Just thought I'd share some recent experiences here. Anyone else have to re-aim their's after removing the outer fairing? The tips on keeping the bucket off to be able to hook the housing are all valid, but I'll add backing off the aiming screws before snapping the bucket in makes sure it's in tight. This could go into bad dealer/good dealer or other forums, but here it is: The manual reads: insert a 4.5mm deepwell and a 1/4" drive flex. Nobody had a 4.5 in-stock, I already owned a 4, 5, 5.5, 6, etc. after 5 stores (including a HD store who I'll never buy a bike from, told me the aim can only be done by them with the fairing off the bike!!!) I ended up at Sears. Craftsman doesn't even make a 4.5 deep, ordered an Armstrong through Sears.com. You would figure HD would make an "FLTR headlight aiming tool" with the 4.5mm sleeve attached to a screwdriver handle via snakeshaft, ala GM dwell adjustment tool, and charge a ridiculous amount! A few days after ordering, I was near my HD dealer and explained the situation. Out comes the shop manual with the Snap-on tool part numbers for the socket and U-joint and a sidenote: If 4.5 doesn't fit right, use a 3/16 deepwell! Now obviously, I own a 3/16! Sure enough, 4.72mm was enough to turn the screws and let me know I had to take the fairing off and back them down before re-installing and then just re-aim the lights! Why the MoCo doesn't just use the SAE 3/16 is beyond me.

 

It took me a night of searching the internet to find a 4.5 mm socket - It is a bunch of fun to adjust, no doubt.

 

I dont see why you have to remove the fairing to adjust, theres adjustment holes on the inner fairing.

 

That's the "bad dealer" part of the post. Yes there's the holes under the inner mount bracket bolts with the 4.5mm sleeves inside. It's even pictured in both the owner's manual and the shop manual! But the dealer stated that I can't DIY it and had to bring it to them!

 

That's bs. They just wanted some easy work and an hour of labor.

 

sorry man, it doesn't require a deep socket, and Sears sells a little set of 3 sockets that include 4, 4.5, and 5mm in 1/4" drive for about 5 bucks that work just fine (at least they did 2 years ago when I got mine).

and yes you get to the bottom adjusters without fairing removal, the top one has no access hole tho and if you need to tweak it the outer fairing has to come off... either way this is an easy DIY project. I just adjusted mine up till oncoming cars flashed their brights at me... then lowered them a little at a time till no one flashed at me anymore and I was done. thats my scientific method for setting my headlights.

 

Don't remember the tool I used but it took me less than 5 min to adjust mine.

 

They're just a little hard to reach while you're sitting on the bike. You can't help but lean when you turn the bars to get your hand in there. I, too, did the method of getting it close and then after riding and getting mirrors readjusted in the cagers tweaked the quarter-turn. But still, bottom line, you can get them to turn by using a 3/16 which just about everybody already owns!

 

I used the 3/16 socket and turned each adjuster up to 10 times each, but neither light moved up. any thoughts??

 

You can get (2) 1/4 drive deep well (You don't need deepwells to get on the adjuster BUT w/ deepweels no extensions are needed) and 2 1/4 drive ratchets at Lowes for around $12.
Some people around here just amaze me.