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Valvoline VR1 sae 50 racing oil?

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Old 08-27-2012, 06:14 PM
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Default Valvoline VR1 sae 50 racing oil?

After reading all the oil threads I decided to try a straight 50 weight dino oil in my 2012 Streetglide. At the 1000 mile service I put in Redline 20w-50 synthetic it was fine a little more valve noise than I would like, but much quieter than my 03 Roadking using Amsoil 20w-50.

Last week at 5000 miles I decided to try a straight 50 weight dino oil as a lot of folks recommended. I put in the Valvoline VR1 (it was all I could get local). I can't wait for my next day off to get rid of it. My valve noise is twice as bad and the oil pressure drops just the same when hot.

Anybody else have this same experience with straight 50 weight dino or maybe it's just the Valvoline. I wanted to try Shell Rotella or Royal Purple but could not find them local.
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:46 PM
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"racing" products are generally made for stuff that is built to run, then be rebuilt every few runs.

synthetic has advantages akin to lightbulb vs tallow candle.

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Last edited by mkguitar; 08-27-2012 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 08-27-2012, 07:19 PM
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lucas makes a 50w vtwin oil. really made a big difference with valve train noise .
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Old 08-27-2012, 08:06 PM
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Why did you switch to straight 50 weight? Maybe try the VR1 20W50.

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Old 08-27-2012, 08:07 PM
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I got the exact same results with the VR1. Brad Penn 20/50 was quieter with about the same oil pressure. I know some people swear by it, but I expected a little better results from the Valvoline.

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Old 08-27-2012, 08:39 PM
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I am not a fan of straight weight oils.... I like a W oil, always have, always will...the only thing i use straight weight oil is My Pressure washer and my Mower. Because that is what it specifically calls for....I use 15W50 car syn oil in mine but to tell you the truth my top end noise in my bike has been gone since i installed adjustable pushrods...
2007 FLHTC Black Cherry Pearl. Transplanted 103HO PCV, Fullsac true dual kit because you can't run with 1/2 sac, 4" Jackpots, bunch of other crap to make it a ULTRA CLASSIC in the end, A little worn but with the new 103 she is good for another 90000 miles.
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Old 08-28-2012, 03:04 AM
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If you're curious take one hour to read the technical data sheets published for the various brands of oil:
- Multi grade mineral oils were blended to provide a stable oil film at operating temperature and reduce drag during cold starts.
- The average viscosity of a mineral multi grade is higher than what you get with a single grade (40 vs 10W40).
- Modern engines are designed to operate with an oil viscosity equivalent to SAE-40.
- Semi and fully synthetic lubricants provide even better flow when cold and a more stable viscosity when warm; in addition they can't absorb water.

So you want to have more than the magic number '40' to be on the safe side for the compensator, cams and piston rings. The gearbox is also designed to use the same oil weight but will remain free of debris for a longer period; here the synthetic oil plays a better role.

You should be able to correlate all your observations (valve train noise, pressure changes, etc...) with the viscosities provided by the oil makes you mention. Before I decided to use Motul, I searched "HARLEY APPROVED" oil for eventual warranty issues and I'm quite happy with what I use.
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Last edited by Expat1; 08-28-2012 at 03:07 AM.
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