SE Compensator...Just Do It!!!!!!
#31
01-02-2012, 10:37 PM
Road Warrior
#32
01-02-2012, 11:58 PM
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The bikes with 96" motors and some of the 103" motors. Basically 07 to some 11s. I did comp and rebuilt the starter a few weeks ago and it made a big difference. Unfortunately i only got about 30miles on it before it went into hibernation. Cant wait to get some quality seat time on her to really tell though.
#33
01-03-2012, 10:42 AM
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#34
01-03-2012, 10:53 AM
I totally agree with your statement. I believe it is starter noise that is making some of the "bang" that most are hearing.
But, I went ahead and changed-out my compensator to the SE version on my 2010 Limited. There was nothing wrong with the stocker, other than it was just a stock compensator. Lots of stories about guys having their compensator bolt "come loose" after the dealer did the work. That was probably because it was not torqued properly or torqued using the sprocket lock tool instead of holding the 1.75 inch nut with a big *** wrench and torquing to specs with appropriate red locktite. (initially to 100 lbs, then back off a full turn, then torque to 140 ft lbs). I used the "grind" method and did not have to remove the clutch or the inner primary. It was pretty easy.
The bike does start easier now. The spring pack in the SE is a real step forward compared to the stocker.
I believe proper lubrication is essential to keeping spoke erosion to a minimum. A good synthetic oil with good shear rating would be a fine choice for the primary compartment. Be sure to make sure the lube is clutch-friendly.
But, I went ahead and changed-out my compensator to the SE version on my 2010 Limited. There was nothing wrong with the stocker, other than it was just a stock compensator. Lots of stories about guys having their compensator bolt "come loose" after the dealer did the work. That was probably because it was not torqued properly or torqued using the sprocket lock tool instead of holding the 1.75 inch nut with a big *** wrench and torquing to specs with appropriate red locktite. (initially to 100 lbs, then back off a full turn, then torque to 140 ft lbs). I used the "grind" method and did not have to remove the clutch or the inner primary. It was pretty easy.
The bike does start easier now. The spring pack in the SE is a real step forward compared to the stocker.
I believe proper lubrication is essential to keeping spoke erosion to a minimum. A good synthetic oil with good shear rating would be a fine choice for the primary compartment. Be sure to make sure the lube is clutch-friendly.
#35
01-03-2012, 11:02 AM
Road Master
#36
01-03-2012, 11:11 AM
Ultimate HDF Member
#37
01-03-2012, 11:21 AM
It's a heavier unit with stronger springs, the jury is out in my mind as to being better. This is just my take. With all the talk about possible crank issues, why add extra mass on the end of it? Maybe it doesn't matter, maybe my stock comp will give it up on the next ride, who knows?
#38
01-03-2012, 02:50 PM
Until they redesign the thing, you have to look at it like it's an expense like new tires. The thing will just wear out. But for the first 20K miles it's great. I ran mine for 30 to 35K before I changed it out again. It starts out making a little noise when you ride double and you start up a hill. At first you can give it more or less gas and the noise will go away. The trouble is the noise gets louder and and more often as you put more miles on it. After a while you will willingly pay the $300 to get rid of the noise.
Then you're good to go for another 20K.
Then you're good to go for another 20K.
The effect of upgrading to the SE comp was similar to what's been reported by others, which is smoother shifting and no starter knock. I changed it out only because I had the primary apart to replace a #8967 tranny mainshaft bearing, and I didn't have any major complaints with the stock comp. It was an opportunity to install it at no labor charge and at this point in time I'm glad I did it.
Last edited by iclick; 01-03-2012 at 03:06 PM.
#39
01-03-2012, 03:30 PM
Road Warrior
'audible loud knock coming from the primary chain case on each engine startup. knock appears to originate from the compensator sprocket assembly which cushions the drive side crankshaft sprocket and the primary drive assembly when striking each other at engine startup. many compensator sprocket assemblies have been found in failure mode and have been replaced with a more robust unit (factory installed on 2010 and later models) under warranty. failure in service could be catastrophic and operator injury or death could result. manufacturer is aware of issues but have not recalled any units for refit of upgraded component.
Read more: http://www.faqs.org/car/harley-david...#ixzz1iLqA7B8E
Read more: http://www.faqs.org/car/harley-david...#ixzz1iLqA7B8E
"Factory installed on 2010 and later models". So, does that mean with my 2010 bike, I'm good then? It has the "more robust unit"?
I'm asking because I'm about to pull the trigger on the SE comp kit. I got a hell of a bang the other day upon start up. Seems it does it if the bike hasn't been started in a while. Any thoughts on that as well??
Last edited by Jack Straw; 01-03-2012 at 03:37 PM.
#40
01-03-2012, 04:03 PM
"Factory installed on 2010 and later models". So, does that mean with my 2010 bike, I'm good then? It has the "more robust unit"?
I'm asking because I'm about to pull the trigger on the SE comp kit. I got a hell of a bang the other day upon start up. Seems it does it if the bike hasn't been started in a while. Any thoughts on that as well??
I'm asking because I'm about to pull the trigger on the SE comp kit. I got a hell of a bang the other day upon start up. Seems it does it if the bike hasn't been started in a while. Any thoughts on that as well??
I bought a end of year 2010 and it had the standard comp from the factory.