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Garage Door Opener Mod. Done - with pics.

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  #21  
Old 03-24-2012, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by murph
Nice. I'm working on the same setup except I'm going to switch the power and solder a jumper across the switch to make it normally closed. I'm worried the constant power from the bike will burn up the opener. this way it only receives power to operate for a second and then it's off. Let us know how it works out.

Murph, If the switch is normally closed that means it has constant power until you open it, then the power is off. OPEN means the two sides of the switch are not in contact with each other so power cannot be transmitted. CLOSED means the two sides are touching so there is no break in the line, nothing to stop the power from being transmitted.
Open = Power off
Closed = Power on


Garage door openers are normally open switches, meaning power off.
 

Last edited by jjnoble; 03-24-2012 at 06:14 AM.
  #22  
Old 03-24-2012, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by murph
Nice. I'm working on the same setup except I'm going to switch the power and solder a jumper across the switch to make it normally closed. I'm worried the constant power from the bike will burn up the opener. this way it only receives power to operate for a second and then it's off. Let us know how it works out.
The OP's opener is still powered by the button battery. The odometer switch is simply replacing the openers stock push button.

The bikes 12+ volts is way too much for the opener anyway.

[edit] BTW, it's entirely possible that the stock switch simply switches main power to the circuits anyway.
 

Last edited by KylePutzier; 03-24-2012 at 11:10 AM.
  #23  
Old 03-25-2012, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jjnoble
Murph, If the switch is normally closed that means it has constant power until you open it, then the power is off. OPEN means the two sides of the switch are not in contact with each other so power cannot be transmitted. CLOSED means the two sides are touching so there is no break in the line, nothing to stop the power from being transmitted.
Open = Power off
Closed = Power on


Garage door openers are normally open switches, meaning power off.
Yes, I know... I meant I was closing the loop, basically bypassing the switch. I'm going to switch the 12vdc power... Sorry if I was confusing. I'm just moving the switch further up the line.
 
  #24  
Old 03-25-2012, 09:59 PM
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Nice install. It's funny though, sitting on my workbench is the exact LiftMaster remote and a momentary switch I got at RadioShack. My dilemma is that I have a Deuce so there's no place to mount the switch.
(not enough room under the seat, that's where the PCIII is)

I'm actually seriously considering drilling a hole in the dash panel, on the opposite side from the odometer button. At least it would look like it was meant to be there. I just have to see if I have enough room under the panel for the remote module.

Anyway, nice mod and great write up to help others.
 
  #25  
Old 03-26-2012, 05:49 AM
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Nice clean install. Only negative would be having to remove the faring any time the remote battery dies but they do last a long time.
 
  #26  
Old 03-26-2012, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ACLazer
I have the HD Part# 71764-07 Switch wired into my Garage Remote, I did the install a few weeks ago. I have it Velcro'd under the switch panel, and it's working great too. . . . .
I didn't have to pull the Fairing, just the Ignition Lock and switch panel. They both took around a 1/2 hour to install.

Just did the LED Truck Lite 7 install too
Nice, I like it! I'm not quite ready to deal with the faring as I'm waiting to do several mods once I pull it off. I would think it's out of the way, protected from rain, and fairly easy to get to when you need to replace the battery. I think I'll do this and then if need be put it inside the fairing when it comes off. Thanks, definatley different and a great idea to keep it clean and simple!
 
  #27  
Old 03-26-2012, 10:37 AM
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Nice job. I did basically the same but bought an odometer switch from Harley and put it in the dash just opposite the normal odometer switch. My opener was also 12 volts so I was able to hook it up to the bikes battery.

Nice work
 
  #28  
Old 03-26-2012, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by SoCalMike
Nice, I like it! I'm not quite ready to deal with the faring as I'm waiting to do several mods once I pull it off. I would think it's out of the way, protected from rain, and fairly easy to get to when you need to replace the battery. I think I'll do this and then if need be put it inside the fairing when it comes off. Thanks, definatley different and a great idea to keep it clean and simple!
Thanks, I did NOT pull the Faring when I did this install. I just pulled the Ignition Lock and switch panel under it. You don't have to pull the fairing
 
  #29  
Old 03-26-2012, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ACLazer
Thanks, I did NOT pull the Faring when I did this install. I just pulled the Ignition Lock and switch panel under it. You don't have to pull the fairing
I think he meant that's what he liked about your install, it doesn't require the removal of the faring.
 
  #30  
Old 03-26-2012, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by duecedog
Nice install. It's funny though, sitting on my workbench is the exact LiftMaster remote and a momentary switch I got at RadioShack. My dilemma is that I have a Deuce so there's no place to mount the switch.
(not enough room under the seat, that's where the PCIII is)

I'm actually seriously considering drilling a hole in the dash panel, on the opposite side from the odometer button. At least it would look like it was meant to be there. I just have to see if I have enough room under the panel for the remote module.

Anyway, nice mod and great write up to help others.
Thank you.

Where you are talking about mounting the switch is where I and other have mounted the switch.

It is a pain to make it line up visually.

Here is a single post from my mod on the Dyna.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/8055186-post102.html

Best of luck.
 


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