Inner Primary Housing Removal / Replace Shifter Rod Lever

[Sporty302]

My son's 2002 RK has a loose shifter rod lever with an allen bolt that will not tighten up any more. We're thinkin' we can remove the inner primary housing and r & r the shifter rod lever instead of paying $600+ for someone else to do the work. We looked at the betterlever.com website, but I don't think the stock lever can be cut off without removing the inner primary. And while eyeballing the loose lever we see that the shifter paw shaft seal is weeping out tranny fluid so it will need replacing, as well! We've got the service and parts manuals and have looked at all the YouTube vidoes we can find on this procedure. I'm putting together a list of must have stuff like 1 1/2 in. socket for comp. nut, 1 3/16 in. socket for clutch nut, primary gasket kit, new shift lever and seal, maybe a new chain tensioner plastic shoe, heim joints for shift linkage and a H-D primary drive locking tool. Are there any tricks or tips anyone can offer? Anything you think I am missing? FYI to anyone who hasn't done this yet - put a 1/4 in. allen wrench on the shifter rod lever bolt and tighten it up now. I think once it loosens up and stays that way for a while the lever gripping teeth get worn by moving around the harder shifter paw shaft and the damage is done! Tightening the bolt after that won't fix the problem. I think if you keep the lever bolt tight and never let it loosen up you won't have the problem!

[Ugly Troll]

You're (most likely) going to need some pretty big air to break the compensator nut loose...IF you have to replace the shaft and or lever, buy aftermarket ( the stock Harley piece is cheap crap and you'll end up with this problem again), Take your time, go by the book exactly and you should be fine. Going through the primary is the proper way to do this particular job. Some people try opening up the tranny (thinking it'll be easier that way), but trust me.....that would be a nightmare unless you've got the experience and all the right tools to do that! Good luck, it's not a big job, and it's sure not rocket science!

[dawg]

A breaker bar with a piece of pipe will be all you need to loosen the comp nut. Don't need to buy the HD locking tool as you can use a piece of flat stock or what have you. Remember the clutch nut is left handed (righty loosey). Don't follow the comp nut procedure in the manual, instead follow the updated service bulletin on the torque procedure when you put it back together. Replace all the seals while you're in there since it's going to be apart. Use the Cometic double lip shifter shaft seal as it is better.

[gmc]

If you take that allen bolt out and replace it with a regular bolt you can tighten it up with a socket in most cases. Since you have a leak you probable want to pull the inner primary but just try it.

[Beeracuda]

I just got through doing this. It had me intimidated since I had never done pulled the inner primary before, but it was really no big deal. I made sure to put some blue loctite on the bolt before screwing it in the shift lever.

[103 sedona orange]

Take a look at your rear belt.

[1flhtk4me]

Be sure to check the splines on the tranny shaft.

[Beeracuda]

Originally Posted by 103 sedona orange

Take a look at your rear belt.

102,000 on my belt. It shows some wear, but it's still good.

Originally Posted by 1flhtk4me

Be sure to check the splines on the tranny shaft.

I was surprised as loose as the lever has been for as long as it has been on my bike, the shifter shaft looks great. I put the new lever on with lots of loctite on the screw and tightened the crap out of it. I'm betting it will last as long as I own the bike.

[Sporty302]

Thanks for the tips guys! First time for me on this job as well so I like to know what I'm in for.
Dawg, where can I find the updated service bulletin on comp. nut torque procedure?

[BLKBAGGER]

+1 on the Cometic seal. If your belt has high miles or shows any wear or holes NOW is the time to replace it. Don't forget to loosen the starter bolts.