Being cheap and lazy, I got some velcro and velcro'd my remote under the auxiliary switch housing on the inside of the left side looking forward, kinda tight but fit. It's out of sight, easy to activate, out of weather, and when the battery goes, easy to remove. Just a thought.

 

I'm with you man. I got one of those small (micro) remotes. Used some double side tape to mount it on the inside of my inner fairing - just under the right side. It's easy to access but nobody but me would even know it's there. Works great!

 

As Robert De Niro said while holding a cigerette shaking his finger...."you guys......."

 

It is the odometer reset switch but I like the idea of the 3 position toggle switch. Thanks for the information!

 

NAPA sells a couple of versions of the reflector style and are quite competitively priced. napaonline.com

 

HA! I was there earlier this week. I love going down there. They've always got cool gadgets.

 

I did the OP's mod a couple years ago and within a year the threads on the back of the rubber button stripped out and the button itself fell into the fairing.

Has anyone else ran into this issue and what are you doing to fix/prevent it?

 

Last weekend, I added a garage door opener switch to my '09 Street Glide. I used a Liftmaster opener (Amazon, $25) and the Harley momentary switch (PN 71764-07, $35) originally designed for the CVO Electric Saddlebag lock.

For starters, the Liftmaster opener works great, in fact I have two of them and they both work great. When I soldered the switch wires to the opener circuit board, the opener now works intermittently even before I installed the switch on my Street Glide.

So, I unsoldered the wires, and the opener works fine again. Tried this also on the second Liftmaster opener and same thing. I checked the connections, replaced the battery, (and drank a beer or two while I was wondering what the heck was going on) but it didn't make any difference.

I tested the opener switch with a voltmeter before I soldered the switch wires to the circuit board so I'm relatively certain I made the right connection. I am also looking at the pictures in this post, and it looks the same too. But, either I didn't solder the wires to the right circuit on the opener, or something else is wrong.

Any ideas?

 

Installed a "good to Go" opener. got it real cheap. Powered by hi beam. Hit headlight switch from lo -hi-lo-hi and garage door opens, only had to remove headlight for access. total job time, about 15 minutes. No extra holes. Absolutely invisible.Worked flawlessly for around 5 years now, so maybe it'll be OK.Trickiest part was mounting the receiver to the wall, replacing the stock unit, but even that was pretty easy.Oh, yeah-2008 FLHT.

 

Bringing back an old thread to see if any new ideas. Thinking of just another door opener and Velcro in a spot that's easy to reach. How do you guys hook up to the bike for power to avoid changing batteries? Pictures always help. Thank you.