Mine banged every once in a while, but my big symptom was a ton of driveline slack.

 

That sounds like a bad starter clutch; I had the same problem four times with my 08 FLHX over the course of 71,000 miles. The first three were under warranty and the dealer replaced the starter, the fourth time was on me and the indie who was doing a glide pro for me said all I needed was a starter clutch and he was right. The problem comes from a starter clutch that can’t handle the compression and eventually wears out. The only real cure is compression releases.

One indication of a compensator going bad is excessive drive train lash; the cure is a SE compensator. Since going to 103 inches requires compression releases and a SE compensator I made the obvious decision and should be able to pick up my bike the day before the Daytona 500.

The work is being done in St. Cloud which isn’t all that far from Daytona so I made another obvious decision. I’m sitting at the entrance to pit road with great view of turns three and four and high enough to be able to see the entire track.

 

Could be under rare circumstances, but the comp issue will be different. You'll hear and feel a distinct metallic "CLACK!!!" from the primary side. It will usually happen just as you hit the starter, but then cranks normally. To me it's like someone smacked the crank with a 3lb hammer.

The fuel condition usually sounds more like a loud pop or even a bark. Happens sometimes after extended cracking - weak battery, etc.

 

Glad you reopened this can-o-worms jimski, my first thought this subject has been beaten to death.

I guess in all the threads I have read however I did not pick up on the low rpm driveline slack as a symptom. I thought it was just the nature of the HD drivetrain.

Unfortunately now I will have to re-think my sit back and wait approach.

 

Thanks guys, I've picked up some really useful info so far:

1. Excessive drive train lash/slack.
2. A loud bang from the primary side as soon as you hit the start button but then it cranks normally.

Good stuff to know!

 

That is one of the major issues you will notice when you go to the SE compensator. At low speeds letting off the throttle and reapplying it you will notice a lot of noise like a loose chain in the primary with the stock compensator. That goes away with the SE compensator. My 2010 banged since new and that all goes away with the SE compensator.The stock compensator is really weak when you compare it to the SE. If you can swing putting the SE in your bike it is a very good upgrade,all 2011 touring bikes come with it stock. The stock one can last a long time before it destroys itself or something else in your primary but if you compare it to the SE compensator it is junk when it is new. There are some Fretting issues with the SE but if your going to run a compensator it is the better of the two by far.

 

Wish $$ was never an issue but sadly.......LOL Was just about to spring for a solo seat and push off compensator until April bonus time. So I guess I can take my chances or reverse the order.

Of course I am going to spring soon for a 3rd tuner, just have to try the RP EMS, then upgrade pipes on the wife RKC and new travel bags for trips, tires soon, etc, etc. I am convinced it never stops!

I did read about the fretting issue. Dawg or someone has a nice pic of their fix I saved and will look up before installing one.

 

The stator is underneath the rotor. The rotor is the big round metal bowl with magnets inside that the stator resides in.

 

Do the compensator it seems like you have a new transmission after. Everything just seems tighter in the drive line when you take all that slack out of the compensator spring pack. If you rotor won't come off when you go to swap compensators just dremel where it hits the inner primary much easier than taking it off like i did.

 

Those are what the stock compensator does when new you do not have to wait for those two symptoms. Both gone with the SE compensator, the stock compensator spring pack is just too small.