the minute I started reading this I knew 1. you were an old audio head (same here) and 2. where you were going with it.

Unfortunately the amount of current required to flow would also require the use of a stiffening capacitor the size of the battery itself. :-)

 

FWIW, I just replaced my 07 RKC battery a few months ago. The battery tender showed a fully charged condition, all dressed up ready to ride on a Saturday, hit the starter, cranked one time then flat. I noticed it had been cranking slower the months prior and decided to wait. Sent the wife to get a battery while I removed the old one, back in the saddle in no time. Good thing my local dealer was close and open (winter in PA). I have no problem paying 170 for a factory battery that fits perfect and lasts over 6 years.

 

Yep. Like starter, stater , regulator and maybe a tow bill

 

My battery started sounding a little downtrodden and taking a bit of time to spool up the starter, more so than I'd like. With my old EGC I bought an HD battery. It did OK but they are really proud of those batteries! Someone was saying that a stock battery is about 233+/-CCA? I bought this bike used so I really have/had no idea how old the battery was.

I have a batteries+ right near me. I went online and did some research. They had a "Duracell" battery that fit my bike (07 FLHX.) Further the specs showed it as putting out 400cca. The battery was 159.xx. But by ordering online (to pick up) I got a 10% discount. The battery ended up being about 143.00. Having never had a Duracell battery in a bike I will be interested in seeing how this thing works. Oh, it came with a year warranty and it's a AGM type battery. Right now I'm dumping a little trickle in it before I install it.

 

That's what I did, the 30LA, with a two-year warranty. None of the other batteries I looked at had a betterr warranty.

 

Yuasa 500 CCA ... great battery.
My 14 Roadking OEM battery was never great, replaced it 2.5 years later, day and night difference in cranking power.

When comparing batteries MAKE SURE to only buy batteries with a CCA COLD cranking amps. NOT cranking amps.

Cold Cranking Amps IS the industry standard, cranking amps is a way to fool you into thinking you are getting a more powerful battery then you are.

If you ever replace your battery, 500 cold cranking amps is what you should buy, Yuasa on Amazon or ebay has them, as well as other sites. Less then $150.00 delivered to your door.

 

Thread Revival.

I just purchased this battery for my road glide. $140 plus tt&l.

https://www.batteriesplus.com/batter.../2003/cyl10009

 

This is such an old thread, I suppose the OP is long gone. As most probably recognize, he was confused between cranking amps and cranking voltage. He had the threshold voltage of 9.7 when hitting the starter button to suggest replacing the battery soon. A load tester tests a battery out of the machine and may give a false passing grade. Presuming a guy checks his wiring for being clean and tight, if the battery won't deliver at LEAST 9.7 volts at first, it is tired. Anyone with a quick reacting digital volt meter can clamp the leads to his battery and hit the starter and watch for the lowest voltage. If it is 9.7, start saving your money. That battery in your bike is nearing the end. It can't provide the juice needed through YOUR wiring, YOUR starter relay, YOUR starter solenoid, YOUR starter brushes and bearings. That is the test that counts. 16 months for the beginning of slower cranking matches my experience with Big Crank batteries AND the factory battery here in Oklahoma, hot summers. Did that Duracell battery or box say where the battery was made? Just curious, as I have decided to go with the Yuasa when my present battery starts these same symptoms again.