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Any drawbacks to Gear driven cams?

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Old 09-25-2011, 02:05 AM
Sledge Hammer Sledge Hammer is offline
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Default Any drawbacks to Gear driven cams?

I have an '04 Ultra with about 22,000 miles on it now and now that winter is approaching I thought it might be a good idea to check out the cam tensioners. The hydraulic tensioner is about $400+. Since you can get an Andrew's 26G gear driven cams for less than that, it would seem like it would make sense. You get the benefit of added power and no issues with cam chain tensioners anymore. Am I missing something?
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Old 09-25-2011, 02:55 AM
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$tonecold $tonecold is offline
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Mark A. Hardy - CHST

$400 for the cams and the gear drive? The gear drive alone is usually $400. Before you spend your money you need to check the runout on your crank. If it is more than .003 inches the gear drive system will not work correctly. It will howl. You can buy conversion cams that use the late model oil pump and hydraulic tensioners for about the same money and you get the advantage of the better oil pump.
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Old 09-25-2011, 08:52 AM
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6 gun 6 gun is offline
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I had the gear drive cams on my 2000 dyna,
and i loved them. I wish that my 07 crank
was as strong as yours because I would
have them again.

Praise the Lord my God
2007 Road King Classic/Custom. CVO SE 103 script heads,
SE 103 + pistons, SE 259e cams, 10.5:1 compression .
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Old 09-25-2011, 09:02 AM
Jinks Jinks is offline
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'06 & earlier run out *shouldn't* be a problem, but check it before you buy the gear drive cams. If you're within tolerance, then gear drive cams are a good idea. If you're out of tolerance, or marginal, compare the price to the '07 & later hydraulic tensioned cam setup. It appears to be as reliable as gear drive, & more tolerant of run out.
Remember, "No good deed goes unpunished"
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Old 09-25-2011, 09:13 AM
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'05Train '05Train is offline
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The runout on my '05 Night Train was .005, so I ended up with a 103 in it.

Gears are nice. I like the sound, and there's no tensioners to ever worry about. That said, if your crank's not too far out, go with the Andrews conversion.
'05 FXSTB/I - Blacker than Black. 103 by JD's Cycleworks 116/116 SAE. Too much other stuff to list.
'14.5 KLR650
'16 Road Glide Ultra

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Old 09-25-2011, 09:26 AM
Sledge Hammer Sledge Hammer is offline
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Thanks for the replies guys. I see the error of my thought process. I was looking at the J&P catalog and see that the cam goes for $320. I seem to have overlooked the fact that it requires the S&S gears. Sounds like it still might be the way to go if the run out on the crank is OK, but it isn't as cheap as I thought.
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:12 AM
1flhtk4me 1flhtk4me is offline
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I had the 26G's in my 95" built motor.No issues.
2011 Electra Glide Limited,Fuel Moto stainless headpipe,Jackpots,PCV,SE/K&N.
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:22 AM
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I have had S&S geardrive since 02. Can't even hear em. Running a Fueling oil pump too. 50 lbs. of pressure at highway speeds, 25 at idle.
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02 Electra Glide Standard 97 hp. 103 tq.
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:24 AM
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Stiggy Stiggy is offline
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My 2000 has the strong crank so I went Gear Drive with the Andrews 26g's and LOVE IT.

Bought the complete kit, ( cams, gears, new inner bearings and gasket,) for $561.00 from North Shore Cycles via E-Bay.

Only noise issue is the gear 'ticking' which only occurs at idle and when hot, otherwise it purrs.

2000 FLTRSEI Screamin' Eagle Road Glide, Stage II 95" Big Bore with Andrews 26 Gear Drives and Supertrapp 2 into 1 Exhaust, but a pick up truck ran the stop sign 2/26/14 so I built a Screamin' Eagle 'Road King' out of the salvage.
(You can't kill this thing )
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Old 09-25-2011, 07:37 PM
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dawg dawg is offline
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Gears set up properly are great. As some have mentioned, the crank runout needs to be within spec (.003 or less, preferably .002 or less) and you need to check backlash and go with an oversized or undersized gear as appropriate. The Andrews 26 likes 9.5 compression. I ran an Andrews 26g with a 95" with bigboyz ported heads at 9.5:1 in my 04 and it was great.
'08 105th anniversary Ultra
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