is you bike white or silver, it looks white. i tried to get a white one when i bought mine ,but could'nt. just wanted to say sharp bike.

 

Thanks, it's white hot denim and it now has a Hayden chain tensioner. I just returned from a 45 minute ride and I'm not sure I made the right decision installing the Hayden. When I removed the primary cover I noticed the oem tensioner seemed to be doing an excellent job with having the proper tension on the chain. I could with out much effort move the top part of the chain up and down a little more then a half inch. If you look at the picture you will see that the ramp has just begun moving and seems to be functioning as intended. I decided to go forward with the Hayden and without any shims all I get is 1/4" between the bottom of the shoe and the base of the tensioner. It caused the chain to be much tighter with no movement on the top portion of the chain. After I buttoned it all up and started it and I hear allot more sound coming from the primary. It seems like I can find neutral a little easier and shifting is about the same. I'm hoping that the chain will seat itself before it takes out a bearing. It really is significantly tighter then it was. If you look at the pics maybe you can see what I think I'm seeing. The stock tensioner allowed the chain to sag ever so slightly as opposed to the Hayden which makes the chain appear very taunt. Oh and no leaks with the original gasket.

 

Hmmm, bob i see what you mean.

Send them a email and see what they say but, I remember the instructions that came with the "old" style stated that you may hear a louder primary until the springs break in, in which i wouldn't be surprised will happen with yours..Assuming, it shouldn't take to long i would think..

 

It seems you have almost 50 lbs on your chain. You can probably run without the inner spring and you will still get approximately 20 lbs. Were you able to fully compress the springs to have the shoe touch the base? I could not and this is why I made the well slightly deeper.

 

I could not fully compress the springs to compress it enough to have them touch and I just about stood on it. I never thought about using just the outer spring and I'm not equiped to make the inside of the shoe deeper without destoying it. The way it is now there is no give to the chain, Does Hayden reccomend removing the inner spring to soften the spring tension a bit?

 

I emailed Hayden and asked if it's o.k to use just the large spring or if they have softer springs. When I hear from them I will post it

 

this is what i was worried about all along the chain being to tight it will be intertesting to see what hayden has to say.

 

My letter to Hayden: Greetings, I just installed your M6 in my 2011 Street Glide, I received in a couple of days ago from Phat Performance. It is the latest version (not welded). My concern is that I'm only getting just shy of a 1/4" from the bottom of the shoe to the bracket. Your directions state I should have 3/8". Since I installed the Hayden my chain is extremely tight and I'm unable to get any up and down movement at the top portion of the chain. With the OEM tensioner I had between 1/2" and 3/4" up and down travel. My bike only has a little less then 6000 miles on it and was without any issues. I belong to HD Forums and the thread I've been discussing this tight issue has suggested that I remove the smaller inner spring to put a little less tension on it. After I did the install I noted more noise coming from the primary and read that the noise should lesson in time but I'm concerned that because it's so tight and I'm not exaggerating that I may destroy a bearing before it loosens up a bit. I attached a before and after pictures for your review. Do you suggest removing the inner spring to lesson the tension a bit or are there softer springs available? I'm very concerned, please advise, thanks Bob

And Hayden's reply:
Hi Robert,
Keep in mind the M6 has constant pressure on the chain. We don't care about chain travel or chain slack measurements. It's the spring compression that's important. You should be installed without either of the shims because of so few miles on the chain. You should however be using both springs at the same time. We have never told anyone to only install one springs. Give the chain a couple hundred miles to cut a little bit into our nylon shoe to seat the rollers. Once that happens your measurement will gain a little and you'll also see the whirling sound go away. That sound is merely the chain gliding over the nylon shoe.



Thanks,
Hayden's M6 -Primary Chain Tensioner
http://www.haydensm6.com

 

You guys crack me up sometimes, a company does a lot of R & D when they develop a product and granted, sometimes it has to be tweaked a little after being put to the test in the real world. But to modify the product or use more or less of it's components because "maybe" it will make it perform better does not make sense.

I'm the first to admit I can't leave stock alone but when it comes to a product that if used improperly and fails which could cost big $$$$$$$ to repair the damage in the primary area, I would be cautious in modifying it.

That is just my opinion but it's your bike and money, so do what you see fit.

Also OP, without using any of the shims I don't know how you could end up with only 1/4" between the bottom of the shoe and the top of the base plate. Either use a caliper to measure at the proper location, remove any shims or call Hayden ASAP.

 

well all you can do is out some miles on it and check it again,you can always go back to the stock tensioner if it still has it to tight. i'm like you though that real tight chain scare's me.