acceptable tolerance you won't need it--it is a must to get the crank run out checked.
Anything above 107 will need crank work -- most stock cranks cannot handle the additional torque.
If you go above the 107 might as well get the 120 (difference in cost is minimal)-- there is a 120 RG up Stn Mtn HD it is a docile as kitten -- hit the gas all hell breaks lose.
Post this over in the engine section; you will get a head full (or more) of info.
you may also want to talk to Dalton and PhilM both have HQs 120.
Anything above 107 will cost a lot more due to the crank work involved.
HQs is known for the torque their motors put out -- I have not dyno'ed my bike it was not
necessary due to me having the HQs pro tuner. My 103 was 105 hp 115 tq--this was with a so so tune
Darkhorse can do the entire set up for the crank and holban (?)
He and Doug are straight up honest guys and will not steer you wrong.
having said the above you may or may not need crank work for 107 or less--if the crank is within acceptable tolerance you won't need it--it is a must to get the crank run out checked.
Anything above 107 will need crank work -- most stock cranks cannot handle the additional torque.
If you go above the 107 might as well get the 120 (difference in cost is minimal)-- there is a 120 RG up Stn Mtn HD it is a docile as kitten -- hit the gas all hell breaks lose.
Post this over in the engine section; you will get a head full (or more) of info.
you may also want to talk to Dalton and PhilM both have HQs 120.
Anything above 107 will cost a lot more due to the crank work involved.
HQs is known for the torque their motors put out -- I have not dyno'ed my bike it was not
necessary due to me having the HQs pro tuner. My 103 was 105 hp 115 tq--this was with a so so tune
Darkhorse can do the entire set up for the crank and holban (?)
#5
11-23-2008, 09:24 AM
Kevin has a little corner at Stn Mtn HD, he has taught those mech's how to build and tune motors -- don't rule out crate motors --- S&S 124 is really not that bad (cost wise) if you factor in selling your current motor
#6
11-24-2008, 08:46 AM
When I built the bagger I went with the 124" S&S crate motor. I'm not a fan of the Jims 120" crate motor only because it comes with chain driven cams. I would do the same if I did it again. A motor swap is an option.
Whatever you decide, I'd recomment one thing to keep in mind, and I'm not trying to start a debate here, "bigger is always better". This is especically true with the baggers. There is no substitute for cubic inches. The twincam has proven VERY reliable up through 124" and now builders are starting to go bigger.
If you decide to keep your stock cases you should have the timken conversion done to the left side.
Whatever you decide, I'd recomment one thing to keep in mind, and I'm not trying to start a debate here, "bigger is always better". This is especically true with the baggers. There is no substitute for cubic inches. The twincam has proven VERY reliable up through 124" and now builders are starting to go bigger.
If you decide to keep your stock cases you should have the timken conversion done to the left side.
#7
11-24-2008, 09:32 AM
Ultimate HDF Member
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#8
11-24-2008, 09:47 AM
Glider - Lyn has given you good advice. When you call HQ - Call Kevin. Don't even bother trying to get Doug on the phone. He is not taking calls at the shop any more. Kevin handles all of that and handles it well in my opinion. I have talked to him a couple of times.
Even though the 113 uses the same stroke as your current engine, I would still send it out for truing and welding. Darkhorse (aka Hoban Brothers - Same shop) seems to be about as good as they come. The other option would be to purchase an S&S or JIMS 4 3/8 flywheel assy and replace it yourself (or whoever is doing the work). Either way, the engine has to come out for case boring of the 4.060 cylinders so R&R of the flywheel is required no matter what on the 113.
The HQ120 and a complete 124 area also good options.
Good luck on whatever you decide on.
Zach
Even though the 113 uses the same stroke as your current engine, I would still send it out for truing and welding. Darkhorse (aka Hoban Brothers - Same shop) seems to be about as good as they come. The other option would be to purchase an S&S or JIMS 4 3/8 flywheel assy and replace it yourself (or whoever is doing the work). Either way, the engine has to come out for case boring of the 4.060 cylinders so R&R of the flywheel is required no matter what on the 113.
The HQ120 and a complete 124 area also good options.
Good luck on whatever you decide on.
Zach
#9
11-24-2008, 12:11 PM
Extreme HDF Member
Kevin is a good friend of mine and I've had a lot of conversations with him about my options for a build, though since my bike is an 88", and I intend to keep it, the choice are slightly different.
You can use the stock throttle body and injectors for any of the 107", 113", and 120" packages. The 120" HQ build mentioned by Lyn at Stone Mountain HD is the owner's bike, an '09 Road Glide, and it used the stock TB and injectors. Incidentally, the techs who rode that bike said it was quieter and smoother than a stock '09, but was, literally, scary powerful--so much so that the owner, who hadn't ridden the bike yet but who has had many other "built" Harleys, should be warned to take it easy with it.
The clutch issue depends in part on how your ride. A stiffer spring is needed for the 107", but VPC or other is needed for 113"/120" engines.
There isn't a cost savings going 10:1 versus 10.5:1 in parts.
PM Dalton (Guy), PhilM, and Hotpursuit (Rob) about their 120" HQ builds; Asuperheat (Chris) about the 113". Kevin's '06 EG is a 113" and so is Doug's bagger. Kevin recently did a 107" HQ for his dad's '08 Anniversary Ultra. Point is, you can't go wrong which ever you decide on.
For me, I'm very leary of going with a 120" HQ build simply because I don't have any experience with that kind of power--150 ft. lbs of torque at 3000 rpm is an awful lot of power on two wheels, so it takes some skill to use it safely--skill I don't presently have.
I've ridden with Kevin a lot since his 113" build and while it is extremely powerful by any "normal" standard, it is a bit less intimidating than the 120". Funny thing, Kevin keeps asking me to ride his bike and I keep turning him down 'cause I don't trust myself--testosterone poisoning can strike me even as a senior rider.
Good luck with your choice
You can use the stock throttle body and injectors for any of the 107", 113", and 120" packages. The 120" HQ build mentioned by Lyn at Stone Mountain HD is the owner's bike, an '09 Road Glide, and it used the stock TB and injectors. Incidentally, the techs who rode that bike said it was quieter and smoother than a stock '09, but was, literally, scary powerful--so much so that the owner, who hadn't ridden the bike yet but who has had many other "built" Harleys, should be warned to take it easy with it.
The clutch issue depends in part on how your ride. A stiffer spring is needed for the 107", but VPC or other is needed for 113"/120" engines.
There isn't a cost savings going 10:1 versus 10.5:1 in parts.
PM Dalton (Guy), PhilM, and Hotpursuit (Rob) about their 120" HQ builds; Asuperheat (Chris) about the 113". Kevin's '06 EG is a 113" and so is Doug's bagger. Kevin recently did a 107" HQ for his dad's '08 Anniversary Ultra. Point is, you can't go wrong which ever you decide on.
For me, I'm very leary of going with a 120" HQ build simply because I don't have any experience with that kind of power--150 ft. lbs of torque at 3000 rpm is an awful lot of power on two wheels, so it takes some skill to use it safely--skill I don't presently have.
I've ridden with Kevin a lot since his 113" build and while it is extremely powerful by any "normal" standard, it is a bit less intimidating than the 120". Funny thing, Kevin keeps asking me to ride his bike and I keep turning him down 'cause I don't trust myself--testosterone poisoning can strike me even as a senior rider.
Good luck with your choice
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