Ok, so long story short...I posted a thread about having downshifting issues and was pointed in the direction that the spring plate was probably coming apart.

Ordered a replacement clutch kit that eliminated the spring plate and came with a new diaphram spring. I pulled out my book, and ripped into my bike...everything went fine during the install but heres my problem.

I adjusted the adjusting screw(the one behind the derby cover) as instructed. I backed it out one turn from being lightely seated and tightened it. Took the freeplay out of my clutch cable...and I couldnt pull the clutch in at all. So I loosened the cable back up, and readjusted the screw behind the derby cover. When I went to take the slack out of the cable, I ran out of adjustment.

I thought maybe I put the diaphram spring in backwards, so I took it out and flipped it.NOPE. Tried putting the original diaphram spring in.NOPE.

The clutch cable is 1 month old, so I know its not stretched out. But what would cause it to 1). run out of adjustment when it was fine before the clutch install and 2). why couldnt I pull the clutch in the first time? if you pull on the cable it is very very hard and the pressure plate doesnt move much at all like something is blocking it from being pushed all the way out.

HELP!

 

Did you pull all the rings out of the hub?

If so, did you put the small steel ring in first (closest to the tranny)? If the small steel ring doesn't go in first, then alternating friction, steel, friction, etc, that will give those exact symptoms.


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Do you mean the small steel plate that didnt have the teeth on it like the friction plates and other steel plates?

I never took that plate out. I took all of the friction plates and steel plates that were between them. Installed friction plate first, and alternated, and finished with friction plate like the book says to.

 

Yes, all the steel rings should be smooth outside and the friction rings have teeth on the outside. Two of the steel rings are smaller than the rest with no teeth, they go in first (flat one, then spring one), then the others alternating.

If it all went in that way, only other thing could be the ***** aren't seated in the right position in the ramps in the trap door.

With the cable colapsed for hub adjustment and hub loose for adjustment, give the lever a couple in and outs, then leave it all the way out while adjusting at the hub. Then take up the slack as per the book.

Worth a shot. I'd also take a look in the hub again to make sure the small steel ring made it all the way onto the lip inside and is seated against the hub.


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ill pull the friction plates and steel plates back out and take a look to see if the smaller steel plate is on the lip, and then pull the trap door and make sure everything is good with the ball and ramp tomorrow. hopefully it will shed some light on whats going on so i can get it finished. I'm supposed to be making a 6hr ride down to south carolina on saturday so I really gotta figure it out

 

you don't have to open the trap door to seat the ball and ramp mechanism- see above instructions

Mike

 

Well the issue with doing it by the book or above instructions is that even with a bunch of slack in the clutch cable, it's still hard as a rock to pull...like something is blocking it.

 

Sorry, it was late and I'd had a couple....no excuse.

The small friction ring (it is noticeably smaller) has to be the first friction ring in after the small steel ring (aka damper spring) and spring seat or that will cause the same symptoms.

Always had better results when putting slack in the cable to put "all" the slack in it, not just the "large amount". ie, run the cable adjuster all the way to the stop.

Like mkguitar said, should be no need to go into the trapdoor.

Unless.....

You said, "1 month old" cable, did you change that at the same time as the clutch? If so, you may have to go in the trapdoor to check that the ramp went back together right. If not and new cable worked with old clutch (and hasn't been apart) shouldn't be a problem in there.



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Just curious did you get a SE replacement clutch? If so the last time I put one in it said to eliminate the first ring that goes in (the narrow one) because of the thicker discs. I know its a bear sometimes to get the ramp ***** to stay in place when changing the cable, maybe one fell out or dislodged.

 

The cable was changed a month ago with the old clutch still in, so the ***** and ramp should be okay. It's not the SE replacement but it is very similar to it. The kit that I got eliminates the spring plate and adds an extra plate just like the SE clutch kit does...I'll look back over the paperwork but I don't remember it sayin to leave the first ring out. The only real instructions I recall were to not use synthetic fluid with that kit