My clutch was slipping so I adjusted it Sunday morning, bike cold. I loosened the cable, loosened the lock nut, loosened the adjuster, turned in adjuster until ightly seated, backed it out one half turn, tightened lock nut, adjusted cable for 1/8 inch gap in ferrule. I have always done my own servicing so fairly certain I understand what to do. My clutch still slips. It releases about a half inch from grip and I like a little slop in the lever therefore the 1/8 inch gap in ferrule. My question is; when you turn the adjuster outward, is that increasing or decreasing clutch engagement? Thanks

 

The tighter the cable the more it disengages the clutch. You could start fresh and adjust it from the primary side and then adjust the cable. Manual states to adjust when the components are cold.

 

Have you done any performance upgrades? The stock easy clutch spring wont hold much more the 80-85 hp.

 

I haven't done any real performance upgrades, just SE intake, new V&H dresser duals and rhineharts with a dyno tune. It runs pretty strong but I think my dyno number was just 75 hp.

Sorry I wasn't very clear in original post. The adjustment I did Sunday was at the clutch pack in the primary and then I adjusted the cable afterwards. If I new whether turning the adjuster in the primary out increaed engagement or decreased engagement then I could try improving it there.

 

While it isn't necessary to use motor cycle specific oil in the engine since the clutch and engine don't share oil, it is critical to use a "non energy conserving" or motorcycle oil in the primary.

ADDED: Adjusting the adjuster nut without backing off the 1/2-3/4 turn would remove all the free play at the adjuster and increase the chances of slipping. Backing off the adjuster more than specified could cause an incomplete clutch disengagement.

 

I have always had some doubt whether or not I understood exactly where the place is that the adjuster within the clutch pack "seats" but for many years the point I chose worked so I guess I have it correct. I have always been conservative on "backing it off" thinking that the further it was turned out the less engagement I would have. Evidently I have been thinking about it incorrectly. If turning it out too far increases the chances of it not completely disengaging does that also mean it increases engagement? I turned it out one half turn, should I try increasing that to one turn?

 

I guess another question to ask is when is it slipping? If its 6th gear or 5th gear then I would recommend switching to a heavier spring.

 

It is fifth and sixth gear. I haven't "tested" the other gears.

 

More slack in the adjustment screw, while not necessarily providing more engagement, will prevent the possibility of slippage moreso than less slack. Regardless of the actual amount of freeplay, as long you have "some" freeplay you should be ok. I adjust mine with 1 full turn of freeplay to minimize any chance of losing freeplay over time, and a side benefit to one full turn is you can go longer between adjustments with less risk if you so desire.

If you are certain that you have some free play in the adjustment at the the clutch, and at the lever, both are equally important, and your clutch disengages adequately, then your adjustment is within an acceptable range.

If your clutch is adjusted appropriately and you still have slippage, then the problem is a mechanical issue with the clutch itself, i.e., damaged or worn discs, weak spring, etc. or improper fluid.

 

Then I believe what I need to do is re-adjust it and back off one full turn instead of half, from the point where it is fully, lightly seated. Adjust the cable for some slack, and if it slips then I have a mechanical problem. I use harley fluids. I haven't switched to synthetics yet but am going to at the 10k service interval.

It doesn't only slip when I shift. This morning I was doing close to 80 in 6th gear and opening up the throttle caused the rpm to increase much more than any speed increase I was getting. It is definitely slipping.