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2000 FLHPI Cam plate/tensioner and cam upgrade

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  #1  
Old 12-21-2012, 09:31 PM
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Default 2000 FLHPI Cam plate/tensioner and cam upgrade

I'm looking to buying some Andrews 21 series cams and converting over to the newer style camplate and pump. There are a few ways to do this.


1) Buy the screamng eagle hydraulic tensioner roller/ball bearing camplate/oil pump for 99-06 engines and run the old silent drive chains. About $600.00 in parts with the extra parts you have to buy. Still uses the silent chains that wear the pads faster than the roller chains, according to what I'm reading

2) Buy the stock 06 hydraulic plain bearing camplate and pump (which is an upgrade from the 99-06 pump) plus related parts and run roller chains with Andrews "N" series cams. About $540.00 for parts plus the cams

3) Buy the 07 and later screaming eagle bronze bushed camplate and pump plus related parts and run Andrews "N" cams. About $700.00 plus cams

I'm not sure the 99-06 SE camplate is that good a value if you're still running the silent chains. If you're buying new cams seems the Andrews setup with the stock 06 camplate might be the best and most economical way to go.
 
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:57 PM
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if you do the work yourself the SE plate isn't bad, and one thing I never hear anyone do anymore is while you have the chains off polish them with a wire wheel then a buffing wheel , then clean them real good, it will make them better , and almost as good as a roller chain.
 
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Old 12-22-2012, 02:21 AM
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I recently installed the Andrews TW21 cams in my 02 Road King Classic along with the Scream Eagle Cam Plate / Oil Pump and Adjustable pushrods. The best deal I found on the cams was from Amazon. The cams shipped with the front and rear bearings.

Another option though expensive http://www.zippersperformance.com/ne...ensioners.html
 
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Old 12-22-2012, 08:47 AM
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Since the inner cam drive isn't effected by run-out you could run gears there if they made a cam to take inner gears and sprockets for chains on the outside. Could be an option for cranks with more than .003 runout and would eliminate having to pull the cam plate to check the inner hydraulic tensioner.
 
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Old 12-22-2012, 09:48 AM
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Gears are gears, chain drive is chain drive. Being a 2000 you have a great percentage that your runout could be within spec.
 
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Old 12-22-2012, 11:55 AM
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Quick line...to each there own?

Here's a link I've been thinking about? Mainly, I get everything but would consider going to gear drive with this?

http://www.feulingparts.com/completecamchest.php

Oh...for a 2002 E.G. FLHTPI
 

Last edited by Biker John; 12-22-2012 at 11:56 AM. Reason: Added bike info
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Old 12-22-2012, 02:24 PM
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My total runout is .0025. I could go gears but it's close. I was thinking you would have the margin of error with the outer chain and later motors would benefit from not having to pull the cam plate to check the rear hydraulic tensioner.
 
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Old 12-22-2012, 02:37 PM
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It's easy to sink as much money on one of these bikes as it is a boat.
 
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Old 12-22-2012, 04:10 PM
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If you are just now changing tensioners on a 13 year old 2000 bike, I say save your money and replace the tensioners only. HD or these:

http://www.harleydavidsontensioner.com/
 
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Old 12-22-2012, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by skypilot_one
Since the inner cam drive isn't effected by run-out you could run gears there if they made a cam to take inner gears and sprockets for chains on the outside. Could be an option for cranks with more than .003 runout and would eliminate having to pull the cam plate to check the inner hydraulic tensioner.
Actually, gear drives rotate the cams backwards, that's why gears work with an outer gear set, don't see how that works with outer chains/sprockets. I almost agree with Kuma but would upgrade to the SE Hybrid set up (PN 25284-11). Your inner "silent" chain is already polished from previous miles and will be fine with the new hydraulic tensioner.
 


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