Built the best engine cooling system...again
#1791
09-14-2015, 11:17 AM
Just got home last night from a 6 day 1600 mile trip in the northeast section of Calif and high desert of SE Oregon in temps of 94-99* constant, in altitudes of 5000-8000 feet. My motor is a stock 110 with a cat and only cooling addition is the Wards fans. Bike ran flawlessly the entire trip even after fuel stops there was no hot start issues.
I got home from a 310 mile day yesterday nonstop except for 1 gas/food stop, temps started out about 80, hit 100 in the valley, and about 84 when I pulled in my garage. Within 1 minute of shutting the engine down before I pulled the oil plug to drain the oil, I pulled the stick and used my infared temp gun pointing it in the motor oil in the crankcase, 185* . Unfrickinbelievable!
I am also considering the addition of oil cooler fans at some point also.
I got home from a 310 mile day yesterday nonstop except for 1 gas/food stop, temps started out about 80, hit 100 in the valley, and about 84 when I pulled in my garage. Within 1 minute of shutting the engine down before I pulled the oil plug to drain the oil, I pulled the stick and used my infared temp gun pointing it in the motor oil in the crankcase, 185* . Unfrickinbelievable!
I am also considering the addition of oil cooler fans at some point also.
Rick
#1792
09-18-2015, 06:35 PM
Road Captain
#1793
09-18-2015, 10:15 PM
" I added HD's oil cooler to my RK and ETMS still frequently kicked in when I was in stop and go traffic."
Well thats because oil coolers without elec cooling fans are basically useless sitting still in traffic with no are passing thru it.
When you need the oil/motor to be cooled the most sitting still in traffic on a hot day an oil cooler with no elec fans isnt near as efficient as for example an Ultracool oil cooler is with duel thermostatically controlled elec fans moving plenty of air thru it when needed most.
Same goes for when in slow stop & go traffic never getting out of 2nd or 3rd gear then stopping with very little air passing thru an oil cooler without cooling fans at slow speed.
I have wards fans & ultracool oil cooler with duel elec cooling fans & tested with fan power disconnected from oil cooler & wards fans off and the oil temp went very high when at slow speed or sitting in traffic in 85-90deg outside temp.
Then i tested in same cond with power still off on fans on oil cooller but wards fans on and that reduced oil temp some like 10-12 deg but i am sure it reduced temp in heads and upper cyls too where their cooling is targetted.
Just wards fan by themselves cooler the engine temp enough to greatly reduce detonation on HD's rec 91 oct fuel for my 96" motor ans stopped the ETMS from kicking in too which i later diabled .
But when when i had wards fans on along with the power to cooling fans on the oil cooler thats the best cooling for sure where i consistently get 50+ reduction in oil temp on 85-90+ deg days.
The additional cooling the oil cooler with dual elec fans provided are what made the valvetrain stay quiet all the time even in 90+ deeg heat along with the motor also retaining much better/higher oil pressure with no no more detonation at all.
Hot starts post fueling up were easier on starter & battery along with motor also retaining more pwr/trq & crisper throttle response with motor not as heat soaked too.
Thats not my opinion like a lot of guys are stating here that have not tried both cooling mods at same time using same oil like have and are taking plenty of negative shots with not a leg to stand on because you havent done both cooling mods using same oil too.
Me on the other hand posts facts when testing & doing something along with the benefits my bikes motor got from post installing the 2 cooling mods & using spectro hvy dty platinum full syn 20w-50 oil that i found doesnt thin as much as hds syn3 & m1 v-twin both syn 20w-50 do in my bike resulting in lower hot oil pressure then the spectro bike oil did in my bike in same riding cond .
Just the other day i had already been riding in and out of traffic in 95Deg HHH temps for over 1 hr and then got out in the countr4y cruising at 60mph in th gear (2500-2600rpm) thinking to myself the valvetrain is smooth & quiet and oil pressure is holding nice at approx 45-48psi @ cruise (16-17psi @ idle) and how happy i was with cooling systems investment that did that.
I was also thinking how sad it is that there are so many guys posting here about valvetrain noise even after installing the inserts to keep rocker shafts in place & quiet along with issues with low oil pressure when hot and that they may have to install a new hi pressure oil spring or new hi perf hi pressure pump itself when thats not needed at all if they do what i did & now rec thats most guys here are very resistant to doing and think isnt worth while (WHEN IN FACT IS VERY WORTH WHILE) to address the root cause which is excessive heat generated by air cooled HD motors under control so motor and oil arent over heated all the time in warmer summer temp of 80+ deg esp when in stop/go traffic.
If & or when i get another HD if its not water cooled the 1st thing i will do is install wards cooling fans & an ultracool oil cooler with dual elec cooling fans along with draining all 3 holes & refilling with spectro's full syn hvy dty platinum 20w-50 bike oil in the motor & spectros prim & trans oil too all 3 specifically designed & formulated for lrg disp HD motors.
" YOU CAN LEAD A HORSE TO WATER BUT YOU CAN'T MAKE IT DRINK "
Just trying to help but its clear people either think what i have posted is BS or they think its not needed / wont benefit their air cooled HD since they have run them many yrs/many miles with no issues not realizing that ints a lot nice to drive/ride a motor that quieter,has better oil pressure,retains more pwr/trq because motors not alll heat soaked that doesnt detonate anymore that guys with louder pipes cant always hear anayway that in some cases could cause damage over enough time/miles to crack a piston skirt & or piston ,etc .
Scott
#1794
09-18-2015, 10:41 PM
================================================== ======
From what he said that oil temp of 185 deg he got was after he was cruising on open road on way home when it was very hot earlier in the day but when closer to home was considerably cooler which was key to the oil having time to cool to 185 deg when he got home where it was 85 deg outside.
If he had stopped the bike when cruising in 95-100 deg outside temp and tested oil temp at that time it would have a lot higher then 185 deg easily being 225-230-240 deg range without any cooling fans etc and in traffic would have gone higher.
HD states in the factory srvc man for my 09 tc 96" motor that norm op temp for oil is 230deg .
Well the motor on my 09 performs much worse at what hd's calls normal 230 oil op temp resulting in much lower oil pressure ,detonation ,more valvetrain noise, loss of pwr-trq & soggy throttle response when oil temp used to regularly hit 230-235 (240 once in a while) at cruise in 90+ deg outside temp without any cooling mods.
But now oil is running approx 50+ deg cooler in same outside riding cond that took care of / fixed the above issues after i installed wards cooling fans ,ultracool oil cooler with dual elec fans along with spectro's hvy dty platinum full syn 20w-50 oil all at the same time as a " heat management system " that proven to work very well collectively as a cooling team.
From my recent exp testing my air cooled 09 hd with basically stock 96" motor in 95+ deg summer heat without and then with 2 cooling mods i installed i dont think a lrg disp air cooled harley touring bike like an FLHTCU without any cooling mods /cooling fans etc thats been cruising in 95-100deg outside heat for 2-3hrs then stopped to check oil temp (outside temp still @ 95-100deg f ) wont be nice & cool @ 185 deg.
That just isnt gonna happen IMHO without aftermarket cooling mods like wards cooling fans & oil cooler with elec cooling fans that will both working collectively together cool the oil when sitting still in traffic & or when at slow speed creeping in slow traffic.
Scott
From what he said that oil temp of 185 deg he got was after he was cruising on open road on way home when it was very hot earlier in the day but when closer to home was considerably cooler which was key to the oil having time to cool to 185 deg when he got home where it was 85 deg outside.
If he had stopped the bike when cruising in 95-100 deg outside temp and tested oil temp at that time it would have a lot higher then 185 deg easily being 225-230-240 deg range without any cooling fans etc and in traffic would have gone higher.
HD states in the factory srvc man for my 09 tc 96" motor that norm op temp for oil is 230deg .
Well the motor on my 09 performs much worse at what hd's calls normal 230 oil op temp resulting in much lower oil pressure ,detonation ,more valvetrain noise, loss of pwr-trq & soggy throttle response when oil temp used to regularly hit 230-235 (240 once in a while) at cruise in 90+ deg outside temp without any cooling mods.
But now oil is running approx 50+ deg cooler in same outside riding cond that took care of / fixed the above issues after i installed wards cooling fans ,ultracool oil cooler with dual elec fans along with spectro's hvy dty platinum full syn 20w-50 oil all at the same time as a " heat management system " that proven to work very well collectively as a cooling team.
From my recent exp testing my air cooled 09 hd with basically stock 96" motor in 95+ deg summer heat without and then with 2 cooling mods i installed i dont think a lrg disp air cooled harley touring bike like an FLHTCU without any cooling mods /cooling fans etc thats been cruising in 95-100deg outside heat for 2-3hrs then stopped to check oil temp (outside temp still @ 95-100deg f ) wont be nice & cool @ 185 deg.
That just isnt gonna happen IMHO without aftermarket cooling mods like wards cooling fans & oil cooler with elec cooling fans that will both working collectively together cool the oil when sitting still in traffic & or when at slow speed creeping in slow traffic.
Scott
Last edited by wscott; 09-19-2015 at 11:42 PM.
#1796
03-21-2016, 09:34 AM
I've been digging most of the night and can't find anything on how effective Jason's fans are on the new wetheads. I know he's done extensive testing for the air cooled heads, but what about the wetheads? I know just from trying to look through these new heads the flow-through channel in the head is minimal compared to my old '11 air-cooled RGU. I'm sure they would help, but are they going to be as effective to me as all the air-cooled guys?
I rarely subject my bike to any congested traffic conditions when I ride ... I purposely avoid them like the plague, BUT I would like peace of mind when/if the situation arises. This all started when I somehow came across some vids of the hokey looking Love Jug fans. They might move a lot of air, but look like hell and I think the warranty is only a year for something that costs over $400 if you get the newest/smaller/better version. So what happens if they crap out after a year, buy another set? ... I don't think so! Plus, I read that a couple people that used them didn't have much good luck with them .... fell apart from vibration. Like I give a chit you can run them in a fish tank?? ... whatever. My bike sees water as much as it does traffic. To me most of the vids for those were all marketing hype anyway, didn't see any vids from "real" people that put them through the test of time.
I know Jason's fans have stood the test of time, look great, work great, work automatically and he is a stand-up guy that also stands behind his product. I may not be a long time member here, but I have been a long time lurker and I remember years ago when he came out with these fans ... he definitely did his homework. I'm sure there still is a use for them even with the wetheads, just curious if they are any less effective (if any less at all) compared to what he originally designed them for ... air-cooled heads.
I rarely subject my bike to any congested traffic conditions when I ride ... I purposely avoid them like the plague, BUT I would like peace of mind when/if the situation arises. This all started when I somehow came across some vids of the hokey looking Love Jug fans. They might move a lot of air, but look like hell and I think the warranty is only a year for something that costs over $400 if you get the newest/smaller/better version. So what happens if they crap out after a year, buy another set? ... I don't think so! Plus, I read that a couple people that used them didn't have much good luck with them .... fell apart from vibration. Like I give a chit you can run them in a fish tank?? ... whatever. My bike sees water as much as it does traffic. To me most of the vids for those were all marketing hype anyway, didn't see any vids from "real" people that put them through the test of time.
I know Jason's fans have stood the test of time, look great, work great, work automatically and he is a stand-up guy that also stands behind his product. I may not be a long time member here, but I have been a long time lurker and I remember years ago when he came out with these fans ... he definitely did his homework. I'm sure there still is a use for them even with the wetheads, just curious if they are any less effective (if any less at all) compared to what he originally designed them for ... air-cooled heads.
The following users liked this post:
myram (05-29-2016)
#1797
03-21-2016, 01:14 PM
I don't directly know the answer to your question, but I may be able to give you a way to determine if the fans would be worth a shot. I am saying all of this based on being a very satisfied customer of Jason's fans on my 2013 EGC. I also own a wethead BMW R1200RT, not that that matters.
When I first bought the EGC and rode in stop and go traffic, the EITMS would constantly kick in to shut the rear cylinder down. While I understand the reasons, and appreciate the technology, I hated when in happened. So, I ordered the Wards Fans and installed them myself. Since installing the fans, my bike has not gone into EITMS mode even once. I am 100% convinced that this was one of the best mods I did for my bike, and highly recommend them.
So, for the Harley wethead, I'm really not sure. If they have kept the EITMS feature on the wetheads and it kicks in during stop and go traffic, I would get the fans. You must remember that only the heads are liquid cooled, the rest of the cylinder uses air cooling, just as BMW uses on the RT. Now, in stop and go traffic when it is warmer outside, my RT's fan mounted to the radiator will kick on until I get moving again, so there are some cooling issues that need to be mitigated even with a wethead.
My recommendation, based on everything above is that I, personally, would install the fans. They certainly will not hurt anything, and can't help but assist in cooling the finned cylinder when you are moving slowly or stopped.
Maybe Jason should design another mounting that blows are through the radiators...
So those are my thoughts. In addition to the fans, I have added the Capt. itch Crotch Cooler. It works great in conjunction with the Wards Fans and keeps both you and the motorcycle much cooler. Both are highly recommended.
When I first bought the EGC and rode in stop and go traffic, the EITMS would constantly kick in to shut the rear cylinder down. While I understand the reasons, and appreciate the technology, I hated when in happened. So, I ordered the Wards Fans and installed them myself. Since installing the fans, my bike has not gone into EITMS mode even once. I am 100% convinced that this was one of the best mods I did for my bike, and highly recommend them.
So, for the Harley wethead, I'm really not sure. If they have kept the EITMS feature on the wetheads and it kicks in during stop and go traffic, I would get the fans. You must remember that only the heads are liquid cooled, the rest of the cylinder uses air cooling, just as BMW uses on the RT. Now, in stop and go traffic when it is warmer outside, my RT's fan mounted to the radiator will kick on until I get moving again, so there are some cooling issues that need to be mitigated even with a wethead.
My recommendation, based on everything above is that I, personally, would install the fans. They certainly will not hurt anything, and can't help but assist in cooling the finned cylinder when you are moving slowly or stopped.
Maybe Jason should design another mounting that blows are through the radiators...
So those are my thoughts. In addition to the fans, I have added the Capt. itch Crotch Cooler. It works great in conjunction with the Wards Fans and keeps both you and the motorcycle much cooler. Both are highly recommended.
#1798
03-21-2016, 07:13 PM
Road Warrior
As far a oil temps go I've always belived they should be 212- 220 ish even a bit higher running temp is ok to vaporize any condensation and expel it as steam through the beathers.I had seen as high as 270's before installing Wards FCS. So now 230-240 on long hot days doesn't bother me. I only use full synth. without any oil cooler on a stock 96"
#1799
07-30-2016, 06:36 AM
1st Gear
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Saudi Arabia
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi
First a shout out to 2black1’s, who published the parade fan test data and really motivated me to change direction in my cooling pursuit. Before any of the manufactured fan assist systems were marketed, I built a 10 row Jagg based fan assist system that still exceeds the cooling potential of anything you can purchase today. After running this system for 20K miles over 4 riding seasons, and tweaking it along the way, I realized that I would not break my benchmark of 200F oil in the summer on my stock lean tune. I started thinking that attacking the heat on two fronts would be the best approach, by running the oil cooler and the parade fan.
So anyway back in my garage early this summer I had a decent beer buzz on, and I’m sitting there staring at a TC head I had on the bench, when I acknowledged the channel that runs all the way through the head from side to side, and then on closer inspection there is another channel that runs front to back, and the two cross in the middle. So I start pondering these channels that run through the heads and how they affect cooling, when it hits me that maybe just a little bit of air directed through these channels could have a great impact on cooling.
After several different fans and temporary mounts to test the theory, I concluded that yes this is a highly viable pursuit. I ordered my materials, and within just a few weeks I completed my prototype. Much to my dismay, I saw a post a few weeks ago about a product called “Love Jugs”, which is very similar to my project. I couldn't find anything on the web about who makes them, but I hope they initiated the patent process, because I did. It was revealed by a new member with his first post, he purchased it at Daytona Biketoberfest this fall, and went on to describe it’s effectiveness with both fans each being more powerful than the individual Lenale and Harley parade fans: which is good right, maybe?
It will be difficult to convince the bigger is better crowd, but I now have a new theory that the size of the fan is not the limiting factor for cylinder head cooling but rather the cylinder head itself , by virtue of its fin design, surface area, and thermal transfer properties of the base metal, determines the rate at which heat can be dispersed. The head can only shed so much heat, at some point adding more air will not continue to improve cooling potential. I think the volume and force of air required to maximize cooling potential is far less than the parade fans in use today.
Having been working on my own very similar project, I can see immediately that the “Love Juggs” design is no doubt the most powerful cooling device going, in fact it is overkill by a long shot. I took a low power approach and focused a small amount of air on the area of greatest heat concentration. My prototype is pushing a whopping 23 CFM of air on each head and it does a very nice job at cooling with a total combined power draw of less than 1.4 amps. I got to ride in 80F ambient and my rear CHT never broke 265F, and my oil never broke 200F. If you don’t think that the rear CHT at 265F is not that impressive, consider that a lot of folks report oil temps that high, and higher. Granted these figures are preliminary findings and don’t really mean squat until fully tested, but I feel this is very promising.
I built this around the factory horn so you don’t have to relocate, and I kept the profile small so it’s not too intrusive, and I personally think it looks pretty damn good even if I did build it. I am going to go ahead and build another prototype slightly more powerful, just in case the summer heat overwhelms the original system. Almost forgot the key ingredient, the automatic switching system, the fan comes on automatically when two conditions are met, the rear CHT exceeds 250F (+/- 10 degrees after you factor thermal lag) and the bike is traveling below 35 MPH, once you accelerate above 35 it shuts off, with an added bonus of ignition off delay, which allows the fans to run for up to 2 minutes after shutdown. Most folks fully understand that as long as you’re moving your cooling, but the also underestimate just how fast temperature rises as soon a s you slow down or stop. Basically the moment you roll to a stop or hit slow traffic the fan automatically kicks on and prevents the motor from ever getting hot in the first place, as opposed to a manual switch that has to be turned on when the operator feels like the bike is hot
As with my oil temp goal, I needed a bench mark for optimum CHTs. I read a quote by Donny Petersen that just didn’t sound quite right, to paraphrase, Bob Woods said CHTs need to be kept at 210F or below to prevent detonation in a performance build. I called Mr. Woods to discuss this and he told me that 260-280F is very good and keeping CHTs below 260F is excellent. I honestly don’t understand why CHTs aren’t the industry standard for measuring temp on an air cooled Harley, besides there is already an OEM CHT sensor in the front head that provides temp input to the ECM. How hard would it be for Harley to offer a CHT gauge to display what’s already being measured? Sure there would be some initial shock value with the general public because the numbers would be a lot higher than the oil temp numbers that people are used to, but it wouldn’t take long to establish what “normal” CHTs should be.
I’m able to read front and rear CHTs and oil temp at several points in the system; my homemade monitoring station has allowed me to make a lot of new observations about cooling. It’s kinda cool to make new observations, but it’s also frustrating because nobody believes you unless the experts make the claim first. Anyway, now I definitely believe you need a two systems approach to achieve maximum cooling. Natural air flow across the cylinder heads and the oil cooler takes care of cooling at highway speeds when your motor is producing the most heat, and the fans on the oil cooler and heads take care of cooling when you are sitting still or moving slowly and the bike cant get rid of the heat. Honestly I’m thinking a fan assist oil cooler may not even be necessary with a head fan system like mine. The majority of the heat in the oil comes from the heads, keep the heads cooler and the oil stays cooler. I think this has a lot of potential to change the street performance game for Harleys, for those who aren’t too stubborn to embrace it.
Preliminary results:
Conditions; Stock lean tune, 80F Ambient temp, bike was previously warmed up, then about a 35 minutes ride at lunch cruising 65 MPH and below. (this is just one data set to demonstrate this does work, the project is still young and will require much more observation and data logging)
Stopped moving, engine running
ENG ON OT RCHT FCHT
+0 min 195 255 250
+1 min 194 260 250
+2 min 195 260 250
+3 min 195 260 253
+4 min 196 262 253
+5 min 196 262 260
IGN OFF
+1 min 193 255 255
+2 min 190 240 240
So anyway back in my garage early this summer I had a decent beer buzz on, and I’m sitting there staring at a TC head I had on the bench, when I acknowledged the channel that runs all the way through the head from side to side, and then on closer inspection there is another channel that runs front to back, and the two cross in the middle. So I start pondering these channels that run through the heads and how they affect cooling, when it hits me that maybe just a little bit of air directed through these channels could have a great impact on cooling.
After several different fans and temporary mounts to test the theory, I concluded that yes this is a highly viable pursuit. I ordered my materials, and within just a few weeks I completed my prototype. Much to my dismay, I saw a post a few weeks ago about a product called “Love Jugs”, which is very similar to my project. I couldn't find anything on the web about who makes them, but I hope they initiated the patent process, because I did. It was revealed by a new member with his first post, he purchased it at Daytona Biketoberfest this fall, and went on to describe it’s effectiveness with both fans each being more powerful than the individual Lenale and Harley parade fans: which is good right, maybe?
It will be difficult to convince the bigger is better crowd, but I now have a new theory that the size of the fan is not the limiting factor for cylinder head cooling but rather the cylinder head itself , by virtue of its fin design, surface area, and thermal transfer properties of the base metal, determines the rate at which heat can be dispersed. The head can only shed so much heat, at some point adding more air will not continue to improve cooling potential. I think the volume and force of air required to maximize cooling potential is far less than the parade fans in use today.
Having been working on my own very similar project, I can see immediately that the “Love Juggs” design is no doubt the most powerful cooling device going, in fact it is overkill by a long shot. I took a low power approach and focused a small amount of air on the area of greatest heat concentration. My prototype is pushing a whopping 23 CFM of air on each head and it does a very nice job at cooling with a total combined power draw of less than 1.4 amps. I got to ride in 80F ambient and my rear CHT never broke 265F, and my oil never broke 200F. If you don’t think that the rear CHT at 265F is not that impressive, consider that a lot of folks report oil temps that high, and higher. Granted these figures are preliminary findings and don’t really mean squat until fully tested, but I feel this is very promising.
I built this around the factory horn so you don’t have to relocate, and I kept the profile small so it’s not too intrusive, and I personally think it looks pretty damn good even if I did build it. I am going to go ahead and build another prototype slightly more powerful, just in case the summer heat overwhelms the original system. Almost forgot the key ingredient, the automatic switching system, the fan comes on automatically when two conditions are met, the rear CHT exceeds 250F (+/- 10 degrees after you factor thermal lag) and the bike is traveling below 35 MPH, once you accelerate above 35 it shuts off, with an added bonus of ignition off delay, which allows the fans to run for up to 2 minutes after shutdown. Most folks fully understand that as long as you’re moving your cooling, but the also underestimate just how fast temperature rises as soon a s you slow down or stop. Basically the moment you roll to a stop or hit slow traffic the fan automatically kicks on and prevents the motor from ever getting hot in the first place, as opposed to a manual switch that has to be turned on when the operator feels like the bike is hot
As with my oil temp goal, I needed a bench mark for optimum CHTs. I read a quote by Donny Petersen that just didn’t sound quite right, to paraphrase, Bob Woods said CHTs need to be kept at 210F or below to prevent detonation in a performance build. I called Mr. Woods to discuss this and he told me that 260-280F is very good and keeping CHTs below 260F is excellent. I honestly don’t understand why CHTs aren’t the industry standard for measuring temp on an air cooled Harley, besides there is already an OEM CHT sensor in the front head that provides temp input to the ECM. How hard would it be for Harley to offer a CHT gauge to display what’s already being measured? Sure there would be some initial shock value with the general public because the numbers would be a lot higher than the oil temp numbers that people are used to, but it wouldn’t take long to establish what “normal” CHTs should be.
I’m able to read front and rear CHTs and oil temp at several points in the system; my homemade monitoring station has allowed me to make a lot of new observations about cooling. It’s kinda cool to make new observations, but it’s also frustrating because nobody believes you unless the experts make the claim first. Anyway, now I definitely believe you need a two systems approach to achieve maximum cooling. Natural air flow across the cylinder heads and the oil cooler takes care of cooling at highway speeds when your motor is producing the most heat, and the fans on the oil cooler and heads take care of cooling when you are sitting still or moving slowly and the bike cant get rid of the heat. Honestly I’m thinking a fan assist oil cooler may not even be necessary with a head fan system like mine. The majority of the heat in the oil comes from the heads, keep the heads cooler and the oil stays cooler. I think this has a lot of potential to change the street performance game for Harleys, for those who aren’t too stubborn to embrace it.
Preliminary results:
Conditions; Stock lean tune, 80F Ambient temp, bike was previously warmed up, then about a 35 minutes ride at lunch cruising 65 MPH and below. (this is just one data set to demonstrate this does work, the project is still young and will require much more observation and data logging)
Stopped moving, engine running
ENG ON OT RCHT FCHT
+0 min 195 255 250
+1 min 194 260 250
+2 min 195 260 250
+3 min 195 260 253
+4 min 196 262 253
+5 min 196 262 260
IGN OFF
+1 min 193 255 255
+2 min 190 240 240
Hi
I wish we have similar thing here in KSA where temperature reaches really high levels 4 seasons a year ... In summer temperature reaches 60 !
I am glad to come across this subject in your forum & I hope to get some help in deciding which cooling system should I use !
Is there is any picture for the fabricated part you've made and does it fit Sportster XL1200c / 2013?
If I install cooler fan for the engine cams & ultracool oil cooler ... Would I get any improvement on the performance ?
Thank you
#1800
01-23-2017, 08:34 AM
Road Master
I've been digging most of the night and can't find anything on how effective Jason's fans are on the new wetheads. I know he's done extensive testing for the air cooled heads, but what about the wetheads? I know just from trying to look through these new heads the flow-through channel in the head is minimal compared to my old '11 air-cooled RGU. I'm sure they would help, but are they going to be as effective to me as all the air-cooled guys?
I know Jason's fans have stood the test of time, look great, work great, work automatically and he is a stand-up guy that also stands behind his product. I may not be a long time member here, but I have been a long time lurker and I remember years ago when he came out with these fans ... he definitely did his homework. I'm sure there still is a use for them even with the wetheads, just curious if they are any less effective (if any less at all) compared to what he originally designed them for ... air-cooled heads.
I know Jason's fans have stood the test of time, look great, work great, work automatically and he is a stand-up guy that also stands behind his product. I may not be a long time member here, but I have been a long time lurker and I remember years ago when he came out with these fans ... he definitely did his homework. I'm sure there still is a use for them even with the wetheads, just curious if they are any less effective (if any less at all) compared to what he originally designed them for ... air-cooled heads.