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20W-60 Year round? (Please no brand arguments)

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  #1  
Old 09-22-2012, 02:23 PM
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Default 20W-60 Year round? (Please no brand arguments)

Not just another oil thread and please keep in touring section so people will actually see it) Not interested in brands, just weight.

At startup there is no difference between 20W-50 and 20W-60, so if I can use 20W-50 all year round then I can use 20W-60 all year round based on startup.

Second number is the grade it builds up to. I think that outside temps don't play a very big role in internal temps of the engine. Especially since air cooled engines run hotter than water cooled engines I think I should be able to run 20W-60 all year round and not only will it be better protected, but might have a better chance of getting ride of the sewing machine top end noise.

Thoughts?
 
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Old 09-22-2012, 02:42 PM
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I'm NOT a petroleum engineer, just another rider. If the outside air temperature is not too low for using 20 weight oil, then anybody's 20 weight is good. The higher number, the 50 or 60 indicates the viscosity when the oil is hot. The xW-50 will get no thinner than a 50 weight when hot, xW-60 will get no thinner than a 60 weight when hot.

I would have started using a 20W-60 years ago if I had known somebody made it. Just recently found some made for air cooled engines and installed it. Very happy so far. The top end noise in my engine is reduced a bit, I was hoping for more reduction but will take what I can get. There are reports that dino oil runs quieter than synthetic but I have no direct comparison to relate.
 
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Old 09-22-2012, 03:19 PM
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Wife and I rode during 12 hours last Sunday. Morning temperature was 60°F, climbed to 90° around midday and came down to 70° in the evening.
When I finally parked the bike the engine was BURNING HOT and sounded tinny, the clutch still worked perfectly and the gearbox was much noisier than usual. The next morning everything came back to normal.

My 3 fluids are not well adapted for such intense usage and I think this 'extreme' accumulation of heat would require a 15w60 for the engine + primary and 75w140 in the gearbox. I have the impression a broader viscosity range will play a better role during temperature buildup rather than during extreme weather conditions.

*15W60 seems better matched for wet plate clutches but the 20W60 provides a bit more reserve of alkalinity (TBN)
 

Last edited by Expat1; 09-23-2012 at 07:40 AM. Reason: * 15W60 vs 20W60 of the brand I use
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:28 AM
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Over the years I've heard many say that a broad viscosity range is bad. That the oil breaks down faster? I think with the high grade oils this ceases to be an issue though.

I'm looking for someone to say that this would be too thick when up to opporating temperature with an outside temp of...say...40
Not that I want to hear that, but it is my concern about making the change.
 
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by btsom
I'm NOT a petroleum engineer, just another rider. If the outside air temperature is not too low for using 20 weight oil, then anybody's 20 weight is good. The higher number, the 50 or 60 indicates the viscosity when the oil is hot. The xW-50 will get no thinner than a 50 weight when hot, xW-60 will get no thinner than a 60 weight when hot.

I would have started using a 20W-60 years ago if I had known somebody made it. Just recently found some made for air cooled engines and installed it. Very happy so far. The top end noise in my engine is reduced a bit, I was hoping for more reduction but will take what I can get. There are reports that dino oil runs quieter than synthetic but I have no direct comparison to relate.
I went with a 50w dino oil and aside from the front valve noise being reduced but not eliminated it did make a diff. As often as I rotate oil it makes no fiscal sense to use an obviously noisy component to synthetic...my. 02 cents.
 
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:45 AM
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Used 20W50 a couple changes and 15W50 in a couple, latest one this weekend. XX 15W50 readily available and works well for me.
 
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:47 AM
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I haven't noticed a sound difference, but as for the op it seems like you should just use the 60 year round to me. As always keep it changed, what did they say in the other thread every 15 - 20 miles?
 
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:15 AM
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you may see a slight reduction in fuel milage but otherwise it is fine..although it is not needed as the original oil gives plenty of lubrication..
 
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:37 AM
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I can't see it making that much of a difference. 20w50 year around in Michigan here.
 
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Old 09-25-2012, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Dew Me
I'm looking for someone to say that this would be too thick when up to opporating temperature with an outside temp of...say...40
Not that I want to hear that, but it is my concern about making the change.
I don't think a short answer can be sufficient. At 40° the battery has already lost energy, the engine's compression is far from it's maximum, oil has already drained from the cylinders into the sump and will take a few seconds to lubricate the engine after it has started. You don't count the friction between the clutch plates because you start in Neutral gear. Where in the engine do you expect excessive oil viscosity to be a problem when you use 20W60? Sticky piston rings? We only have two pistons and a long stroke so the 'imprint' of the sticky rings onto the cylinder walls is very small compared to the total travel/stroke.
In my younger days we had grade 30 for winter and the famous HD40 for the rest of the year and that was it.
 


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