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Inner Fairing Removal..Step by Step… W/ Pics
http://www.hdforums.com/forum/tourin...ep-w-pics.html
Issue:
Had to remove inner fairing on wife’s bike, has included a step-by-step instructional on how to do it safely and without the dealer
Read below for full discussion…
http://www.hdforums.com/forum/tourin...ep-w-pics.html
Issue:
Had to remove inner fairing on wife’s bike, has included a step-by-step instructional on how to do it safely and without the dealer
Read below for full discussion…
Inner Fairing Removal..Step By Step...W/Pics
#103
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southeast Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
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15. Turn forks left and disconnect the switch connector. You can then remove the cap. It was easier for me to remove the rubber gromets (located on the side) first.
16. Remove 2 screws from turn signal. Make a note on how the wire runs for the turn signal. Remove signal and front chrome skirt.
NOTE...Red dot is for the wire and just to the left of it is the chrome skirt.
16. Remove 2 screws from turn signal. Make a note on how the wire runs for the turn signal. Remove signal and front chrome skirt.
NOTE...Red dot is for the wire and just to the left of it is the chrome skirt.
#104
Thanks a bunch for making my upcoming winter hibernation fairing project easier. Great job my friend!
#105
Thanks for this post. Using the intructions and nice photos I removed and installed my inner fairing this week. Removed Monday morning and sent out for painting. Installed new handlebars and oil temperature gauge. Painted fairing was done on Friday and I installed everything today (Saturday).
I didn't set any speed records, but I wasn't trying to. Thanks to this thread it was easy to do as long as you take your time to mark everything and not rush and break something. It was only in the 30 degree range in my garage, but my winter project is now done and I am a happy camper.
I didn't set any speed records, but I wasn't trying to. Thanks to this thread it was easy to do as long as you take your time to mark everything and not rush and break something. It was only in the 30 degree range in my garage, but my winter project is now done and I am a happy camper.
Last edited by vonzoog; 01-22-2011 at 04:49 PM.
#106
Ignition Switch Plate
I have removed my inner fairing to have it painted, but am having trouble getting the ignition switch plate to "snap" back on to the fairing cap. Anyone else have trouble with this, or have any suggestions?
#107
Mine also did not want to snap back in place. I kept working at it and it finally did.
I believe that the added paint actually makes the holes that it snaps into smaller. You may need to file or scape the paint with a razor blade around the holes. I know that you just had it painted but the plate will cover any marks you put on the paint. And since it is not metal it will not rust.
I hope that helps.
I believe that the added paint actually makes the holes that it snaps into smaller. You may need to file or scape the paint with a razor blade around the holes. I know that you just had it painted but the plate will cover any marks you put on the paint. And since it is not metal it will not rust.
I hope that helps.
#109
I agree. I have taken two 2008 Street Glides apart now to get the inner fairings painted. My wife and I both own a SG. I did hers first and did not find any problems with the silver brackets. When I did mine, I found one of them cracked and the tip broken. (This would account for some of the rattle I was experiencing. So I bought two of them and replaced both of them in my bike. Harley has redesigned them and made them stronger. I wish I had known this when I worked on my wife's bike and I would have switched those out too while I was in there. The new brackets run $12.50 each. Worth doing in my opinion.
#110
Great thread. I found a similar one on the forum and between it and the service manual, I was able to make it through both mine and my wife's 2008 SG's. Wish I had found this one instead. The pictures on this thread are better. The other thread I saw used pictures copied out of the manual. Once you do it, it isn't that bad. If I might make one recommendation that helped me. As I took things apart, I would tape the screws, washers and other parts to a piece of paper and marked where they came from. I then marked the pieces of paper in order, and then reassembled the fairings by going through the parts in reverse. On the second time around, I wrote the steps down as I went as well and followed them in reverse. Taking the first bike apart too me about 2.5 hours and about 2 to put it back together. (That included installing new gauges and new speakers.) The second time around, it took me 1.5 hours to take it apart and 1.5 to put it back together (again including a switch out of gauges, speakers, new chrome hand levers as well) I just used the papers from the first bike and taped the parts to them from the second bike and did not even need to follow instructions because I followed the papers I had written out with the parts taped to them.
Also the other thread suggested using a ball head hex socket to remove the bolts to the stereo instead of an allen wrench. I followed that advice and it paid for itself. Following these things made it so much easier in my opinion. Just a couple suggestions. Thanks for the great thread though.
Also the other thread suggested using a ball head hex socket to remove the bolts to the stereo instead of an allen wrench. I followed that advice and it paid for itself. Following these things made it so much easier in my opinion. Just a couple suggestions. Thanks for the great thread though.
Last edited by Motorcop540; 02-24-2011 at 10:13 PM.