I have a 05 RK Clasic, and have the infamous leaky valve guide seals, 1 QT in 1000 miles, and fouling the rear plug.

I am going to do a cam plate, cams switch out soon.

While I am in there, I want to install new valve guide seals.

My question is, is it possible to put air presure to the cylinder to hold the valve up, remove the keepers and spring and switch out the seals?
Has anybody tried this, or is it better to remove the heads and do it properly?

I dont have a problem with fabricating anything I need to compress the springs, but was just wondering if there is any clearance problems.

Thanks for any input!

 

Please do tell how many miles on your 05? Thanks and please keep us informed on repair process.
Good Luck.... Tim.

 

they are making a tool that does this on the motor, can't remember the name of it google it. but, I am willing to bet that you have more than just bad seals, kinda think the guides may be getting loose, or wear between the stem and guide, be careful, seals might fix it for a short time, and you'll be right back in there, how many miles? by that time you can pop the heads and get the guides done, too. ( as well as porting , polishing, bigger valves corrected geometry! ) only kidding!

 

Guess where that oil goes once it gets past the seals?
Some of it will bake onto the valves before the rest goes into the cylinders.
Best to remove the heads and go thru them.

 

harleycharlie and 1 flhtk make very good points regarding the valve guides as a possible leak area. I seem to recall that 05's had an issue with guides coming loose and the fix is to pull the heads and replace as necessary.

Regarding your question about the valve seals leaking, I had some communication some years ago with an old schoolie from another site (who unfortunately has passed) who used small diameter rope as packing, fed into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. After putting the cylinder under LIGHT compression on the compression stroke, he was able to change out the valve seals alone--not the guides though.

I have not done or seen this, but as he said it worked, I have no reason to believe it didn't.

 

yes to answer your question air will work to hold valves in place when changing seals. also bring motor to tdc, (make sure motor doesn't roll when air is turned on) that way even if air supply drops off the piston will keep valve in place, if it drops in, you're pulling the head anyway

 

Yeah, I have done this on a Caddy V8 and it worked well.

Get the cyl to TDC, then use a clamp on the brake pedal to keep the back brake on.

You only need 20 or so PSI to keep the valves seated.

Compressing the valve springs is tough as they are set down in the casting, I couldnt get my compressor onto them (my heads are S&S, the stock ones might be easier). By the time you fabricate a valve spring compressor it might be quicker to pull the heads. Pulling the exhaust and intake is time consuming (I did it a few weeks ago, and have to put it back on this weekend) so I think changing the seals only would be worth a try if you have a valve spring compressor that works.

As others have said they guides might be suspect tho, and getting to the valve seals on the rear cyl would be challenging too.

 

Thanks for all the feed back, looks like the heads are coming off for further inspection, as noted I forgot to mention mileage on the bike, been an oil burner all its life, just getting worse lately... 21,000 miles.
Thanks again.

 

on My 05 THED MOCO pulled to heads off the line and fed ex them to dealer overnight....installed and ran good for another 2000 miles

 

My opinion is pull the heads, send them out to get the guides installed and have the ports cleaned up while they are out. You dont have to spend a fortune and you will definitely see a real increase in power. Big Boyz will port them, cc them, mill them and ship them back to you for well under $500. bigboyzheadporting.com