Speedometer stops working
#1
Speedometer stops working
This weekend I rode down to the Gulf of Mexico, FT. Walton to be exact and on the trip down my speedo quit working. First the needle would bounce around then it would not register at all. The odometer reading remained constant which lead me to beleive it was the speedo sensor. On the way back I stopped at a HD dealership and bought a new speedo sensor $60, which after installing it fixed the problem. My bike is a 2001 FLHR Roadking with 55,000 miles. You may want to remove your speedo sensor around 40,000 miles and clean the pickup part of the sensor which works off a magnetic pulse and collects metal shavings from the smooth shifting straight cut gear transmission (yes, thats sarcasm). I dont know about the life of the sensor but this may prolong its life. I didnt clean the orginal sensor before replacing it, so I dont know if cleaning the sensor would have fixed the problem. I also noticed in the DIY forum that this topic is discussed and reads as follows:
If your bike's speedo stops registering speed and your odometer does not move as far as registering miles traveled, you also realize that your directional signals do not self cancel, your problem is more than likely the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) on the transmission. It collects metal particles that are from the wear in the transmission being that it is a magnetic pickup that reads off the 4 th gear cog in the transmission. You can clean it off then replace it, but most times it will go bad again real soon. The best thing to do is replace it. I believe the cost is around $50. A simple repair requiring one bolt for removal. It's located on the transmission just behind the rear pipe. A good quality gear lube will all but eliminate this problem.
From the last sentence it reads that 'a good quality gear lube will all but eliminate this problem', so does that mean it wont help it at all? Or maybe the 'all but' should be left out of that sentence. Also on replacing the sensor, on a touring model youll have to remove your battery to access the pin connector in which the sensor plugs into. I also had to remove the pins from the connector to get the wire from under the starter in which it is routed, but if your replacing the sensor your could cut the wire.
If your bike's speedo stops registering speed and your odometer does not move as far as registering miles traveled, you also realize that your directional signals do not self cancel, your problem is more than likely the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) on the transmission. It collects metal particles that are from the wear in the transmission being that it is a magnetic pickup that reads off the 4 th gear cog in the transmission. You can clean it off then replace it, but most times it will go bad again real soon. The best thing to do is replace it. I believe the cost is around $50. A simple repair requiring one bolt for removal. It's located on the transmission just behind the rear pipe. A good quality gear lube will all but eliminate this problem.
From the last sentence it reads that 'a good quality gear lube will all but eliminate this problem', so does that mean it wont help it at all? Or maybe the 'all but' should be left out of that sentence. Also on replacing the sensor, on a touring model youll have to remove your battery to access the pin connector in which the sensor plugs into. I also had to remove the pins from the connector to get the wire from under the starter in which it is routed, but if your replacing the sensor your could cut the wire.
#2
RE: Speedometer stops working
Kevin
A good gear lube ( I prefer redline shock proof heavy) or even the Mobil1 75/90 will prolong the replacement of the sensor, will it completely eliminate it? Can't answer that question truthfully because everything has an expiration date on it. You'll notice when guys run syn 3 in the trans[:@], that the metal particles are abundant on the pickup, which is what causes it's demise. With the redline I use, most of the times you will have to look real hard to even find these shavings on the pickup, so that speaks for itself for me. Fewer or no shavings as compared to a fuzz farm works for me. It also tells me that there is less wear going on inside the trans
I would remove the battery instead of cutting the wire. One less possible trouble source.
A good gear lube ( I prefer redline shock proof heavy) or even the Mobil1 75/90 will prolong the replacement of the sensor, will it completely eliminate it? Can't answer that question truthfully because everything has an expiration date on it. You'll notice when guys run syn 3 in the trans[:@], that the metal particles are abundant on the pickup, which is what causes it's demise. With the redline I use, most of the times you will have to look real hard to even find these shavings on the pickup, so that speaks for itself for me. Fewer or no shavings as compared to a fuzz farm works for me. It also tells me that there is less wear going on inside the trans
I would remove the battery instead of cutting the wire. One less possible trouble source.
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FreddyP
Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch
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07-07-2006 11:42 AM