Engine Cooling Test Data
#21
01-28-2011, 11:04 AM
#22
01-28-2011, 11:38 AM
Sorry for the confusion, I was pretty sure the context was adequate to convey my intended thoughts. I never imagined that someone could possibly interpret my comment, to imply sitting in traffic revving the engine to 3K RPMs.
#24
01-28-2011, 02:10 PM
All of the fans, including the oil cooler fans, were hooked-up to a single switch. But for this test, measuring cylinder head temperature across a fairly short time span, the oil cooler fans had minimal (or none) impact in my opinion.
#25
01-28-2011, 03:52 PM
#26
01-28-2011, 04:21 PM
I've pondered the LeNale and HD fans in the past but have balked for several reasons. First, my air horns prevent installing anything else in that area and I'm very attached to them with no apparent relocation option. I'm surprised by the OP's results, as it seems to control temps when stationary.
Another problem I have is reading reports that the Lenale fans have a spotty durability record. I've heard about them failing within a week and some lasting for two years without problems. They have apparently gone through some component improvements over the years, so maybe the newer models are more durable. That said, I don't like the very short warranty of either the HD or LeNale fans. If something isn't designed to last for a reasonable period I'd just rather not mess with it.
I've experimented with cooler fans with no long-term success because of, you guessed it, fan durability. Of course I was using computer fans which were not intended to be used in a high-heat, dirty, and potentially wet environment. Very soon I'm going to give the cooler-fan project one more try by installing some waterproof, dustproof (IP55) computer fans. I'll give feedback on that when I get something to report. These do not stop the assent of engine temps but merely slow it down, IMO an imperfect but useful function. I already have a DTDP relay for my PCV-AT switch setup, so after installing the cooler fans I will be able to switch from rich AFRs with fans on to leaner AFRs with fans off. If I can figure out how to rig an engine fan on this bike without removing my air horns I'll connect it to the relay too.
Another problem I have is reading reports that the Lenale fans have a spotty durability record. I've heard about them failing within a week and some lasting for two years without problems. They have apparently gone through some component improvements over the years, so maybe the newer models are more durable. That said, I don't like the very short warranty of either the HD or LeNale fans. If something isn't designed to last for a reasonable period I'd just rather not mess with it.
I've experimented with cooler fans with no long-term success because of, you guessed it, fan durability. Of course I was using computer fans which were not intended to be used in a high-heat, dirty, and potentially wet environment. Very soon I'm going to give the cooler-fan project one more try by installing some waterproof, dustproof (IP55) computer fans. I'll give feedback on that when I get something to report. These do not stop the assent of engine temps but merely slow it down, IMO an imperfect but useful function. I already have a DTDP relay for my PCV-AT switch setup, so after installing the cooler fans I will be able to switch from rich AFRs with fans on to leaner AFRs with fans off. If I can figure out how to rig an engine fan on this bike without removing my air horns I'll connect it to the relay too.
#27
01-28-2011, 05:11 PM
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#29
01-29-2011, 01:13 AM
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Over the years I have toyed with the idea of a parade fan, never thought it would make as much difference as you documented.
Great write up. Thanks!
Great write up. Thanks!
#30
01-29-2011, 05:25 AM
All you engineers out there are gonna love this! Earlier this week I installed some oil cooler fans and a LeNale engine cooling fan to my 2011 Limited. You can see the install at https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/603524-engine-cooling.html
Today I did some testing to quantify how well the fans perform. These results are for the LeNale engine fan. I had a little trouble with my oil temp monitoring set-up so I need to retry that part of the testing another time.
EDIT: 9:27 pm. I'm adding this to address a couple of responses I've gotten relative to running the bike down the road at speed. The purpose of this test was to simulate the effects of being stuck in traffic. Stop and go. Nothing more, nothing less. The relevance of this test, or the fans themselves, is nil if you try to apply it to a bike travelling down the highway at speed. My fault for not clearly stating the purpose in the original post.
Here’s the test methodology used for the engine fan:
(Ambient temperature was 70 – 72 degrees F during testing)
1)Ride bike to get to operating temperature.
2)Connect the bike (Power Commander) to computer to read
engine temp through PCV software. The PCV displays the ECM
reading of the cylinder head temperature.
3)Run the bike at idle (1,000 rpm) with fan on to establish baseline
temp.
4)Record engine temp.
5) Turn fan off and continue to run at idle until the Engine Idle
Temperature Management System (EITMS) activates. The
system activates at approximately 290 degrees F.
6)Record engine temp and time.
7)Turn on fan.
8) Monitor and record engine temperature vs. time.
9) Turn off fan when engine temp stabilizes at lowest value attainable.
10) Repeat steps 3 - 9.
And here’s the test data:
With fan ON - 244.4 deg F baseline. Time (T) = 0 minutes
Turn fan OFF @ T+0
293.0 @ T+2 (EITMS activated)
Turn fan ON @ T+2
296.6 @ T+2’15”
276.8 @ T+3
262.4 @ T+4
255.2 @ T+5
249.8 @ T+6
246.2 @ T+7
244.4 @ T+7’30”
244.4 @ T+9 (temp stabilized)
Turn fan OFF @ T+9
266.0 @ T+10
293.0 @ T+11 (EITMS activated)
Turn fan ON @ T+11
298.4 @ T+11’15”
280.0 @ T+12
266.0 @ T+13
258.8 @ T+14
251.6 @ T+15
248.0 @ T+16
246.2 @ T+17
246.2 @ T+19 (temp stabilized)
End of Test
Summary:
I am very encouraged with the results and believe the addition of the fan was most definitely a worthwhile modification. Engine temps with fan running were 50+ degrees cooler than without. The engine temp would clearly exceed 300 deg F at idle with the fan OFF if I let it run to that point. With the fan ON the engine temp never exceeded 246.2 deg F.
One of the really cool things was to hear the EITMS disengage within a minute or two of kicking on the fan. That alone makes this mod worth it to me.
We’ll see how this works out when the ambient temps go up this summer, but regardless of the actual temps, it sure feels good to know that they’re 50+ degrees lower than they would have been without installing the fan.
Today I did some testing to quantify how well the fans perform. These results are for the LeNale engine fan. I had a little trouble with my oil temp monitoring set-up so I need to retry that part of the testing another time.
EDIT: 9:27 pm. I'm adding this to address a couple of responses I've gotten relative to running the bike down the road at speed. The purpose of this test was to simulate the effects of being stuck in traffic. Stop and go. Nothing more, nothing less. The relevance of this test, or the fans themselves, is nil if you try to apply it to a bike travelling down the highway at speed. My fault for not clearly stating the purpose in the original post.
Here’s the test methodology used for the engine fan:
(Ambient temperature was 70 – 72 degrees F during testing)
1)Ride bike to get to operating temperature.
2)Connect the bike (Power Commander) to computer to read
engine temp through PCV software. The PCV displays the ECM
reading of the cylinder head temperature.
3)Run the bike at idle (1,000 rpm) with fan on to establish baseline
temp.
4)Record engine temp.
5) Turn fan off and continue to run at idle until the Engine Idle
Temperature Management System (EITMS) activates. The
system activates at approximately 290 degrees F.
6)Record engine temp and time.
7)Turn on fan.
8) Monitor and record engine temperature vs. time.
9) Turn off fan when engine temp stabilizes at lowest value attainable.
10) Repeat steps 3 - 9.
And here’s the test data:
With fan ON - 244.4 deg F baseline. Time (T) = 0 minutes
Turn fan OFF @ T+0
293.0 @ T+2 (EITMS activated)
Turn fan ON @ T+2
296.6 @ T+2’15”
276.8 @ T+3
262.4 @ T+4
255.2 @ T+5
249.8 @ T+6
246.2 @ T+7
244.4 @ T+7’30”
244.4 @ T+9 (temp stabilized)
Turn fan OFF @ T+9
266.0 @ T+10
293.0 @ T+11 (EITMS activated)
Turn fan ON @ T+11
298.4 @ T+11’15”
280.0 @ T+12
266.0 @ T+13
258.8 @ T+14
251.6 @ T+15
248.0 @ T+16
246.2 @ T+17
246.2 @ T+19 (temp stabilized)
End of Test
Summary:
I am very encouraged with the results and believe the addition of the fan was most definitely a worthwhile modification. Engine temps with fan running were 50+ degrees cooler than without. The engine temp would clearly exceed 300 deg F at idle with the fan OFF if I let it run to that point. With the fan ON the engine temp never exceeded 246.2 deg F.
One of the really cool things was to hear the EITMS disengage within a minute or two of kicking on the fan. That alone makes this mod worth it to me.
We’ll see how this works out when the ambient temps go up this summer, but regardless of the actual temps, it sure feels good to know that they’re 50+ degrees lower than they would have been without installing the fan.
Please keep in touch. Would love to see your results in higher temps. We here in central Florida see 90-95 degree daily during the summer months. If the durability is there a fan would be a definite benefit.
Nice work. Jrsess