This is going to be a rather long post; I feel I need to give some back story for my tribulations and hopefully explain – as best I can – what the history is and to what lengths I’ve gone to resolve them.

I bought a 2011 Ultra Limited in April of 2011 – it came stock with the 103” motor. I rode it off the floor and put a little over 1k miles on it while waiting for parts to arrive. On the recommendation of one of the mechanics the Screamin’ Eagle Pro Stage III Kit – 103 Performance Upgrade – was installed (part # 27544-10a), which as of the 2013 catalog includes the following parts (I don’t know if this is the same as the 2011 catalog):

• High-compression 10.5:1 pistons
• SE 259E cams
• Perfect Fit Pushrods
• High-performance diaphragm clutch spring
• High lift valve springs & gaskets
• SE Pro EFI Super Tuner

Free Flowing AC and Exhaust was (and still is) handled by the following parts:

• Free flowing Air Cleaner (mechanic hand-picked components for best “claimed” results)
• V&H Dresser Duals Head pipes
• V&H High-Output Slip-on Mufflers

When the bike was complete, it was returned to me with a basic map for the above listed mods and I was informed it would run poorly until a fresh break-in was completed and it was put on the dyno for tuning. I promptly took it out and put more miles on the bike and again returned it to the dealer, this time for tuning (Tuning #1). After the requisite time for tuning was complete I had the bike back. It ran strong, pulled great and was basically exactly what I wanted; except it was always acting like a petulant child… Hunting for idle, stalling, stumbling and so on… I went back to my dealer and explained the situation, back on the dyno it went for another tuning (Tuning #2). It was better but still very hard to manage for anything other than cruising. I went back, yet again, for the fourth time; this time it was determined that the kit was not going to work as advertised. The mechanic advised stepping it back a couple notches, to which, I adamantly refused. I had him put together what he felt would fix the issues without going backward; he came up with the following list (Basically the SE Stage IV kit):

• SE Pro CNC Ported Factory Cylinder Heads with Valve Upgrades
• SE Quick-install Pushrods
• SE Pro High-Flow 58mm EFI Throttle Body
• SE Pro High-Flow Fuel Injectors
• SE Plugs
• Thin head gaskets (theoretically increasing compression to 10.75:1 or similar)

(I could’ve swore we talked about doing a different cam but for the life of me I can’t find where I was charged for one… At this time I’m assuming the 259E cams are the ones installed and were used with the first installation two years ago – I just don’t know).

The above parts were installed, again with a base tune and instructions to perform 500 mile break-in procedure – The third break-in done on this machine. I followed this procedure and the bike was back at the dealership for the sixth time (Tuning #3)… Now the tune that came out of this was very strong, better than the previous and ran very well. The one think I noticed right away was that my mileage was down to around 35 mpg on the freeway. I chalked it up to just having a big power build and that was the price I was going to pay.

The bike seemed perfectly happy for a few thousand miles and I took off for my yearly cross-country trip. When the ambient temperature climbed into the 90’s and higher, the bike began to detonate (ping) like crazy and I’m at least 1000 miles from home so no turning back; it was under warranty after all… I stop and put some octane boost in and try adjusting my speed down to help – mind you I’ve been running premium this entire time.

I end up putting about 7500 miles on the bike on this trip, constantly trying to find that perfect point where the bike is happiest. When I return home, I go back to the dealer, explain the situation, and back on the dyno it goes (Tuning #4). They keep the bike for a few days, trying to sort the issue. Their efforts result in no pinging except on quick throttle changes; it no longer pings at cruising speeds.

I ride it with this tune for about 18 months or so. It stumbles occasionally and stalls, has fits of hard starting where it’ll blow back through the throttle body but all in all not bad and all kinds of fun to ride.

Now, just last week, the wife and I are out on the bike and it starts stumbling – nearly constantly – when the RPM’s drop, such as when stopping. Most of the time it will stall out when this happens unless I’m fast enough and blip the throttle to stop it. This is becoming frustrating again…

The bike is now out of warranty and I don’t know what I should do. Should I throw more money at tuning? If so, where do I take it? I’m in the Seattle area and the mechanic that did all my tuning is apparently one of the best locally. Several other dealers tell me they send their problem tunes to him for help. He’s a great guy and he’s done a ton of work on my bike to get it to this point… All of this leads me to believe that this build is no good, at least for me and the way I like/want to ride.

I’m tempted to tear it down and start over or simply buy a different motor to stick in it but I’m reluctant to spend that kind of money… I think a builder would be a good option but that’s bigger bucks, though I should be able to get exactly what I want.

I don’t want an unruly monster built drag motor – I feel like I basically have just that… I just want a good, strong, reliable motor that produces upwards of 100 ft. lb. torque starting very low in the RPM range and stays pretty flat all the way through. I see sheets all the time that prove this can be done as well as happy members here advertising they have the power I’m looking for with the reliability I need.

Anyone have any suggestions where I should go from here, who I could contact to get advice or anything really. I plan on another cross-country run starting in late June, so I’ve really got to get this sorted by then or just deal with it until I’m back…

 

I had a surging problem that was caused by a wire(s) to the O2 sensor(s), I also had codes indicating that there was a problem with the O2 sensor. It's all I got, wish I could be more helpful.

 

I hate to hear of your troubles. I don't want to cry over spilled milk but I will say it anyways...you should've avoided that dealer after the FIRST mishap and the FIRST lie that it is gonna run rough until the breakin is done. They could've broke the bike in on the damn dyno. ANYWAYS, if you wanna eliminate all headaches, I would start over from scratch and get yourself a kit from fuel moto or dragos or one of those vendors and just sell all the stuff you have to recoup some of your money. OR you can try going to another dealer and having them sort it all out because it sounds to me that its more like a tuning issue (it may also be a timing issue as well but that may be part of the bad tune). Or a third option would be to lose the tuner from Harley and get you something like a power commander with auto-tune or a powervision with auto tune. If it were mechanical, I believe the bike would've blown up by now. Good luck with whatever you decide and I hope you get the problem fixed.

 

You're absolutely right; hindsight is 20/20... Shoulda, Coulda, Woulda, had I known what I know now.

I'm seriously considering starting over, I'll look into those kits you recommended.

Thanks for your input.

 

Now that im thinking more about it, I would opt for getting rid of the tuner that you have and get a power commander unit from fuel moto and have them give you a map for what you have. if it doesn't fix the problem, at least you wouldn't have lost out on the unit because it can still be used again if you decide to go with a complete rebuild. Im almost certain that its a tuning issue or something affecting your tune and not anything mechanical. if it were mechanical, you definitely wouldn't have made those long trips like you did before. that's also the reason why I avoid the Harley tuners like the plague. not because its a bad unit, but its because its a crapshoot when having someone tune it on the dyno and I have heard of way too many stories from a few local Harley shop techs about how they recommend this and that. one even told me that he likes to set the afr to 15:1 ratio!! If that aint redneck engineering then I don't know what is. call fuel moto and see what they can do for you and let us know how that works.

 

That sux....your problems are why I don't do engine upgrades. Except for exhaust, intake and tuning...my engines are stock. When i wanted more power I bought a second bike (07 SE RK with a 110"). It has plenty power for me.

 

I feel it's a tuning issue as well. It runs quite strong right now as long as I don't have to stop... So usable on the freeway and such but not around town, that doesn't work for me.

15:1... Holy Hell, that's pure insanity!

I appreciate that you bought a second bike to fix your need for more power but I don't care for the 110" or the price tag that comes with the bike it's in. I wanted more power so I modified my engine. If I had it to do over, I would still modify my engine, though I'd take a different route to get there.

 

Who dyno'ed the bike?

 

Sure does seem like the dealer should man up on this one. Is the bike throwing codes ?
and are they clearing them out and not telling you?

 

If it where a mechanical issue, you'd had trouble from the start. I agree with Eshaw301. Get a PC and get one of the forums good tuners. Even if you have to travel, I might be worth it..