I'm re-doing some wiring for the bag lights and relocating the connector for my tour pac. Are there any tricks using these connectors?



Thanks in advance..

Tom

 

No tricks per se. They are very well explained in the HD Service Manual in the appendix section at the back.

The pins/sockets need to be carefully crimped. Requires two crimps: one to secure the bare wire and a second to secure the insulated portion. The first crimp is a "B" shaped crimp and needs to be done carefully to allow the locking mechanism to function correctly to hold the pin/socket inside the connector.

Good luck with your project.

PS: If you don't have one, consider a Philmore WS 26 crimping tool ($7.99 at Fry's Electronics) or, better, Sargent crimp tool, BCT-1, $25 from Great Plains Electronics. The latter is a ratchet-type crimp tool and includes not only the "B" crimp, but the barrel crimp for the insulated wire crimp. Here's a good write-up with pics on what's involved:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.../matenlok.html

 

Thank You very much!!

This explains alot.

Tom

 

I ordered my connectors direct from the company off the internet and they loaned me the crimper for I think it was 30 days for free.

 

I use the Deutsch DTm Series lots. I have never tried the aforementioned crimpers. I bought these type which costs around $260. They work way different than the ones above. To get this result I use the crimper below and in the center only

 

I recently replaced my speedo and needed that middle crimper. I ended up buying a used one off Ebay and reselling it on Ebay. Cost me about $40-mostly in Ebay and PayPal fees, but the crimper worked perfectly for the solid barrel style duetsch pins.

 

FWIW, I just did a project w/ the 4 pin deutsch connectors. I got my harness all ready to go, pulled my wires through the proper holes for my project, and brought the wire harness, pin terminals and everything down to the HD dealer and explained I just needed 2 wires crimped and asked if they could help me, since the crimping tools are hard to come by.

Dealer number 1 said no problem, service manager took it in the back, and I think he did it himself, and apparently did not know what he was doing, they came back w/ both crimps on the insulation, and the wire stuffed up inside the pin. Rather than argue w/ them over something they did for free, I smiled and left and went to dealer number 2.

Dealer number 2 said be right back, about 10 minutes later (after tech had a minute I guess) guy comes out w/ the job done and the wires tucked back into the connector. After getting home, I got a pin to pull back the tab and pull out the terminals to confirm they were done correctly, which they were, so I was good to go.

So yeah, I spent some time and gas, but other than that, no cost.

Now, if you can't take your harness off the bike and need to crimp it on the bike for some reason, then you need to find a good crimper. I never thought about it until just now, but I wonder if some of those tool rental places might have these things?

All I know is there were none at any of the stores I could think of, and since there were so many different kinds online, I wasn't sure which one I needed anyway, hated to spend that much money and it not work out, so I tried the free dealer favor route.

YMMV.

 

I used a 4 pin so I could plug my minitach in the data port. I also used a 2 pin to have a removeable hardwire for the GPS.
I soldered the pins and crimped the insulation tabs with a regular wire crimper.

 

Great information. I've been looking for an economical way to do this myself, since I'm my mechanic. I can't justify $200 for a crimping tool.

 

Harlypman

Those are Molex connectors in your link not the same as Deutsch.


I am an acft electrician and these are crimped the same as what is used in Cannon, Amphenol and Amp which s used in acft. Luckily I have a set of Daniels crimpers I got off eBay for cheap and does the same job.