I need to get a Torque Wrench, please help
#1
I need to get a Torque Wrench, please help
Hey gang,
For my SG, I just picked up the Four-Point Detachable Docking Hardware so that I can add a luggage rack and sissy bar.
I need to pick up a torque wrench and a socket kit for this project. The instructions says to tighten the TORX screws to 17 ft-lbs.
I've never owned a torque wrench so I'm not sure which type to purchase. I do know that I want a drive click type.
Can ya'll make some recommendations for me. Also, I wasn't aware that there are sockets for Torx screws.
Thanks!
For my SG, I just picked up the Four-Point Detachable Docking Hardware so that I can add a luggage rack and sissy bar.
I need to pick up a torque wrench and a socket kit for this project. The instructions says to tighten the TORX screws to 17 ft-lbs.
I've never owned a torque wrench so I'm not sure which type to purchase. I do know that I want a drive click type.
Can ya'll make some recommendations for me. Also, I wasn't aware that there are sockets for Torx screws.
Thanks!
#2
sears craftsman will do.
NEVER buy one used
if dropped or left at tension they need to be recalibrated or rebuilt. ( so after use, release the tension on the torque wrench).
also be aware that specs are sometimes written in FOOT pounds, sometimes in INCH pounds. ( guys keep mis-reading and busting the plastic bolts on the fairing mirror kits)
12 inch pounds = 1 ft lb
if you get a torque wrench that covers a range from 10 or 15 ft pounds to 30 ft pounds, you will cover 90% of everything.
3/8" drive will do.
you will see torx drivers at sears as well.
a "click" type will "click" in your hands when you reach the pre determined value you dial in by turning the handle.
the old beam type uses a pointer and scale, we don't see them much anymore.
maybe this:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro...4&blockType=G4
17 ft lb's is the turning force of 17 lbs applied 90º to the bolt with a 1 foot lever.
what you are doing is not crucial, you can "guess" at what 17 pounds feels like...
if your wrench is 12" long apply 17 pounds force, you can get a feel for this by pushing against the bathroom scale to 17# a few times.
and if it happens to be 15 or 20 ft pounds, nothing will break.
but do use blue locktite thread locker on those.
--- a torque wrench is handy if you are using your hands alot- otherwise you can skip it for this type of application or borrow one.
My personal policy is that I will borrow a tool once- but BUY it the 2nd time I need it. I got some good neighbors and I try to be one.
on my kit, the instructions for the front attachment points and spacer were not well written, should look like this when mounted:
mike
NEVER buy one used
if dropped or left at tension they need to be recalibrated or rebuilt. ( so after use, release the tension on the torque wrench).
also be aware that specs are sometimes written in FOOT pounds, sometimes in INCH pounds. ( guys keep mis-reading and busting the plastic bolts on the fairing mirror kits)
12 inch pounds = 1 ft lb
if you get a torque wrench that covers a range from 10 or 15 ft pounds to 30 ft pounds, you will cover 90% of everything.
3/8" drive will do.
you will see torx drivers at sears as well.
a "click" type will "click" in your hands when you reach the pre determined value you dial in by turning the handle.
the old beam type uses a pointer and scale, we don't see them much anymore.
maybe this:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro...4&blockType=G4
17 ft lb's is the turning force of 17 lbs applied 90º to the bolt with a 1 foot lever.
what you are doing is not crucial, you can "guess" at what 17 pounds feels like...
if your wrench is 12" long apply 17 pounds force, you can get a feel for this by pushing against the bathroom scale to 17# a few times.
and if it happens to be 15 or 20 ft pounds, nothing will break.
but do use blue locktite thread locker on those.
--- a torque wrench is handy if you are using your hands alot- otherwise you can skip it for this type of application or borrow one.
My personal policy is that I will borrow a tool once- but BUY it the 2nd time I need it. I got some good neighbors and I try to be one.
on my kit, the instructions for the front attachment points and spacer were not well written, should look like this when mounted:
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 12-26-2012 at 10:38 PM.
#3
The craftsman ones are fine. They are click type. TQ Wrenches are one of those things you can go cheap but get what you pay for to middle of the road like craftsman or snap on ect for big bucks....They run about 80 bucks at Sears but if you continue to bend wrenches on the bike it will be useful again.
#5
#7
Wow, you guys are awesome. Thank you so much for the quick advice.
If it wasn't for the fact that I'm loaded up with Gentlemen's Jack, I would do the project now. lol
The project does require red loctite (I don't use red for anything--blue is sufficient). Maybe I can get away with a regular wrench and not have to invest into a torque wrench and the sockets.
Thanks again!
If it wasn't for the fact that I'm loaded up with Gentlemen's Jack, I would do the project now. lol
The project does require red loctite (I don't use red for anything--blue is sufficient). Maybe I can get away with a regular wrench and not have to invest into a torque wrench and the sockets.
Thanks again!
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#8
Hmmm, don't need to use a torque wrench, just some loctite and snug it up?
That is the kind of advice that brings on the need for roadside assistance. Sure, some fasteners are more critical regarding accurate torque specifications. But, if it is specified, you should follow it, including the type of loctite used. Anyone that tells you otherwise is a hack.
That is the kind of advice that brings on the need for roadside assistance. Sure, some fasteners are more critical regarding accurate torque specifications. But, if it is specified, you should follow it, including the type of loctite used. Anyone that tells you otherwise is a hack.