Loose Compensator Nut
#1
#5
For high frictional conditions the magnitude of the torsional stress can be such that when combined with the direct stress, an equivalent stress over yield can result, leading to failure. A more consistent approach is to determine the magnitude of the direct stress which, when combined with the torsional, will give an equivalent stress of some proportion of yield......
Yeah, try that.
Actually I would leave good enough alone, not that big a deal, the loc-tite will reseal.
Yeah, try that.
Actually I would leave good enough alone, not that big a deal, the loc-tite will reseal.
Last edited by drukanfu; 03-25-2013 at 04:34 AM.
#6
the manual for my '09 t/g says you check the first time at 20k miles but not at 25k. mech. found mine worn but serviceable.(took nut off & re-applied blur locktite & torque to specs.and guys usually upgrade to the S&S one which i hear has slightly better libricarion
than the OEM version.
looks like you found it just in time; when it starts banging (the first time you hear it) i,m told shut bike off, or get it home & ck it immediately.
if you let it bang then you will have to replace it.
the reason i'd like to know your miles is the mech should have ck'd it at 25k & re-locktited the nut. if its loosening up againg lets say at 32k.
then you have a problem in the near future, because it seems the nut will loosen-up in a few k miles.
than the OEM version.
looks like you found it just in time; when it starts banging (the first time you hear it) i,m told shut bike off, or get it home & ck it immediately.
if you let it bang then you will have to replace it.
the reason i'd like to know your miles is the mech should have ck'd it at 25k & re-locktited the nut. if its loosening up againg lets say at 32k.
then you have a problem in the near future, because it seems the nut will loosen-up in a few k miles.
Last edited by brownfoxx1; 03-25-2013 at 04:49 AM.
#7
If I am not mistaken, the compensator nut has the highest torque value of any fastener on the motorcycle. At 140 lbs, there is a lot of nesting stress applied to the threads. If you remove that bolt, I would never re-use it. These bolts are not expensive. Got to the HD shop and get a new one and install it per the manual....First to 100 ft lbs, back off one full turn, then all the way to 140 ft lbs. I always add a little red locktite regardless of that yellow **** they put on the factory bolts.
About your question of tightening it and moving on...well...you broke the locktite set so the loctite will never reattach as well as it does initially. If it was me, I would back out the old bolt, get the new one, get a damn good torque wrench...not some cheap piece of **** from China...and re-install it the correct way. And use the correct locking bar when locking down the sprockets....not some soft *** piece of wood that will slip.
About your question of tightening it and moving on...well...you broke the locktite set so the loctite will never reattach as well as it does initially. If it was me, I would back out the old bolt, get the new one, get a damn good torque wrench...not some cheap piece of **** from China...and re-install it the correct way. And use the correct locking bar when locking down the sprockets....not some soft *** piece of wood that will slip.
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#8
not quite true there....its done all the time when a retorque is required on the "jesus" nut that holds the head/blades on a helicopter but no Loctite is applied so its a bit different
Last edited by alame; 03-25-2013 at 08:06 AM. Reason: more info
#9
the manual for my '09 t/g says you check the first time at 20k miles but not at 25k. mech. found mine worn but serviceable.(took nut off & re-applied blur locktite & torque to specs.and guys usually upgrade to the S&S one which i hear has slightly better libricarion
than the OEM version.
looks like you found it just in time; when it starts banging (the first time you hear it) i,m told shut bike off, or get it home & ck it immediately.
if you let it bang then you will have to replace it.
the reason i'd like to know your miles is the mech should have ck'd it at 25k & re-locktited the nut. if its loosening up againg lets say at 32k.
then you have a problem in the near future, because it seems the nut will loosen-up in a few k miles.
than the OEM version.
looks like you found it just in time; when it starts banging (the first time you hear it) i,m told shut bike off, or get it home & ck it immediately.
if you let it bang then you will have to replace it.
the reason i'd like to know your miles is the mech should have ck'd it at 25k & re-locktited the nut. if its loosening up againg lets say at 32k.
then you have a problem in the near future, because it seems the nut will loosen-up in a few k miles.
#10
RED loctite.. Make sure you clean the threads of all the old loctite and torque it down.. Sucks when they loosen up, mine did about a year ago, stator and rotor got banged up and damaged the threads on the crank. I sat there for about an hour with a thread file to straighten and then ran a thread chaser over it.. Long process but it worked...