I'm wondering if anyone has a PCV map that I can start with for a '13 103 with the Andrews 57H cam, hi-flow intake, no cat, and Bassani 3.5" slip-ons? I am using auto-tune and have a starter map that Dynojet gave me, but it feels boggy when I get on it. So far there are some areas where auto-tune took out -20 fuel (maximum setting) and unfortunately when I ran a second run the cable between the PCV and auto-tune module came unplugged. I've attached the map that I got from Dynojet. You can see that the fuel settings are all over the place.

Thanks!

 

Well I see that you have no timing adjustments at all. I would add 3-5 deg advance.
I threw in some timing into your map. give it a try.

What are you setting up the auto tune tables like? You need to keep the auto tune plugged in and working until you have the bike running correctly. After that then you want to disconnect it and remove the sensors until you make more engine mods.

I have most of the values at 13.2 except the cruze range 2-20% throttle and 2500-3250 rpms @ 14.5 and 100% throttle after 3750 rpms 12.8

You want to set your throttle positionings at these numbers min voltage .683 ........max voltage 4.527 .....I found these voltage values somewhere on here at HD Forums in one of Jamie's posts and have had mine set to them since.

I included 1 of my maps that I am working on copy and paste the target air fuel ratios values into yours and this should get you going.

Pay no attention to my huge -numbers in the fuel I have monster injectors for when I am on the NO2 bottle

You can piece different maps together. When I was starting out I couldn't find a complete map w/timing tables. so I took one that had timing tables and added them to another map and then adjusted timing from there

 

I modded it all for you give it a try. Timings in it and the air fuel ratios are loaded in the target air fuel ratio folders.
just set your throttle positionings to what I said above.
Don't forget you have to accept the trim values. The amount will get smaller and smaller that autotune has to adjust over time.

When riding try to hit all the positions on the map like they do on a dyno so autotune gets good numbers, hold it at the rpm range for some time 3250-3500-3750 and so on do it in different gears so the throttle positioning changes at the selected rpm range.

You won't see too much for adjustments in the upper right corner or the lower left. Most of the adjustments made are from the left upper to right lower almost as if you drew a line and then 4-5 blocks away from that line on either side of it you will see changes. You will never hit 100% throttle and 1500 rpms just like you won't hit 0% throttle and 6250 rpms.

 

Thanks for the input. Below is the Target AFR table that I've used for auto tune. I'm familiar with the auto-tune process, but just had an issue with a cable coming unplugged on my last run, which sucked because I was making sure to get some low-rpm data since I'm positive my map needs it. I appreciate the advice on the timing as well. I figured a little bit of timing would help and I can always back it down if I hear detonation.

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
0 0 13.2 13.2 13.2 13.2 13.2 13.2 13 13
0 0 13.2 13.2 13.2 13.2 13.2 13.2 13 13
0 0 13.2 13.2 13.2 13.2 13.2 13.2 13 13
0 0 13.2 13.2 13.2 13.2 13.2 13.2 13 13
0 13.2 13.5 13.5 13.5 13.5 13.2 13.2 13 13
0 13.2 13.7 13.7 13.7 13.7 13.2 13.2 13 13
0 13.2 13.7 13.7 13.7 13.7 13.2 13.2 13 13
0 13.2 13.7 13.7 13.7 13.7 13.2 13.2 13 13
0 13.2 13.7 13.7 13.7 13.7 13.2 13.2 13 13
0 13.2 13.7 13.7 13.7 13.7 13.2 13.2 13 13
0 13.2 13.5 13.5 13.5 13.5 13.2 13.2 13 13
0 13.2 13.2 13.2 13.2 13.2 13 13 13 13
0 13.2 13.2 13.2 13 13 13 13 13 13
0 13.2 13.2 13.2 13 13 13 13 13 13
0 13.2 13.2 13.2 13 13 13 13 13 13
0 13.2 13.2 13.2 13 13 13 13 13 13
0 13.2 13.2 13.2 13 13 13 13 13 13
0 13.2 13.2 13.2 13 13 13 13 13 13
0 13.2 13.2 13.2 13 13 13 13 13 13
0 13.2 13.2 13.2 13 13 13 13 13 13
0 13.2 13.2 13.2 13 13 13 13 13 13
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0