Noisy Tappets
#11
Funny but you can use these lifters GM 17122490 if you change the pushrod cup from your harley lifters, the lifters are the same in bore size .842, the same internal valveing, the only difference is the oil feed hole in the pushrod cup HD=.100" and GM=.070".....The GM lifters are for the GenIII LS engines. I have the GM lifters in my Stage IV 103ci, 15000 miles with no problems, all I did was change the pushrod cups out.
#12
Something else to consider. When I had my indy put cams in my 2013, he told me he's finding the push rods too long. It takes all the adjustment out of the lifters. I'm remembering off the top of my head so the numbers may be wrong but I think he said my push rods were 20 thou too long and that the lifters only have 30 thou of adjustment. That reduced mine to only 10. Instead of adjustables, he takes the time to open the rocker box and use the stock rods and he modified them to the correct length. This guy is extremely meticulous and would have recommended changing the lifters while he was in there if he thouhgt they wouldn't last.
Hopefully someone here is more knowledgable on that then me and can confirm or deny what I just said.
Hopefully someone here is more knowledgable on that then me and can confirm or deny what I just said.
As far as lifters failing, I don't know about "A", "B", or "C" lifters, but I did have a lifter fail (collapse) at around 10k on my '09. I have a set of V-Thunder lifters in it now which are good lifters and very reasonably priced, but I also have a set of Gatermans that I will install in the future. The Gatermans have a unique design which hopefully will make them superior.
#13
[QUOTE=$tonecold;11311374] What I want to know is how is your Indy taking .020" off your stock pushrods? That was the part of your post I found to be concerning, since the pushrod ends are hardened and messing with them would not be advised.
QUOTE]
I asked him how he did it and he just smiled at me and told me he had a way. It all may have been a line of BS but I trust him and I'm happy to have solid pushrods. I'm sure adjustables are fine but I never have to worry about these coming loose. I didn't notice the valve train being noisy when I gave him the bike stock wiht a 1,000 miles on it, but either way, whatever he did, the bike runs smoother and quiter than any of the previous bikes I've had. He did a bunch of other little mods to it and I couldn't be happier with the results.
I just wanted to pass along what he told me. From the numbers you gave me, if the stock push rods were too long, or someone used adjustables and didn't get them just right, I could see why lifters would have issues.
QUOTE]
I asked him how he did it and he just smiled at me and told me he had a way. It all may have been a line of BS but I trust him and I'm happy to have solid pushrods. I'm sure adjustables are fine but I never have to worry about these coming loose. I didn't notice the valve train being noisy when I gave him the bike stock wiht a 1,000 miles on it, but either way, whatever he did, the bike runs smoother and quiter than any of the previous bikes I've had. He did a bunch of other little mods to it and I couldn't be happier with the results.
I just wanted to pass along what he told me. From the numbers you gave me, if the stock push rods were too long, or someone used adjustables and didn't get them just right, I could see why lifters would have issues.
#14
#16
#17
If it's not a mechanical issue try different oil weights or even putting in an additive can help.
Keep in mind the owner's manual has specific ranges of use and types of oil suggested based on riding conditions. Hot summer use is straight weight 50 on many rides.
I found adding Lucas Heavy Duty additive to the oil stopped the high frequency tapping and the motor sounds like it should.
Keep in mind the owner's manual has specific ranges of use and types of oil suggested based on riding conditions. Hot summer use is straight weight 50 on many rides.
I found adding Lucas Heavy Duty additive to the oil stopped the high frequency tapping and the motor sounds like it should.
#18
#19
[quote=EdwardK;11313748]
Well if I was looking at him face to face and he gave me that answer, I would call HS. .020" too long wouldn't make a difference, IMHO. If you are happy with the outcome though, that is what counts. Happy riding!
What I want to know is how is your Indy taking .020" off your stock pushrods? That was the part of your post I found to be concerning, since the pushrod ends are hardened and messing with them would not be advised.
QUOTE]
I asked him how he did it and he just smiled at me and told me he had a way. It all may have been a line of BS but I trust him and I'm happy to have solid pushrods. I'm sure adjustables are fine but I never have to worry about these coming loose. I didn't notice the valve train being noisy when I gave him the bike stock wiht a 1,000 miles on it, but either way, whatever he did, the bike runs smoother and quiter than any of the previous bikes I've had. He did a bunch of other little mods to it and I couldn't be happier with the results.
I just wanted to pass along what he told me. From the numbers you gave me, if the stock push rods were too long, or someone used adjustables and didn't get them just right, I could see why lifters would have issues.
QUOTE]
I asked him how he did it and he just smiled at me and told me he had a way. It all may have been a line of BS but I trust him and I'm happy to have solid pushrods. I'm sure adjustables are fine but I never have to worry about these coming loose. I didn't notice the valve train being noisy when I gave him the bike stock wiht a 1,000 miles on it, but either way, whatever he did, the bike runs smoother and quiter than any of the previous bikes I've had. He did a bunch of other little mods to it and I couldn't be happier with the results.
I just wanted to pass along what he told me. From the numbers you gave me, if the stock push rods were too long, or someone used adjustables and didn't get them just right, I could see why lifters would have issues.
#20