Idle hands do the Devil's work. Since it's winter, I closely reviewed the other posts on this subject, and tackled the project myself.

Reminds me of what my old Clymer Manual said when you referenced changing the headlight bulb in an FJ1200. "Step 1: Remove the upper fairing as listed in Chapter 5. Step 2: Change the bulb. Step 3 is reverse of Step 1." I always wanted to meet the author of that so I could remove his/her eyes with a fork as listed in the Jonny Cannon Manual Chapter 5.

I already had my controls apart since I further tortured myself by converting them all to chrome. Taking the outer off is simple. 4 bolts. Oh yes, let's not discuss the joys of buying a used bike. I'm surprised my outer fairing stayed attached over the last 10,000 miles, since it didn't have any lower screws. Only 2 out of 4 were present. Yeesh.

It came off easy enough, though. I wrapped rags around my running lights so they wouldn't scratch the outer when I pulled it forward to disconnect the headlight.

Next step (and I love this in the factory manual) says "Remove the Fairing Cap & Ignition Switch as listed in Chapter 8". I wonder if the same author works on the side for Clymer.

Anyhoo, kudos to whomever it was that suggested the small flathead to defeat the interlock to get the ignition cap off. Here's my advice - if you follow the manual, it says to lock the forks. This will present you with a special surprise if you do it - take the ignition apart, forget that you locked the forks, and then try to continue the removal. I don't know anyone who ever did that - I'm just saying, is all. I managed to get it back together to release the fork lock. If this bike starts afterwards, I'll be amazed.

So, that's all off. Then comes the wonderful task of disconnecting the 95 (estimate) electrical connections. Oh wait - first you have to take the light bar & chrome front skirt off.

Once I got everything disconnected, it was quite a task to wrestle the inner fairing off the radio and out. I'm going to have to be pretty gentle when I re-install the new painted one.

I took a ton of pictures & digital video throughout the project, and everything is labelled, along with all removed hardware in labelled styrofoam cups. Once it's painted, I'll post of my further exciting adventures of re-installing everything. I'm sure I'll for sure need all 4 outer fairing bolts to hold things together once I jam that rat's nest of wiring back in.

I indeed plan to install Hog Tunes speakers in the fronts while I'm at it. I was going to change out the gauges for the spun metal ones, but someone posted there's a glare issue. Aside from that, there's a $$$ issue. To do the replacement, you wouldn't be far off from the Dakota Digital jobbie for $1200.00 or whatever it retails for. I was considering that switch, but I'm wondering what the digital gauges look like with the radio staying stock.

Anyways, that's my rant for the evening.

Cannon

 

Excellent rant! I, for one, enjoyed it. Wanna' see the pix when your project is done.

 

The Dakota digital gauges look great with the radio. If you go that route you will be very happy.

 

FWIW...old socks (or new ones if the wife don't catcha!) fit nicely over the running lights and tend to stay put for the duration. Nice rant BTW! Can't wait to see the new paint!

 

 

Not a factory radio but lets you see how nice they are. I purchased mine for under 1K. Install was easy.

 

From Where???? I really want those!

 

Good stuff Cannon, I'm right behind you except it's on a really ugly RG.
The part I'm worried about is the ignition switch.

Look forward to seeing your finished result.

 

How did the Hog-tunes install go? Was it truely plug & play? Great dash by the way.

 

JC.

Remove the radio from the inner. its really easy. It just wiggles and slips out. Makes it MUCH easier to manhandle the inner around.

Tim