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How to Replace Idle Air Control (IAC) on 2007 EFI?

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  #21  
Old 08-01-2011, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by iclick
Damn, glad I didn't run into that. Maybe it would be wise to spray some penetrant on the bolts to help ease them out. OTOH if they're clogged with Loctite it may not work its way into the threads. Mine were firm but not so tight I felt they might break. The new IAC has new bolts in the kit, IIRC, and they have a dab of Loctite on them. I know the TPS had bolts and an o-ring in the kit. I didn't do it but would recommend replacing these with Allen bolts to make removal easier in the future.
Yep....when I carefully drilled it out....there was locktite on every thread. I don't think it came from the factory like that. Probably a previous mechanic or owner, but you never know....
 
  #22  
Old 08-09-2011, 09:53 AM
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Okay, I haven't had time to replace the fuel filter yet, BUT, I did buy some Xieds and since the install on them are so easy, I put them on. They are the 13.8-1 model. Well I rode about 60 miles yesterday in the heat(88 degrees) and in some stop and go traffic. Not once did I get the hesitation. And also, I can't believe how much smoother and cooler the bikes runs, amazing! I'd say there's about a 50% reduction in heat on my right leg, and can't feel almost any heat on my left while stuck in traffic. It cured that so well I don't think I'll be buying the Fullsac true dual kit to get rid of the cross over.

I did check my intake for vacuum leaks before the install, had no indication of that. So I don't think the Xieds are covering up a deeper problem than the bike just being critically lean with the factory mapping.

Now having said all of the above, I'll withhold judgement and declaring the problem gone until I get time to put several hundred more miles on it.

When I replace the spark plugs the hesitation disappeared for one day then returned, so we'll see what happens with the Xieds?

Bang for buck these Xieds on a stock bike with just SE slip-ons are the bomb for the price. Just getting rid of the heat was worth the price. (and I bought these used off the parts board for $25)

I've had to buy many Power Commanders to fix non-HD motorcycle FI issues in the past, it was nice to not have to spend $300 or more to sort this bike.
 
  #23  
Old 12-28-2011, 07:47 AM
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Thanks all for previous postings.

I made a run for Chalk Mountain yesterday to ride some Hwy 51 twisties. But on the way down, heading into Granbury, my '07 Ultra started dying at stop lights from too low of idle. I wasn't sure what my problem was, so I turned around and headed home. The bike ran great otherwise, just tried to die whenever I came to a stop, even pulling into my driveway. I kept the idle up by tweaking the throttle, then pulled into the garage. Then I let go to just let it die and all the sudden it was idling great - not dying. I got off and restarted it several times with no problems.

Does this sound like only the IAC needs cleaning or replacing?

Thanks,
Joe
 

Last edited by TxWolfman; 12-28-2011 at 08:11 AM.
  #24  
Old 12-28-2011, 09:15 AM
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This thread is about 6 months old. You probably would be better to start a new thread.

As far as your problem I would suspect that it is either heat related (ETS), or you may have a leak in your intake manifold. You can search threads on those issues. A good way to start, that doesn't cost much is by cleaning the IAC and throttle body intake. Make sure that you spray cleaner into the two small holes in the top of the inside of the throttle body. Resynch the ECM to the EFI. Your service manual will tell you how.
 
  #25  
Old 12-28-2011, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by larsfum
This thread is about 6 months old. You probably would be better to start a new thread.

As far as your problem I would suspect that it is either heat related (ETS), or you may have a leak in your intake manifold. You can search threads on those issues. A good way to start, that doesn't cost much is by cleaning the IAC and throttle body intake. Make sure that you spray cleaner into the two small holes in the top of the inside of the throttle body. Resynch the ECM to the EFI. Your service manual will tell you how.
+1!! start with the cheep and easy first.
 

Last edited by soft 02; 12-28-2011 at 01:44 PM.
  #26  
Old 12-28-2011, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by TxWolfman
Thanks all for previous postings.

I made a run for Chalk Mountain yesterday to ride some Hwy 51 twisties. But on the way down, heading into Granbury, my '07 Ultra started dying at stop lights from too low of idle. I wasn't sure what my problem was, so I turned around and headed home. The bike ran great otherwise, just tried to die whenever I came to a stop, even pulling into my driveway. I kept the idle up by tweaking the throttle, then pulled into the garage. Then I let go to just let it die and all the sudden it was idling great - not dying. I got off and restarted it several times with no problems.

Does this sound like only the IAC needs cleaning or replacing?

Thanks,
Joe
My 07 does the same thing once in a while. Each time I've cleaned the IAC it fixes it. Cycle it on and off while spraying cleaner into the orifice.
 
  #27  
Old 01-24-2012, 04:05 PM
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I just finished a 50,000 mile service on my Ultra. Replaced fuel filter, IAC motor, spark plugs and air filter element. All was well unitl this afternoon. When I started it uip it had an erratic idle, going from almost dying to about 1600 rpm. then it would smooth out and sound fine. At stops it acted like it was going to die but never did. Ran fine on the highway. No engine lights and no engine codes were recorded. What do you guys think? Intake leak? But why now? Frustrating.
 
  #28  
Old 01-24-2012, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BezerkoBob
I just finished a 50,000 mile service on my Ultra. Replaced fuel filter, IAC motor, spark plugs and air filter element. All was well unitl this afternoon. When I started it uip it had an erratic idle, going from almost dying to about 1600 rpm. then it would smooth out and sound fine. At stops it acted like it was going to die but never did. Ran fine on the highway. No engine lights and no engine codes were recorded. What do you guys think? Intake leak? But why now? Frustrating.
TPS sensor. If it has had water in it it wont throw a code. Symptoms for me was dying at stops and high idle when cold. Only 28 bucks and two screws. This is assuming that everything you have already done is not affecting this issue.
 
  #29  
Old 01-24-2012, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BezerkoBob
I just finished a 50,000 mile service on my Ultra. Replaced fuel filter, IAC motor, spark plugs and air filter element. All was well unitl this afternoon. When I started it uip it had an erratic idle, going from almost dying to about 1600 rpm. then it would smooth out and sound fine. At stops it acted like it was going to die but never did. Ran fine on the highway. No engine lights and no engine codes were recorded. What do you guys think? Intake leak? But why now? Frustrating.
When you replaced the IAC motor did you remove the induction module as per the service manual? If so, did you replace the intake seals? If you suspect an intake leak, spray some WD-40 or similar at the intake/head juncture of both cylinders and listen for any RPM changes either up or down. BTW, you don't need to remove the induction module to replace the IAC motor, but you'll have to get creative to remove the inside bolt, as clearance is very tight.

Did the idle issues start immediately after doing your 50k service? Why did you change the IAC motor at that time? Were you having idle problems before that time?

One red flag that I see is that you changed the fuel filter, which means you pulled the fuel-pump innards from inside the tank. It is possible that you cracked the plastic corrugated hose while handling it, which may cause a fuel-pressure problem. This isn't uncommon and I would've changed the hoses along with the filter, as I believe they weaken or become brittle over time.
 
  #30  
Old 01-24-2012, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by iclick
When you replaced the IAC motor did you remove the induction module as per the service manual? If so, did you replace the intake seals? If you suspect an intake leak, spray some WD-40 or similar at the intake/head juncture of both cylinders and listen for any RPM changes either up or down. BTW, you don't need to remove the induction module to replace the IAC motor, but you'll have to get creative to remove the inside bolt, as clearance is very tight.

Did the idle issues start immediately after doing your 50k service? Why did you change the IAC motor at that time? Were you having idle problems before that time?

One red flag that I see is that you changed the fuel filter, which means you pulled the fuel-pump innards from inside the tank. It is possible that you cracked the plastic corrugated hose while handling it, which may cause a fuel-pressure problem. This isn't uncommon and I would've changed the hoses along with the filter, as I believe they weaken or become brittle over time.
Wasnt there a service bullitin on the filter housings a while ago?
 


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