Okay folks: here's a VERY explicit question regarding the install of a set of Bat Wing Mini-Ape Handlebar - Chrome #57474-11 on a 2011 Street Glide.

[RANT]** SPECIAL REQUEST: if you DO NOT currently have THIS EXACT handlebar setup on your bagger, please DO NOT respond: I get it; you LOVE LOVE LOVE your other brand bards. However, I don't care if you run Yaffe, Wild Ones, Burly or any other brand. They are NOT this exact model, they are NOT the same measurements, they are NOT going to install the exact same way; close only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades! Also, please don't bother adding to your post count by chiming in with such info as "I don't run/like apes on a batwing" or "Go with "x" brand, you'll love them". It's not helpful for anyone who has the same question, and fills posts with uninformative responses negating the effectiveness of the "search" function. (Can you tell I've had a rotten experience with Sprint's customer service, shortening my already limited amount of patience? Apologies, but it's TRULY irritating to read posts where those with no experience about a part chime in for the sake of having their name on the internet. I don't add my unwanted/uninformed/inexperienced 2 cents- others need to learn the same restraint.) **[/RANT OFF]

My question is this: Frankly, what the heck else is needed?? The description states: "All models require separate purchase of additional components for installation." OE Style, SS Braided and Diamond Black lines show as "n/a"; the ONLY style with different part numbers for cables/lines are Diamondback parts. There are two different part numbers listed in the "GMA12_Handlebar_Installation_Requirements". One is PN: 3210-08 "Twist Grip Sensor Kit" and the other is the two part numbers for the hole plugs for the fairing mount mirrors (732, 2x and 755, 2x). Do the factory, OEM, as-sold-originally-on-the-ABS-equipped-bike brake lines, clutch cable and switch wiring ACTUALLY fit without any modification/new parts necessary? The SEARCH function yields little info in this regard- the best result I found, the person who showed pics of these particular bars installed never answered the questions about the wiring/cables.

Also- as for wrist angle on THIS PARTICULAR HANDLEBAR (again, not looking for info on Yaffee, Wild Ones, Burly, etc): is the angle flatter (more perpendicular to the fairing) than the factory wrist angle? And if so, are the bars narrower grip-to-grip than the Tallboy bar? (might have a tough time getting that answer)

Lastly, can the twist grip connection be made if one was to move the connector from up on the fairing support to under the radio?

ACTUAL OWNERS/USERS ONLY, please advise, and thanks in advance.

 

I have these bars and I am very happy with them. No complaints what so ever

You need to replace the clutch and brake lines. I bought the throttle by wire sensor but returned it because it wasn't needed. If you have abs you can get away with only ordering the upper brake line. You have to buy both it you don't have abs.

I will check this post from the computer and give more info. The different size fonts makes it really hard to read when on the mobile site.

 

I've got them, I like them but in hindsight I wish I'd have went with the 14" instead of 12" I'll have to check my build list from when I bought mine I had them install them when I bought the bike , plus I had stainless braided cables and brake lines installed.

 

Thanks for the responses guys...I wish HD would just plain put it in the parts catalog/website: "Buy THIS clutch cable and THIS brake line (w/ABS) or this brake line (wo/ABS) to complete installation".

Their installation chart is ridiculous since, as I mentioned, it doesn't offer any other part numbers except for their Diamondback parts- which are decorative replacements, not necessarily functionally necessary.

Cellison1460- are the bars wider grip-to-grip than the factory bars? And how 'flat' is the wrist angle on them? Got pics (either of you)?

Thanks!

 

I'm going with these bars as well. I've asked as well:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...mini-apes.html

From what I can gather you can use all the OE wires,cables, and hoses. But you have to reroute the clutch cable and upper bake line. You'll need a clutch cable that is 66 11/16 if you want to keep it in the fairing. Doesn't have to be a HD cable plenty of aftermarket ones out there. All the wires will work after you pull the slack.

Maybe you'll get some more help or you can check the one I have going to see if I get anymore. Or you can wait till after I do mine and I'll let ya know what I had to do.

 

Thanks for the info Craigffb!! I saw your post- I'll keep my eye on your progress. I'm not going to do the swap until the spring anyhow (if I go beyond the Tallboy bars I'm now running), so I'll have time to study your travails and get set to tackle the chore!

Thanks!!

 

No problem. I'll be doing mine way before that. I got the bike last week knowing I'd have to change the bars. Just waiting on parts and maintenance manual and the first fluid change. Swapping out all the engine chrome for wrinkle black at the same time cause I'll have to pull the tranny side cover anyway.

 

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...mini-apes.html
The wrist angle is flatter or closer to the flairing and drops down as well.
The width is widder at 37".

 

May I say,without ruffling your feathers,that I agree 100% with the first part of your post?

 

Go to Page 806 in the 2011 parts catalog and all the cables are listed.

The wrist angle I'd pretty flat and straight. The width is perfect shoulder width for any normal build American man.

The most of done in a day since the bars is 600 miles. No arm or shoulder pain the next day, I couldn't say that with the factory bars.

Once you get use to the new bars the bike is a lot easier to maneuver at low speed. You won't regret them. I'll work on pictures for you