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Touring Models Road King, Road King Custom, Road King Classic, Road Glide, Street Glide, Electra Glide, Electra Glide Classic, and Electra Glide Ultra Classic bikes.
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  #1  
Old 03-26-2009, 11:58 AM
classic53 classic53 is offline
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Default Changing rear tire on 07 FLHTC

Okay, I have a question for the all knowing members here. I am getting ready to change the rear tire on the scoot, a 07 electra glide classic. What is the best way to insure that the alignment is good afterwards? This one thing has me concerned on doing it myself.

Thanks for all that answer.

Ride safe and keep the rubber side down
07 FLHTC rider
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:01 PM
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The touring bikes have a cam mechanism on the axle, so there really isn't any alignment to worry about. Just make sure you get the secondary drive belt set right and you'll be good to go. Don't forget to use neverseize on your axle during re-assembly.
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:14 PM
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I marked the rear cam tensioner with a a Blk marker and piece of blue tape on the frame this way u have a idea where your adjustment was before u started..I have the tool to test belt tension the belt but was always within specsusing this mehod...
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:41 PM
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I had concerns about this as well. But after doin it, it was easy. The only adjustment is on the left side, right side follows. As stated above mark your cam in relation to swing arm before you start. It's really pretty easy........
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:44 PM
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Changed mine last week on the 06 uc for the first time. Like the others have said the alignment is not a problem. I did find pulling off the rhineharts made it easier for a one man operation. No problems getting the axle and tire out, easier getting the belt back on, and can use a regular torque wrench for the axle nut.
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:52 PM
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You'll need two 36mm sockets (like these), or one socket and some other means to hold the left (bolt) side while torquing the nut. I have Progressive shocks and can't fit a large crescent wrench to hold the bolt, so I bought two sockets from Sears and a short (2') cheater bar from Harbor Freight Tools. Standing to the rear of the bike I hold the left side with the cheater bar and torque with my right hand. Having two people would be easier, but a second person isn't usually around at those times. It is a hassle, as once you have the belt adjusted properly if the bolt moves during torquing it will mess up that adjustment and you'll have to start over. It isn't easy applying 100 ft/lbs of TQ with your right hand while applying equal pressure in the opposite direction with your left.

Like 07JakeelwoodHD I marked my axle cam position on the frame, but I used red fingernail polish (the same shade I use on my toenails ), one small dot on both the cam and frame to show the position for proper belt adjustment.

Warning: Watch for a small rubber bumper on the front part of the brake-caliper housing. When you remove the housing that bumper will not be in the right place when you replace the housing unless you make an effort to position it properly. This is not even mentioned in the service manual to check this!
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Old 03-26-2009, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iclick View Post
... Standing to the rear of the bike I hold the left side with the cheater bar and torque with my right hand. Having two people would be easier, but a second person isn't usually around at those times. It is a hassle, as once you have the belt adjusted properly if the bolt moves during torquing it will mess up that adjustment and you'll have to start over. It isn't easy applying 100 ft/lbs of TQ with your right hand while applying equal pressure in the opposite direction with your left.

...
Every time I do that I say I'm going to get that gizmo that holds the axle for you. But I never do.

I cannot find the link to it. It's just a piece of plate steel with a 36mm hex cut out and a long set screw you adjust to prevent the axle from rotating while you torque the nut.
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Old 03-26-2009, 04:51 PM
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You may want to make sure you have the right wrenches, I use two 12" cresent wrenches and my right arm is my torque but I know there are those that have to get it to exactly 95-105 lbs. The kit has one in it but can't get much leverage with it.
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Old 03-26-2009, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BugBYter View Post
It's just a piece of plate steel with a 36mm hex cut out and a long set screw you adjust to prevent the axle from rotating while you torque the nut.
Didn't your Ultra come with one of these in the tool kit ?
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Old 03-27-2009, 08:28 AM
classic53 classic53 is offline
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Morning everybody,
As usual, you are all the wizards for something this simple. Especially that rubber bumper on the brake caliper.

Thanks to all for answering. It is greatly appreciated! You people are truly family!!!

Ride safe and keep the rubber side down
07 FLHTC rider
Ride free and PROUD
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2013 FLSTC (Heritage Softail Classic)
Stage I-Screaming Eagle Hi flow air filter, Screaming Eagle Tuner, Rinehart 2 into 2 exhaust
Stage II
Coming soon
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Old 03-27-2009, 08:28 AM
 
 
 
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