PCV or Harley Race Tuner?
#41
djl- the Power Vision is a flash based tuner. It still uses the stock ECU code, and is speed density. They have similar/identical functionality to the TTS at this point, with the bonus of an interface box that you can use independent of a laptop. The technology itself is identical until you add the autotune retrofit for the Power Vision, then it'll have a leg up on the TTS for most people.
#44
Example, I've got a set of Vance & Hines fishtails on my bike. They aren't loud, but on a long trip I'm going to want it a little quieter so I can listen to my ipod through helmet speakers. The quiet baffles Vance & Hines sells are pretty restrictive compared to the regular baffles, so much so that I think they're more restrictive than the stock slipons. That is going to change the tune slightly. Because the O2's are still on the bike, they'll be able to lean it out a little to get back to the target lambda value. Would you notice a difference with a PCV? Maybe, maybe not. I know it would show up on an a/f trace on a dyno, though.
Humidity is a pain.
Honestly, the TTS was first, and I want to support them. I also get a work-issued rugged laptop that is usually either in a vehicle at work, or riding in my saddlebag with me anyway. It isn't a big deal to plug the USB cable in and collect data.
I'm currently bored and sick of winter, I was recording data with the TTS a little while ago with the bike just idling in the garage. It displays most of what I'd like, only complaint is the data isn't all that fast, which is more a function of pulling data over CAN, and not the tool itself.
Without altitude corrections there will be substantial differences, if you drive up to Denver, as an example, but at sea level I wouldn't expect anything substantial.
To take this a step further- your PCV+AT module has no major functionality improvements over the stock ECU in the bike. If I remember right, it's auto tuning, but you're still not running closed loop.
Only difference is for the TTS, or the PV (until AT comes online), you have to tune the VE tables with the bike running at stoich, then you can go back and set the target AF or lambda to whatever you'd like.
I'd guess the majority of people are going to prefer the PV as it is handy carrying a small GPS-sized unit with them instead of a laptop. I also would believe the Dynojet interface is more flashy and more user friendly.
Now, when you get down to PV with autotune vs. Thundermax, it's just a matter of personal taste. I think the pricing is almost identical between them. The Thundermax is basic alpha-n instead of speed density, but for a more radical build it shouldn't make much of a difference. One of my coworkers is heavily involved with Zippers, and was really pushing the Thundermax for me. I couldn't bring myself to do it, though.
My bike is mostly stock save for the intake/exhaust, so I'm leaving it at the lower end of closed loop for the majority of operating conditions.
Last edited by iclick; 02-25-2011 at 11:50 AM.
#45
I'd like to make the following points on the importance of the NB O2 sensors. First, they only work at idle and only slightly above the cruise range, which is ~50% TP (throttle-position) and below and ~3000 RPM and below. Thus, above that point you are in open-loop mode and the stock O2 sensors do not work.
I've used both the PCIII and PCV, both basic and with Auto-Tune for the latter, and always ran full open-loop until I upgraded to Auto-Tune. Important factors in a well-tuned cruise-range include smooth and cool running; a lack of flat-spots, surging, or hesitation in transitions (roll-on); and good gas mileage. I never had any performance issues when running full open-loop and my mileage was always in the upper 40's to as high as 50 mpg on the backroads. Now, I would like for someone to explain what I was missing by eliminating the stock O2 sensors. To say that they are even a minor factor in a well-tuned, good-running bike is simply unfounded, IMO.
Last edited by iclick; 02-25-2011 at 01:35 PM.
#46
Revolution EMS uses the Wideband sensors along with a WB controller. They have re-written the ECM code and use completely different O2 strategies than the conventional Delphi ECM, this is the only product currently on the market that offers live-real time wideband tuning with the Delphi ECM.
The Superchips tuner is still in development, I met with them a few weeks back. Superchips will offer a wideband option however it is not live on the fly like the Rev EMS.
The Superchips tuner is still in development, I met with them a few weeks back. Superchips will offer a wideband option however it is not live on the fly like the Rev EMS.
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Jamie Long / Fuel Moto USA
The USA's Leader V-Twin EFI & Performance www.fuelmotousa.com
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Jamie Long / Fuel Moto USA
The USA's Leader V-Twin EFI & Performance www.fuelmotousa.com
Contact 920-423-3309
Email jamie@fuelmotousa.com
#47
Instead of "ECU" I guess I should've qualified it by saying "stock ECU." The Rev Performance device doesn't use a stock ECU configuration. Man, the tuner market is changing like the weather! This is good for the consumer if he can keep up with the changes.
Last edited by iclick; 02-25-2011 at 11:46 AM.
#48
Hey Guys i am new to the forum. i have read this thread and many more and i still cant see a solution for my problem. while living in Dubai a couple of years ago, i bought new 2010 FXDWG. on a trip to the states i picked up the SE air filter and V&H big radius exhaust from HD Seattle. they also sold me a PCV to go along with it. after the install, the bike ran perfect using Dynojets provided maps without any modifications (No Dyno Tuners in the area). i recently got a job in Egypt and took my bike along with me, ever since it has been running like crap, most recently stalls after a few minutes of ideling. i changed the fuel filter (1500 Miles) thinking i got some dirt in there, cleaned my airfilter, checked the spark plugs..nothing. i hooked up the stock O2 sensors to try it out (Closed loop with the PCV) and the problem went away, however the bike is running like crap and the exhaust is popping and crackeling all over the place. Dealership says i gotta install a SERT (which costs 750USD here) and i dont think they have a dyno to tune it peroperly. Any suggestions?
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