Ive read a bunch of post of bikes having my issues and everyon of them has to do with the older bikes and sumping. Ive had no issues with my bike since the 106, maybe 8 k miles. Installed new exhaust and PV, no issues for about 500 miles. Then out riding on a nice cool day just taking it easy I noticed the temps starting to rise. And from there it went down hill, almost didn't make it back home. Now the bike doesn't rev past 3000, it gets hot very fast and the engine has no power?

Ive tried going back to the PCV with my old map, same issues.
Plugs look good but I put new ones on anyways, same issues.
Installed new o2 sensors, exhaust gaskets and sealer the exhaust with copper high temp, same issues.

The bike idles great, no back firing, engine sounds quiet no rattling like broken parts.
Both cylinders get hot, and I checked to make sur both plugs were firing.
Now I did notice that on my Harley oil cooler that one hose doesnt get hot and the other is on fire hot, maybe a clogged or bad cooler? Its been on there for a couple years with no issues.
The intake is not spitting any oil like I read most sumping issues have.
Ive checked the oil and its there and doesn't smell burnt.
Ive also tried running the stock 96 with stage one download tune just for the hell of it.

Other than that any other trouble shooting I can try before I start to disassemble the bike?
Were to start, oil pump? I don't want to pay $300 or more for a new oil pump if thats not the issue.

Thoughts, questions, help would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

As you said, the oil cooler lines has one that is not as warm as the other, maybe a blockage of sorts there?

 

I have changed the oil and filter not to long ago, I use the K&N type becaue thats what my indy sells and the dealer is a two drive.

My question on that is if the cooler is plugged some how wouldnt the oil just by-pass the cooler and keep flowing?
It gets hot fast, almost like there is no flow but it does get one of the cooler tubes hot.
I didn't check to see if the oil filter was getting hot, I guess it could be a defective filter?
Easy enough check and a new filter will not break the bank. I'll try that to see if it helps.

 

Well, new filter and new Amsoil 20-50 syn in and no change. Hated changing the old Amsoil after 1000 miles but had to make sure.

At idle the temp goes from 50-60 to 200+ pretty quick and its about 55-60 deg outside.

When I try to rev the engine it will bogg down and flutter at about 3000 rpm and less, will not rev any higher. When idleing its nice and smooth, no hesitation, smoke, or strange sounds.
The new oil filter does get hot and one of the lines gets hot but not the other, not sure if the bike has to be moving to get it to flow but after the bike gets up to 200 deg I shut it down. I use the PV to measure the temps, not sure how accuate that is but the bike is definatley hotter than it should be.

What else would cause this? Piston rings, pushrods, lifters, oil pump, valves???
Any other suggestions on what it might be so I can get an idea were to start disassembling?
Thanks

 

Maybe ... disconnect your PC and reconnect the original ECM, fire it up & see if anything changes. Yes it will be very lean but if you can rev it past 3000, then at least you can look at the PC vs tearing it down.

Also, there is a screw in the bottom of the engine case, normally not removed but if you do it will drain the sump oil out. The normal sump oil is about 6 oz so anything past that would give you a new clue as to whats happening. Now... Ive never removed my sump screw but have read that many others have. So proceed at your own risk..! Im only making suggestions. Maybe someone will chime in with real experience.

 

I only used the PCV to make sure the issue wasn't the PV, the PV is back on so its not the ecu connector. I also removed the plug you mention and not much came out so I guess I can rule out the sumping.

Not sure what else to try, I looked to see if I might have blown a head gasket but no oil or air leaks from either head.
The new plugs have a nice tan soot on them not black out white.

Would any of the sensors cause these issues? The temps get over 250 easy, not sure how hot it to hot.

I took it for a short ride after it had cooled to give the new oil a try.

The bike can get up to speed by shifting but at times it will hesitate and kind of back fire out of the intake if that raises any redlights. After it heats up to much it wants to stall and looses more power. Does any of this help any?

 

Oil flow!

 

Have you checked for DTCs? That's where I'd be starting.

As for the temperature issues. With the PV you are reading cylinder head temperature and it will climb fairly rapidly. Typically from about 70 degrees to approx 290 degrees in about 12-13 minutes at idle with no airflow.

The cylinder head temp you are reading has nothing to do with oil temp. Your observation of the oil cooler lines not being the same temperature is to be expected until the thermostat closes to direct the oil through the cooler, and that doesn't happen until the oil temp reaches about 200 degrees. If you are shutting the bike off when the cylinder head temp reaches 200 degrees you are not getting the oil warm enough to close the thermostat and therefore you have limited or no flow through the cooler.

I don't have any actual measurements to validate this, but from a cold start I'd estimate that it takes at least 30 minutes for the oil to reach 200 degrees. The cylinder head temperature on the other hand will get to 200 degrees in about 5 or 6 minutes, and that I can validate. You have to understand that engine temperature and oil temperature are not the same and there is no blanket correlation between the two.

I think you're looking down the wrong path in trying to correlate your performance issue with an oil system problem. Again, check for DTCs. That should have been your first step.

 

This all makes sence.

So now I'm back to square one with my research.
The only DTC i was getting were for the o2 senors but replaced both and they were old codes from were I had been using the pcv w/at for the past two years.

So the oil and filter are new and good.
The exhaust gaskets are new and good.
The spark plugs are new, getting spark and seem to be good.
All the fuses have been pulled tested and if I was unsure then replaced.
Cruise still works.
No visible oil or air leaks.

Any votes for this being bad gas in the tank? I was using the same tank for the whole ride and got to about half tank when the issues started happening.

 

Just because the oil fiter is new does mean that it is good.I saw one instance where check valve in the filter failed and filter was brand new.The bike had zero oil pressure changed the filter out problem solved.Sounds to me like it's sumping.Pull the plug on the bottom of your crankcase like FastAire said.You could have had an O ring in your pump tear or blow out.Hope this helps