Thanks for the info guys. I may just change the fluid and leave it alone.

 

The problem with not doing the proper clutch adjustment is the fact that it wears so slow. We adjust our own feel for the clutch and constantly compensate for the wear. Then all of a sudden it is out to far and you fry the clutch plates, and warp other stuff. You are best off adjusting at each interval.

 

Even though you are happy with the clutch release/engagement I would at a minimum check to make sure you have some freeplay at the clutch hub while the cover is off. Freeplay at the lever is not a gaurantee that you have freeplay at the clutch. Lack of freeplay at the lever, at the clutch, or at both is an invitation for clutch slippage and premature wear.

It's easy to check. When you have the cover off lightly move the lever back and forth while observing for freeplay at the clutch. If you can see the freeplay then you're ok to leave everything as it is. If not, then you had better adjust it.

Just remember, as the clutch wears the freeplay diminishes. Therefore you need to have enough freeplay to make it to your next service interval before all of the freeplay is used up.

 

Can you please elaborate by what you are calling "freeplay at the clutch"?

 

Yes. The freeplay I'm referring to is the clearance in the clutch release pushrod. This is the clearance you are setting when you back off the adjuster 1/2 a turn, or 3/4 turn, or whatever number of turns you use. The adjuster is a 7/16-20 thread so each 1/2 turn will provide a .025 change in the clearance.

You cannot see the clutch release push rod when assembled but you can visually verify the freeplay, or absence thereof, by observing the movement between the release plate and the internal snap ring in the pressure plate as you move the lever. If there is no relative movement between the release plate and the snap ring, then an adjustment is necessary.

Does that answer your question?

 

So when I pull in the lever I should see the adjuster move in and out?
These plates are visible with just the primary cover off?

I gather from your description that when I tighten down the adjuster and then back off 1/2 turn or so, I am "adjusting the freeplay", then tighten with the lock nut. Not sure I follow you as to what I should see where when I pull in the clutch lever.

Appreciate your attempts to help me understand.

 

Wife says same thing when I used her turkey baster to remove too much oil from the primary. Before you adjusted, what was your turn loose? I had my 40K clutch all apart checking the bearing in it and had it all adjusted at 3/4 turn and 1/16 leave play. Now with 200 mile on it, it has 1/4 leaver play. Not sure what happened. Guess sovething seated in so guess I better recheck turns and not just do cable. Go by height on clutch with bike level, not oz.

 

My '07 calls for 38 oz. and I haven't heard of any new-generation engine (96/103/110) that has a different spec.

 

Yes.

Yes.

Yes.

And you are welcome.

 

I changed my primary fluid and adjusted my clutch yesterday afternoon and WOW, I am glad I did. Took less than 20 minutes. My primary fluid was pretty dark, I guess due to the first 1000 miles breaking in the clutch. I put in fresh fluid 38oz exactly (I measured the old stuff) and turned the adjuster screw back 3/4 of a turn. My clutch is better than I could wish for. Releases about an 1 1/2-2 inches off the bar and feels great! Thanks for the info!