Ok,
I convinced myself that I will be happy and content with my stock 96"cid (2009 FLHT) with a cam swap. After reading thru many posts, I also decided to go the .030 head gasket route. I know this will cost more in labor but also hope to save some $$ by using my stock pushrods. Although the cam aspects are somewhat different, I think I narrowed my choices down to SE204/255 or Woods tw6-6 as these will benefit my riding style in their own ways. I have read about the benefits of the slight bump of compression for the 204/6-6 but not so sure of the 255's? I will be keeping the heads/springs stock. I'm also hoping to not require CR's and believe I should be safe being under 10:1 cr ? Since the heads will be off I sure could be open to the possibility of at least a rear release. Any thoughts/input? Now for the parts. Is B168 the part number I'll need for the bearings ? I have a line on these Cometic gaskets through my bro-in-law at cost believing these are the correct ones ? DS-172106 STYLE: Head gasket, FITS: 99-09 Twin Cam w/ std. bore, .030”, TYPE: MLS, QTY: Each
$42.95
Any other parts/numbers I need to accumulate? Gaskets, etc? The local dealer is pretty cost competitive and will be doing the labor but I can at least aquire needed parts to defer costs down the road. Input appreciated !! Troop

 

I'd choose the TW6-6. You should be fine without releases. Yes they are the B168's that you need. Get the cam service gasket kit from HD or the Cometic equivalent and it will contain all the gaskets needed to go through the rockers and save your stock rods.

 

Such as this Cometic kit ? If so, I'll save some coin on this too
0934-0786 FITS: 99-08 Twin Cam, STYLE: Cam service kit $49.95

 

I have SE 255's in my Ultra. I don't need compression releases with just the cams. However if you put the .030 gasket in, you may bump up compression to where the releases are needed. I can also get along with the stock clutch spring since the torque is under 110. I reused the stock pushrods.

Along with the dyno tune, I got an increase of about 10 ft/lbs of torque around 3200 rpm and also got 10 extra HP around 5500 rpm over my Stage I. The torque curve on the SE 255's held above 90 out to 4500 rpm, so my power is very much in the useful range.

If you go with either the Woods or SE 255's, I would not put in the .030 gasket. Not needed unless you are doing more work on the engine (heads, cu's). If you think you are going to change cams again in the future, you might consider adjustable push rods. For me, I had read enough posts to be confident that the SE 255's would be fine. It's more labor intensive to keep the stock rods, but lower parts cost.

 

Only one comment. Once you have decided on what you want for a cam, stay off this board until you get the work done. Many will bring up so many other options and opinions that you will get confused or simply give up. It's sounds like you know what you want and Dawg has already given you a plan. Good luck.

 

By using the .030: head gaskets you have shortened the height of your motor by .025", so now your stock push rods are to long. .025" doesnt sound like much but figure it is 1/4 of the cusion in the lifter travel. If it were mine or a motor I was building it would get adjustables so that lifter preload can be set properly!

 

I stopped by the shop yesterday to throw some ideas by the Service Manager who I have known for many years. He asked me why don't I just spend an additional $140 for 103" pistons (after 20% off) and $325for boring/honing my cylinders/cleaning up my heads and get some extra CID/flow for $465. He said they wouldn't charge me any extra for pulling the cylinders/pistons and reinstalling. He said that would be $465 I would feel and I don't really need to decide until the cam work begins. I could probably do this but it would be a 2010/2011 winter project instead of a late spring project. Decisions Decisions ....

 

Well, you know what opinions are like.... If you have the heads off already just for a gasket swap.....

I thought cams alone would be good enough, but it's addicting. Just depends on your personality. Once I got a taste, I wanted more. Now I'm reading about Phil's 124" and secretly wishing mine would grenade so I could tear it apart again (not really, but sort of).

Like smokindave said, once you open it up, stay away from here until your are done and out riding again.

 

Troop, I'm confused about your cam selection primarily because there is a big difference in where the torque is when you are considering both SE-255 and Woods 6 cams.

Also, you don't mention what fuel mangament device you plan to use: SEST, TTS, etc. Is this part of your cost calculation? Ditto the exhaust and a/c.

Good luck with your research, and you're right: decisions, decisions, and more decisions.

 

Troop, for $465 to go all the way to the 103 with head cleanup, I'd really consider jumping up and wait until next year. Ride it for the summer the way it is. Otherwise, if you just do a cam change now, but think you really want a 103, you are going to have quite a bit more cost because they have to go in again.

Things to consider that you may or may not have in your cost:

1. Tuner (SEST, SERT, other)
2. Tune - even if you are only changing cams, you will need to re-dyno
3. Compression releases - if you stay with just the cams and no .030, you probably don't need CRs. However if you bump up the engine (103) or compression (.030 gasket), you probably will need the CRs.
4. If you go to the 103, you probably will need to go to the stronger clutch spring, which also means your clutch pull will be harder.


Decisions, decisions, decisions!