Front end wobble
#11
I had the shop crank down on the neck bearing on my '11 Ultra last summer and it help at all. In fact, it seems to be worse now. One HD mechanic told me that there is at least some consensus that there was a bad bunch of neck bearings installed at the factory. Service writer at my main HD shop had agreed to replace my front tire on the 30th. He says that has fixed the wobble for a number of guys. We'll see I guess. If nothing else, I'll get a new tire out of it. It's my only bitch about this bike.
#13
Rear-steer...if that's what we're talking about. I don't think it can be eliminated. But it can be mitigated. On my bike (2004 RK), the batwing fairing makes it a little worse. When the rear (Dunlop) tire gets worn down to just shy of the wear-bars (and flattened out) that makes it worse. Buffeting winds (with the fairing on) like when passing a big rig at 75+, or extended turns at high speed (75+) make it worse.
My TouringLink makes it better. Not powering through big sweeping turns, or around big-rigs, makes it better, i.e., keeping the speed to about 70 or less. Replacing the rear Dunlop with a Michelin Commander II made it better.
From my reading here, and in similar sites, it occurs to some riders on every model year, from 1999 forward (and maybe on bikes before then, though I don't read much about them). I presume it's the design and components used to implement the engine mounting and swing-arm. For me, it's manageable, I know when it's liable to occur, and am usually ready for it. In my case, if I slow down I am always successful in eliminating it. I (or rather, my Indy who's very good) check/service all items per the recommended maintenance schedule, and replace tires before they're completely gone.
Alan
My TouringLink makes it better. Not powering through big sweeping turns, or around big-rigs, makes it better, i.e., keeping the speed to about 70 or less. Replacing the rear Dunlop with a Michelin Commander II made it better.
From my reading here, and in similar sites, it occurs to some riders on every model year, from 1999 forward (and maybe on bikes before then, though I don't read much about them). I presume it's the design and components used to implement the engine mounting and swing-arm. For me, it's manageable, I know when it's liable to occur, and am usually ready for it. In my case, if I slow down I am always successful in eliminating it. I (or rather, my Indy who's very good) check/service all items per the recommended maintenance schedule, and replace tires before they're completely gone.
Alan
Last edited by AlanStansbery; 07-15-2012 at 03:37 PM.
#14
Rear-steer...if that's what we're talking about. I don't think it can be eliminated. But it can be mitigated. On my bike (2004 RK), the batwing fairing makes it a little worse. When the rear (Dunlop) tire gets worn down to just shy of the wear-bars (and flattened out) that makes it worse. Buffeting winds (with the fairing on) like when passing a big rig at 75+, or extended turns at high speed (75+) make it worse.
My TouringLink makes it better. Not powering through big sweeping turns, or around big-rigs, makes it better, i.e., keeping the speed to about 70 or less. Replacing the rear Dunlop with a Michelin Commander II made it better.
From my reading here, and in similar sites, it occurs to some riders on every model year, from 1999 forward (and maybe on bikes before then, though I don't read much about them). I presume it's the design and components used to implement the engine mounting and swing-arm. For me, it's manageable, I know when it's liable to occur, and am usually ready for it. In my case, if I slow down I am always successful in eliminating it. I (or rather, my Indy who's very good) check/service all items per the recommended maintenance schedule, and replace tires before they're completely gone.
Alan
My TouringLink makes it better. Not powering through big sweeping turns, or around big-rigs, makes it better, i.e., keeping the speed to about 70 or less. Replacing the rear Dunlop with a Michelin Commander II made it better.
From my reading here, and in similar sites, it occurs to some riders on every model year, from 1999 forward (and maybe on bikes before then, though I don't read much about them). I presume it's the design and components used to implement the engine mounting and swing-arm. For me, it's manageable, I know when it's liable to occur, and am usually ready for it. In my case, if I slow down I am always successful in eliminating it. I (or rather, my Indy who's very good) check/service all items per the recommended maintenance schedule, and replace tires before they're completely gone.
Alan
#15
#17
They put the bike on a lift so the front wheel/handlebars have no weight on them, and then let the whole steering assembly swing back and forth. If the neck bearings are too loose, the whole thing will swing back and forth like a pendulum, more than just a couple of times. Too tight and it won't swing on it's own at all.
#18
Had a 407 on my front until it got replaced with a 408 on the Dunlop recall by Harley. As soon as the 408 was on the bike I noticed the frOnt end wobble at lower turning speeds. Seems worse when u lean a bit more. The 407 never did this. Also I will no long let's go of the bars. This 408 will shimmy the front wheel. The 407 never did this. My neck bearing are tight. Did the bar flop test and is at 2 flops. I'll probably tighten the neck abut. Replaced the rear with an American elite and will probably get rid of the 408
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
lightweight bob
General Harley Davidson Chat
10
11-13-2017 03:35 PM
arachman
Frame/Suspension/Front End/Brakes
8
09-04-2006 06:17 PM