went +6 on a top brake cable change (new bars) 2011 FLHR, I've never bled motorcycle brakes with ABS, is there a simple process or do I have to have the Digital TechII at the dealer do it?

does any air gets into the rear ABS module/line?

 

I was told the dealer needs to do the ABS bleed, Digi tech cycles the abs module during the process. Don't know if it's impossible at home, but thats what they said.

 

Mine said the same thing.

 

Did mine w/o going to stealer. Do reverse bleed to remove air out of new line through M/C.

 

are you saying to drain old fluid, then install new line? what would be the refill point? and with what?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by billd
Did mine w/o going to stealer. Do reverse bleed to remove air out of new line through M/C.

Buck- With master cylinder (M/C) cap on: First disconnect upper brake line from ABS module, very little fluid will drip, but have a rag ready. Put open end of that line into a container, remove M/C cap and drain M/C. Disconnect banjo at M/C... be ready for remaining Dot 4 to drain into container and drip at banjo. Connect new brake line.

For Reverse Bleed you'll need clear tube 3/16" ID (5/16" OD) from Lowes or Home Depot, I used 4'. And you'll need something to push Dot 4 through the clear tube into the bleeder valve... I used a syringe (no needle needed) I'd gotten from Granger, the clear tube will screw onto the syringe. (I read of someone making a squeeze bottle; Plastic Coke bottle with a 3/16" nipple attached to the cap, and a breather hole on the bottom).

Heat one end of the clear tube and slipping over the bleeder valve nipple, this will make a good fit. Remove clear tube from nip. Full your syringe by sucking dot 4 into it, attach clear tube to syringe and FULL clear tube keeping open end higher then syringe so all air is removed. Attach clear tube to bleeder valve nip. Now hold syringe high and check clear tube for any air bubbles, if any, allow them to float up to the syringe (tapping the tube will help move them along.

Open bleeder valve and inject dot 4. if you need to refill syringe, close the bleeder valve... unscrew the syringe (keeping open end of clear tube high)... suck more dot 4 into syringe... attach clear tube... tap out any air from the clear tube... inject...

Keep an eye on M/C for dot 4 entering. Fluid will have foamy air bubbles at first, continue injecting until no more bubbles... you may need to remove some dot 4 from M/C to avoid overflow (I used syringe to suck some out).

Tip: Before injecting; Position your new brake line so fluid has a continuous up-hill climb to M/C, as down dips in the line could trap air. I also manipulated the new brake line once filled; working from ABS module moving upwards... I'd create steeper angles and tap the line to move along any bubbles that possible clung-on.

That's it. Easy. No mess. Took less then 1 hour.

 

sounds like a doable DIY job, guess my question would be is, how to avoid getting air into the ABS module from the get go?, after removing banjo fitting to take off old line up to the m/c?
also, is this process done only at the front R/L bleeder valves which will still have fluid in both sides on the lower line? while the new mid/upper lines are nothing but air?
thank you for how-to, the reverse method seems to be the way to go?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBk00597EyE

 

Buck- Good Video, just a little simpler without the concern for trapped air pockets. No air gets into ABS module because Dot 4 will remain full in lines from calipers up through the ABS module up to the banjo connection, if you don't let any fluid out through the bleeder valve (especially the first time you open the valve since there'll be not a lot of fluid above the ABS unit. Also, I only worked from the right side, didn't touch the left since no way for air to get in there.

 

Do you bleed at one bleeder valve or do you have to bleed at all?

 

Or you can just do what I did. It's a simple process of displacing air with fluid.
I'll skip all the "cover this and protect that", that's up to you.

First, remove old brake line. At this point the hole in top of the ABS module will be full of fluid as will be the M/C.
Then, install new brake line to M/C, remove M/C cover.
Now, pump brake lever while holding the open end of line higher than the M/C. when fluid comes out stop and tap the line few times then keep pumping for a while. while your doing this keep an eye on the fluid level in the M/C and add when needed.
When line is full, put your finger over the end and bring it down to the module. Remove finger and stab fitting, make it up about 2 theards. Gently squeeze the brake till fluid comes out and tighten the fitting.
Top off M/C and replace cover, your done.