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Clicking noise from starter when trying to start
#1
Clicking noise from starter when trying to start
I have a 09 flht. I recently rePlaced my TGS last week & once I finished I tried to test it. Now my bike won't even crank or even turn over. All it does now is make a clicking sound from the starter. The battery is fully charged What do I do now. T
#2
#6
1. make sure the battery is fully charged ( trickle chargers or tenders do not do that)
put it on a real battery charger for 24 hours, then take to autozone for a load test)
2.) make sure the cable connections are clean and tight at both ends
3.) then service the solenoid- if you've ever owned a chevy, it's easy.
4.) if solenoid is good, check the starter windings etc.
all this is in the manual
trouble shooting and diagnosis is the challenge, not the physical repair
mike
put it on a real battery charger for 24 hours, then take to autozone for a load test)
2.) make sure the cable connections are clean and tight at both ends
3.) then service the solenoid- if you've ever owned a chevy, it's easy.
4.) if solenoid is good, check the starter windings etc.
all this is in the manual
trouble shooting and diagnosis is the challenge, not the physical repair
mike
The following users liked this post:
zatousa (04-29-2017)
#7
Like others have said, your battery is either low or you have a bad connection in the starter circuit somewhere. Another possibility is the solenoid itself is going bad.
But... since you say you've checked all that it's probably none of those causes.
I'd be looking at the wiring to the starter switch as the cause especially since you were just working in that area when replacing the TGS.
Good luck.
But... since you say you've checked all that it's probably none of those causes.
I'd be looking at the wiring to the starter switch as the cause especially since you were just working in that area when replacing the TGS.
Good luck.
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#8
1. make sure the battery is fully charged ( trickle chargers or tenders do not do that)
put it on a real battery charger for 24 hours, then take to autozone for a load test)
2.) make sure the cable connections are clean and tight at both ends
3.) then service the solenoid- if you've ever owned a chevy, it's easy.
4.) if solenoid is good, check the starter windings etc.
all this is in the manual
trouble shooting and diagnosis is the challenge, not the physical repair
mike
put it on a real battery charger for 24 hours, then take to autozone for a load test)
2.) make sure the cable connections are clean and tight at both ends
3.) then service the solenoid- if you've ever owned a chevy, it's easy.
4.) if solenoid is good, check the starter windings etc.
all this is in the manual
trouble shooting and diagnosis is the challenge, not the physical repair
mike
thks Mike
#9
a weak battery will damage the solenoid ( which is really just a big switch which can take the 120 or so AMPs the starter will draw.
if the supply voltage is low ( bad battery or cables or connections) the solenoid will "chatter" at which time, rather than making a clean connection, the contacts are arcing and burning up, causing carbon all over.
so don't let it chatter as that'll cause further faults
if your battery is rated for 240 CCA--- that means you need a 10 amp charger for 24 hours.
400 CCA would be 10 amp charger for 40 hours ( see how the math works?)
a 25 or higher amp charger may be too much for the battery to absorb
mike
if the supply voltage is low ( bad battery or cables or connections) the solenoid will "chatter" at which time, rather than making a clean connection, the contacts are arcing and burning up, causing carbon all over.
so don't let it chatter as that'll cause further faults
if your battery is rated for 240 CCA--- that means you need a 10 amp charger for 24 hours.
400 CCA would be 10 amp charger for 40 hours ( see how the math works?)
a 25 or higher amp charger may be too much for the battery to absorb
mike
The following users liked this post:
zatousa (04-29-2017)