Why don't I leave good enough alone? Well, a cam change is a relatively simple operation on a TC96, and now that I have a PCV-AT I no longer have to worry about tuning a new configuration. So, thanks to a forum member selling his slightly used but perfect SE 255 cams I was able to make the change for $285 including Timkin inner bearings, inner-bearing installer/removal tool, and the HD cam-install kit. My theory was that I would get a meaningful performance jump for very little money. Well, it pretty much went according to plan, except it took much longer than expected, one full day plus part of another while I expected it to take about 1/2 day.

I didn't take photos and won't go into the gory details, as the service manual does a very good job of this. I would like to make some comments that may not be emphasized enough or at all in the manual:

1. After removing the cam cover, align the primary cam and crankshaft pulleys (line up the dots), as this will simplify the re-install.

2. There's no need to go through the manual's elaborate procedure to unload the valve springs. Just remove the sparkplugs, jack the bike up, and rotate the engine 'til both lifters on a given cylinder are at their lowest point. It is off the cam lobe when the pushrod can be rotated by hand after the lifter has bled down after a few minutes. Before removing the rocker plate both valve springs for that cylinder must be unloaded.

2. The two oil-line o-rings in the cam chest that link up to the cam plate need to be double-checked for correct placement. If they are pinched or fall out while re-installing the cam plate you will get sumping (oil accumulation in the crankcase) and will need to disassemble everything again to fix it.

3. The current engine has "native-metal" outer bearings and these require no tools to remove and install the cams in the cam plate, but replacing the inner needle bearings is standard procedure. Instead of using the INA bearings in the HD cam-install kit, go to a bearing supply house and buy some Torrington (Timkin) B-168 bearings, which have double the number of needles and are much stronger. They may not be necessary, but for $15 more for two bearings including shipping why not do it for the peace of mind?

4. I bought a removal/install tool for the TC96 (1") bearings here, and it is a quality instrument that made the process a breeze. It is also the cheapest such tool I found at $96 including shipping, insurance, and Paypal fees. He also has tools for Evos and early TC's.

5. Make a checklist and put a check mark on each item in the procedure when performed. The reason? At 5am the next morning after putting everything back together I couldn't recall if I tightened the breather plate bolts on top the rocker plate. So, that morning I removed the rocker covers again to make sure. They were tightened, but my mind was a blank slate. If I had not checked I would worry about it every day thereafter, and had I done the checklist this wouldn't have been necessary.

6. Before re-installing the cam plate, make sure the oil pump parts are in place and flush against the pump housing. Be sure to follow the instructions in the manual on centering the oil pump when tightening the cam-plate bolts, which is easy and quick. Some don't do this but I wouldn't skip this step.

7. The manual dictates that you must remove the fuel tank, but all you need to do it jack it up an inch or two. Remove the three bolts and pull it up, held in place by whatever you have. I used wood blocks. This doesn't hamper access to the rocker area bolts, at least not too much. The biggest impediment in working in the rocker area is the frame, once the tank is raised.

I decided to reuse the stock pushrods to save $125 or more on adjustables, and buying these may be the one thing I would do if I had to do it over again. Removing the front header of the exhaust system is necessary either way and I had to loosen or remove practically the entire caboodle to get the front header pipe out. This was the least fun part of the job, as these pipes don't want to cooperate coming apart or going back together. Using penetrant helps greatly. Removing the rocker covers and rocker plates was also a PITA because several bolts were very inaccessible. It's not rocket science but is a very tedious operation, and there's no way to get a TQ wrench on some of these bolts. Using adjustable pushrods would eliminate the need to remove the rocker covers and plates.

Now, was the cam change worth the trouble? The result was exactly as I expected after reading forum threads for months and talking to people who had this cam installed. The only thing that was not expected is that it is so quiet in the top-end, with lifter/valve noise no greater than stock. Here are some observations:

1. Jamie at Fuel Moto told me the cam would feel "abrupt" and "would take some getting used to." Well, he was right on the money with that comment. With the very early close of the intake valve the CCP of this cam is higher, creating more combustion pressure at low RPM's, so a slight blip of the throttle causes the bike to move and quick, quite different from the relatively soft feel of the stock cam. I'm already used to it and do not consider it a problem.

2. Power across the RPM range is greater than stock, as you would expect, and my butt dyno tells me the TQ curve is every bit as flat as before, only power output is greater. I would say it is exactly what I was looking for, a cam that would move my TQ/HP curve up but not to the right. I'm not concerned (too much) with performance above 4K, and this cam does peak at about 5K, holding HP up to 5.5K, and starts to decline above that. As I said the feel and performance enhancement was exactly what I expected and wanted. It won't win points with the racer crowd, but for a heavy touring bike with tall gears it's just what the doctor ordered, IMO.

3. Exhaust tone is different (better, more aggressive) and also a bit louder, both of which I expected.

4. I expected detonation issues since CCP is higher than before, but even with my lean map installed I have heard nothing. It may be that after the weather warms I'll need to do some ignition-timing changes on the PCV in the cruise range.

The only negative is that the job took much longer than I anticipated but probably would take no more than one day if I had to do it again. Having helper(s) is not essential but worthwhile if you can get one or two, especially for a few steps of the process. It took about 1½ days out of my life, but I learned a lot (important) and did the whole job for very little money.

 

iClick, excellent write up and probably one of the most informative descriptions of the difference the cam made that I have read.

Thanks

 

Lol. You can't leave it alone for the same reason none of us can either.....

Good writeup. Glad you are pleased with the swap. I'll also agree with the "abrupt" part, especially at low rpm. Seems to smooth out a bit after the engine is warm.

Regarding the PITA part, I just knew I didn't want to mess with pulling the rocker covers to keep the stock push rods. Well worth the $130 or whatever it was from Zanotti's, IMO. Sounds like you might do the same thing next time. One other thing that made mine easier was having the V&H Big Shots on there. No messing with the crossover for the rear cylinder. Undo 5 bolts (plus the floorboard) and the right side slips right off.

Anyway, congrats again.

 

Congrats. This writeup is exactly why I come to this forum.

 

ICLICK! Awesome write-up...that's what this forum is all about! Glad ya liek it and it now gives me another idea to spend money on!

Ride Safe, Mike

 

So, the SE 255 cam is also chain drive, as is the stock cam, correct? So if you put in a chain drive cam, all you need is the cam and a cam install kit, correct? I'm thinking of going with the Woods TW6-6 in an '09 RG. Am I on the right track? Good write-up Iclick!

 

I would say you're on the right track. The later chain drive system is much stronger than the previous system and as such, is just fine without having to go to gear drive. As iclick mentioned, adjustable pushrods will also avoid the need to take off the rocker boxes.

 

iclick, can you mention where you purchased the specialized tools that you needed, they sound like a good price?

Thanks

 

I agree with the other posters on the board good write up and explanation. I am the current holder of a 2008 UGC and want some low end torque to move my wife and i from 0 to 60 quicker. Totally stock now but am interested in a cam or gearing swap. Any reason why you went to the cam instead of going to a 300 tooth gear

 

I mentioned the source of the inner-bearing removal/install tools in the earlier post. Here it is again:

Tools

This is the only specialized tool that you'll need, but you'll also need the usual stuff like sockets, Allens, Torx, open-end/box-end wrenches, torque wrenches (in/lb. and ft./lb.), etc.