Do not use wd-40 on sensors. It will foul them because it leaves a coating behind. Mass air flow cleaner works wonders.

 

My 06 EGS runs find , gas mileage is great ,just when it sits in traffic in warm weather for a little period of time it starts idling low , have to give a little throttle to keep it going . After it cools off its fine .

 

I suspect I'm having an issue with my IAC. However, all the info I've read regarding cleaning says there's a port just in front of the butterfly. Well, not on my 2012 FLHX. If I open the butterfly there is what appears to a port at about 1 oclock. There's also black thing at noon behind that port. I assume one of those is the IAC port. I'll see if I can get a good picture of it when I get a chance.

BTW: My bike runs great, but it will stall at idle once it's warmed up. It has just over 10k on it.

 

FYI. This practice should primarily be aimed at 2007 models. The intake design had been changed in the 08's and at least once since. Eliminating the need to do it.
The reason the 07's are susceptible to problems is that the IAC port is in the line of fire of the oil mist coming from the breather system. I also think the open element of the SE AC's (and the like) compound the issue by changing the pressure dynamics over the stock AC.

 

I know this is an old thread, but how exactly do you "cycle the sensor"? All I recall is a small hole and the IAC module mounted on top.

 

Turn the ignition on. Turn the run/stop switch on and off while spraying cleaner into the IAC orifice.

 

It is a bit of a curse, but I am rather **** about correct names. I double checked the parts diagrams and after 2007 there is no IAC listed on the diagrams for the touring machines. They now show a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. They do indeed get dirty and I have cleaned mine a few times with the MAF cleaner fluid. It seems ideal for that purpose.

 

I see this is an older post, from what I am reading this describes what issue I am having.
my idle is staying at 1,000 maybe dropping to 950 or so. when at a stop light it feels like the engine is about the die, as the engine feels like it is shaking more then normal. I will say this is an very intermittent issue.
I would like to know if anyone ever posted any pictures of cleaning the IAC if they did where would I look for them?
thanks

 

Behind the air cleaner, open butterfly and spray sensor with CRC cleaner (I have mine removed in the first picture, but the arrow shows where the sensor goes; it hangs down into the intake port).

Second picture below shows a dirty TMAP sensor, the little diode in the middle should be all yellow, no black (black stuff is all gunk). I replaced mine, but you can clean it while it is in place if it's not fowled up too bad.

 

Most symptons I've read for a fouled IAC is the after a run at higher rpms and then coming to a stop, traffic control device, the idle is hard to find. That usually is indicative of a dirty IAC. When the idle drops and the engine feels like it's going to stall but no problems driving off, is usually the heat management system cutting off fuel to the rear cylinder to prevent excess heat to the driver. Check your owners manual on how to "enable" or "disable " the heat management program.