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Touring Models Road King, Road King Custom, Road King Classic, Road Glide, Street Glide, Electra Glide, Electra Glide Classic, and Electra Glide Ultra Classic bikes.
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  #1  
Old 01-16-2010, 09:21 PM
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tmultra tmultra is offline
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Default change cam sensor?

I have a 1998 ultra classic. Before spring I think I need to change my cam position sensor. I am noticing what looks like clear plastic melting out of a small hole at the bottom of the cover. The bike is running fine right now but if that is the sensor melting I want to fix it before spring. Is this a difficult fix? Also the cover is rivited on would I be able to screw this cover back on or do I need to re rivet it? I have heard they are sealed rivets. Also my check engine light comes on when I turn the bike on goes off and comes back on for a few seconds and goes back off. Is there a way I can check the codes my self? I did just order a service manuel but trying to get an idea what I have to do.
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:33 PM
Harleyinnc Harleyinnc is offline
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If your cam sensor is melting it probably wouldn't work and your bike won't run. The cam cover is rivited to another plate thats screws into the nose cover. Just drill out the rivets and remove the plate. Then unscrew the other plate and tap the holes. then you can screw the plate back on insted of riveting it on. There is a way to get the trouble codes by turning the ignition on and off a few times waiting about 10 seconds between each. I forget the exact routine. It really won't do you any good though without the service manual to tell you what the code means
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:51 PM
CroK CroK is offline
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Turn key on, engine light comes on for four seconds and goes out. four seconds later it comes on again for 8 seconds then once more goes out and stays out... on my 99, that is the signal telling you there is "a functional error stored, (although no current code exists). A functional error indicates an internal problem with the ECM (trouble codes 52 through 55) or with the crankshaft or camshaft sensors/timing (trouble code 526)."

If the engine light stays on beyond the 8 seconds, then a current trouble code exists.

Codes stored in history can only be retrieved with the scanalyzer. You can retrieve current codes using the engine light itself by turning the ignition switch to the on position for three seconds, then off for three seconds. Do this twice... On 3 seconds, Off 3 seconds, On 3 seconds, Off 3 seconds and then back on. The engine light will begin flashing rapidly to signal that it is about to generate an existing trouble code.

After the initial rapid flashing (intermission) it will give a 2 second pause then generate the first digit of the code. Another 2 second pause then the second digit of the code is generated. 2 second pause then another rapid flashing (intermission). Count each flash after the intermission and log the number of flashes, do this for each digit as stated. Each code is separated by the rapid flashing (intermission), then a new code is generated. All subsequent codes are sent in the same manner, each separated by the intermission.

Once all codes have been sent, the data string is repeated. When you have recorded the same trouble code twice, it is an indication that the transmission has restarted and all trouble codes have been retrieved.

If the engine light flashes at a rate faster than normal, then you are observing the intermission only, there are no current trouble codes.

As I said in the beginning, that is for my '99 RK. Most likely pretty much the same with yours, but the service manual for your specific model and year would verify if that is true or not. Also, the manual has the trouble codes in it, with the associated fault condition(s).

Last edited by CroK; 01-16-2010 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 01-17-2010, 07:45 AM
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used on a 1998 road king classic with fuel injection..evo motor with M & M fuel injection.
does this work for you?:1-turn ignition key switch to ignition and then turn off 1 second after fuel pump stops.
2.repeat #1 again..remember 1 second after pump stops
3.turn ignition key switch to ignition and wait about 8 seconds for a bunch of flashing of the check engine light
it will then stop for 2 seconds..get ready... these are the codes you must count:
it will slowly flash 1,2,3,5....there is NO 4....this is the first digit of the 2 digit code ..so it can only be 1,2,3,5 __ __
then a 2 second pause...then you will get second digit of the 2 digit code..it can only be 1,2,3,4,5,6
remember after the complete 2 digit code is given you will go back to the rapid flash sequence..
there are a total of 15 codes available with this procedure
examples
52,53,54,55 bad news ECM replacement
56 crank/cam sensor
11 throttle sensor
12 barometric 14 engine temp. sensor 15 intake temp sensor
23 and 32 are injectors front/rear
24 coil
33 fuel pump relay--in this case you would not hear the pump but instead waited 3 seconds after the on / off sequence
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Old 01-17-2010, 07:59 AM
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here is a link to when i changed mine. In order to make job easier and to NOT have to remove muffler pipe that runs below timer cover I cut a very small piece of allen wrench and stuck it in the two allen bolts below timer cover that hold triangle shaped piece of metal that hold wire for sensor. The piece should stick out from allen bolt no more than maybe an 1/8 of an inch. Use small wrench to turn that little piece..reason for very small piece is that the bolt will get closer to pipe as you loosen. Took about 1 1/2 hours working really slow..no lift needed..no reset of timing required..tools =drill and two bits, phillips bit and large flat head bit for driver,allen bits and WD#40 to clean melted stuff from inside cone.
http://hdforums.com/forum/evo-classi...c-evo-inj.html
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Old 01-17-2010, 08:12 AM
im im is offline
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BUT before you start cut that little allen piece and place inside allen bolt and you could finish job a lot faster and locate smallest wrench that will fit allen.
If you want to reuse the V2 aluminum? note that cover shines up real nice if you strip the clear coating off..rivets are about $1 each at dealer.
To check codes use the method i provided above...to clear disconnect battery connection..The light coming on and then turning off after a while is a historic code..The bike probably farted,backfired or had a general bad start..very very common on this year..The melting is a very bad sign that the unit is dieing and is about to give-up the ghost..It could last a long time or die today..I would change it as soon as possible..Note that in the future you could still get a code #56 if you have a bad start but it won't be because of that unit..If you do not disconnect battery it will clear after about 50 start and stop engine cycles.
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Old 01-17-2010, 08:33 AM
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JimTJr JimTJr is offline
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On my 2000 FXST it isn't hard to change. (88ci twin cam) I don't know if it's the same as your 98.
Oh, and I think it will run with a bad CPS, I know, I rode mine with one. (Constant check engine light for that code) And someone else on here told me they will run with a bad CPS, but not a bad CRANK Position sensor. This was all back when I had my cam bearing go bad, and replaced it with the Andrews.
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Last edited by JimTJr; 01-17-2010 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 01-17-2010, 06:41 PM
CroK CroK is offline
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I figure he has the evo motor since the twin cam didn't come out until 99. That's what I read anyway...
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Old 01-18-2010, 01:24 PM
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tmultra tmultra is offline
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Thanks for the help guys. I got my service manual today and my bike is showing code 56 which is the cam position sensor like I suspected. I may just take it to the shop to have it fixed looks a little tough for me (not much of a mechanic). I did read on the post IM gave me that if its fuel injected which mine is that I dont have to worry about the timing which was my biggest concern from what I read in the manuel. If thats the case I may attempt it my self.
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Old 01-18-2010, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmultra View Post
Thanks for the help guys. I got my service manual today and my bike is showing code 56 which is the cam position sensor like I suspected. I may just take it to the shop to have it fixed looks a little tough for me (not much of a mechanic). I did read on the post IM gave me that if its fuel injected which mine is that I dont have to worry about the timing which was my biggest concern from what I read in the manuel. If thats the case I may attempt it my self.
Do it yourself! Just think of the money you will have left over for beer and lap dances that would have been wasted at the dealership. You already have the manual which includes the procedure, as well as several good tips for saving time and effort in this thread. If you need more help, it's right here.
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Old 01-18-2010, 01:46 PM
 
 
 
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1999, cam, change, clearing, codes, davidson, flhpi, fuel, harley, king, pump, road, sensor, slow, trouble, twin


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